[Jo Yongjun's Travel Journey] Seomjingang Spring Flower Road: Red, White, and Yellow Flower Festival

A World of Red Camellias Blooming on Odongdo, the Camellia Island
Legends and Healing Walks Among the Camellia Forests
Spectacular Coastal Scenery and Night Views in Yeosu
The Seomjingang Maehwa Village Festival in Full Bloom
Dancing Plum Blossoms and the Charm of Cheongmaesil Farm
A Spring Drive Along the Seomjingang, From Maehwa to Cornelian Cherry Blossoms

Spring flowers have begun. Cheongmaehwa in full bloom at Gwangyang Maehwa Village and camellias at Odongdo, Yeosu

Red plum blossoms in full bloom at the entrance of Gwangyang Maehwa Village

Camellias blooming on Odongdo in Yeosu, known as Dongbaek Island

Yeosu Odongdo, Hallyeohaesang National Park

The mist rising from the Seomjin River is covering the Gwangyang Maehwa Village.

The nature that had been dormant throughout the winter has begun to awaken. The frozen ground is thawing, and buds have sprouted on the once bare branches. The river sparkles under the warm sunlight. The breeze carries unmistakable scents of spring. It seems everyone is whispering about spring. In the southern regions, spring is already ripening. Spring in the southern provinces begins with flowers. The news of blooming spring flowers pouring in from here and there stirs the heart already. Camellias and plum blossoms emit their fragrance, and cornelian cherries have formed flower buds. Crossing the sea, rivers, and mountains, we set off to find the spring that has come to us in Yeosu and Gwangyang.

#Red Camellia World Blooming on Odongdo, the Camellia Island

Yeosu boasts many tourist spots with outstanding scenery, including Hallyeohaesang National Park and Dadohaehaesang National Park, pristine waters, and numerous large and small islands. But at this time of early spring, the red camellias of Odongdo cannot be missed. True to its nickname 'Camellia Island,' camellias create a magnificent spectacle from late winter through March, and the coastal walking paths combined with sea views make it a top healing travel destination.

Camellias viewed from Odongdo on Dongbaek Island

Dongbaek Train

From afar, Odongdo looks like an odong (Paulownia) leaf, and the island was named Odongdo because paulownia trees are densely planted there. The reason Odongdo became famous as it is now is thanks to the approximately 5,000 camellia trees growing widely across the island. The largest cluster is formed along the walking path behind the botanical garden. As you leisurely explore the island, bright red camellia petals peek out here and there.

Odongdo is easily accessible either on foot or by taking the Camellia Train. The entire island is well-equipped with walking trails, making it perfect for trekking and healing. From the observatory, you can enjoy breathtaking views of the blue South Sea and the waters in front of Yeosu.

Above all, the greatest charm is the dense camellia forest. In March, the camellias bloom in full glory, creating a spectacle like a red carpet spread out. Walking along the cozy paths winding through the camellia flowers is truly enchanting.

Tourists enjoying the Hallyeohaesang from the observatory

There are various legends surrounding the camellias of Odongdo. The most famous is the story related to a woman who tried to uphold her chastity and a fisherman. Long ago, a beautiful woman and a fisherman lived on the island. One day, when the woman was chased by bandits, she threw herself off a cliff to protect her virtue. Her husband, who returned late and learned of this, made a sincere grave at the foot of Odongdo. From that winter onward, camellias began to bloom around the grave. Camellias, fighting the cold throughout winter, steadfastly reveal their splendid beauty and are often symbolized as a sign of chastity.

At the lighthouse located at the summit of Odongdo, you can get a panoramic view of the large and small islands of Yeosu’s front sea and Hallyeohaesang National Park. Inside the lighthouse, there are marine-related exhibits, making it a good place to visit with children. Visiting at sunset allows you to enjoy the beautiful scenery where the red-tinted sky and sea of the South Sea blend harmoniously.

The red camellias are beautiful, as if lanterns have been gently lit.

The sunset is falling over the sea in front of Yeosu.

Descending to the coast, you will find natural scenery where bizarre rocks and sea caves harmonize. Especially ‘Yonggul’ (Dragon Cave) is a cave formed over many years by the erosion of seawater, and the sight of waves crashing is spectacular. The coastal road leading to Yonggul lets you feel the grandeur of nature while enjoying the sea breeze filled with the scent of spring.

