It Takes Two Months to Acclimatize, but British Climbers Summit Everest in Four Days with Xenon Gas, Sparking Fierce Debate

At Least Six Weeks of High-Altitude Acclimatization Required Before Climbing
Summit Reached in Just 4 Days and 18 Hours After Inhaling Gas

Intense debate has erupted over the appropriateness of drug use and climbing ethics after four British climbers inhaled xenon gas and completed their ascent of Everest in just four days. On May 28, Yonhap News, citing the New York Times, reported that four former British special forces members reached the summit of Everest in four days without undergoing the high-altitude acclimatization training considered essential for Everest climbers, sparking controversy.

The British expedition did not undergo an acclimatization period for such high-altitude conditions. They began their climb from Everest Base Camp on the afternoon of the 16th local time and reached the summit of Everest on the morning of the 21st. It took about 4 days and 18 hours. Among this, it was revealed that the British expedition inhaled xenon gas at a hospital in Germany two weeks before the climb. AP·Yonhap News

Typically, climbers attempting Everest or other high-altitude peaks spend at least six to eight weeks acclimatizing to the extreme conditions by staying at a base camp near Everest and repeatedly traveling between the base camp and higher altitudes. This is because, at altitudes above 8,000 meters?known as the "death zone"?the oxygen concentration is only one-third that of sea level.

However, the British expedition did not undergo such a high-altitude acclimatization period. They began their climb from Everest Base Camp on the afternoon of the 16th local time and reached the summit of Everest on the morning of the 21st. It took about 4 days and 18 hours. Among this, it was revealed that the British expedition inhaled xenon gas at a hospital in Germany two weeks before the climb. They stated that xenon gas played a significant role in helping them adapt to the high-altitude environment. Xenon gas, which is colorless and odorless, is claimed in the scientific community to increase the production of erythropoietin (EPO), thereby boosting red blood cell counts and improving oxygen-carrying capacity. However, academic circles have pointed out that the effects of xenon gas have not been proven, and there are warnings that self-administration or overdose could be fatal.

The International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation also warned in January that while there is no evidence that inhaling xenon enhances climbing performance, "inappropriate use can be dangerous." Against this backdrop, the ultra-fast Everest ascent using xenon has fueled internal controversy among mountaineers and provoked the Nepalese government. Himal Gautam, Director General of the Nepal Tourism Board, stated, "Using xenon is contrary to climbing ethics," adding that it could harm Nepal's tourism industry by reducing climbers' stay times and negatively impacting Sherpas (climbing guides).

The Nepalese government has also launched an investigation into the British climbers' use of xenon. Huw Montgomery, a climber who has studied human responses to hypoxic conditions, emphasized that the use of xenon raises fundamental questions about the purpose of climbing Everest, saying, "Is it really a good idea to get whatever you want, whenever you want, as quickly as you want?" Despite the controversy, climber Lukas Furtenbach, who assisted the British climbers with their use of xenon, is reportedly planning to offer two-week Everest climbing trips using xenon starting next year, according to the New York Times.