No trip to Yeosu is complete without a night view tour. Enjoy the night view of Dolsan Bridge and try delicious food at the romantic street food stalls by the seaside. The romantic street food stalls near the Marine Park offer fresh seafood dishes along with views of Yeosu’s night sea. Especially popular among travelers are dishes like Samhap (abalone, pork belly, kimchi), flatfish sashimi, and seafood ramen. Enjoy the representative flavors of Yeosu while gazing at the sparkling lights over the sea. Additionally, there are attractions such as the marine cable car, Geobukseon Bridge, and Hyangiram Hermitage, a famous sunrise spot at the tip of Dolsan Island.

#Colorful Flower Palace: Seomjingang Maehwa Village Festival in Full Bloom

Spring news is abundant in Maehwa Village along the Seomjingang River in Gwangyang. This area along the Seomjingang is a famous spot where flowers that announce the arrival of spring bloom first in a relay every year. The blue waves of the Seomjingang and the white plum blossoms dance lightly in the air, then, lost in their own beauty, scatter white petals.

Red plum blossoms in full bloom at Gwangyang Maehwa Village

Red plum blossoms blooming in Gwangyang Maehwa Village, where the Plum Blossom Festival has begun

The Gwangyang Maehwa Festival has also begun. From the 7th to the 16th, the festival was held in Maehwa Village under the theme ‘Korea’s Spring Opens in Gwangyang Maehwa Village.’ Visitors can explore Maehwa Village, included in Korea’s Top 100 Tourist Attractions, and enjoy various unique experiences such as Seomjingang hot air balloon rides and yachting. During the festival, traffic congestion along the Seomjingang becomes severe. While there is concern that visitors might tire from the crowds and traffic before enjoying the vibrant spring flowers, it is hoped that everyone will embrace the long-awaited spring with a somewhat relaxed heart and fill their hearts with it.

Upon entering Maehwa Village, plum blossoms shine brilliantly on sunlit branches. Standing in a village full of white and red plum blossoms, anyone becomes a poet or artist. The proud and pure aura felt from the fully bloomed plum blossoms is truly the best.

Among them, the Cheongmaesil Farm, cultivated by Ms. Hong Ssang-ri, a master of plums, over 50 years on 120,000 pyeong (approximately 396,000 square meters) of the slopes of Baegunsan Mountain, boasts beautiful and splendid plum blossoms. From the entrance marked by signposts, blue plum blossoms, white plum blossoms, and red plum blossoms have overcome the harsh cold snap and are bursting into delicate flower buds.

Cheongmaehwa Soaked Thoroughly by Rain

Tourists walking through Cheongmaesil Farm

From the yard where about 3,000 jangdok (traditional Korean earthenware pots) are gathered, you can see the Seomjingang River at a glance. In the pots, plum soybean paste and plum chili paste are maturing under the early spring sun.

As the scholar Yi Hwang once sang in his poem, plum blossoms viewed at night are also exquisite. When the sun sets and the sky darkens, the white plum blossoms glow brightly under the moonlight. Then, the Seomjingang’s waterway is dyed in the white plum blossom light, creating an indescribable enchantment.

The bamboo forest path behind Cheongmaesil Farm was the filming location for the movie 'Chwi-hwa-seon.' The rustling sound of bamboo leaves in the spring breeze of Seomjingang refreshes the mind and body.

After enjoying the Maehwa Festival, head along the Seomjingang to Gurye. Before the remaining snow on Manbokdae of Jirisan Mountain melts, tiny bright yellow buds as small as beans begin to burst open. Around mid-March, about 30 villages in Sandong-myeon, Gurye, are in full bloom with cornelian cherry flowers, painting the area as if brushed with yellow paint. If timed well, you can also see late-blooming plum blossoms and early-blooming cherry blossoms along the Seomjingang River.

Yeosu and Gwangyang = Written and photographed by Jo Yong-jun, travel journalist

By mid to late March, Maehwa Village transforms into a colorful spring flower paradise.

TIP= It is important to time your visit well for spring flower festivals. Blooming periods vary depending on the weather, making it difficult to predict. If you rely solely on the festival dates, you might return without seeing the flowers. Generally, it is wise to visit a bit later, as spring flowers tend to bloom more fully over time. Checking the local blooming status before departure is also a good strategy. Especially during the festival period, be aware that traffic congestion around the Seomjingang area can become severe.