[Agyeong Wine Cellar] The 'King of Barolo' Brewed on the 'Jebikkot Hill' in Italy

Italy's 'G.D. Vajra': Producer of Piedmont's Finest Barolo
'Albe,' a Postmodernist Expression
'Kye'... A Tribute to Reviving the Forgotten Freisa Variety

Editor's NoteNo two wines under the sky are the same. Even when grapes grown in the same land each year are vinified and aged using the same methods, the results differ every time. Wine is a 'drink of chance' created by the harmony of humans and nature. Wines that leave behind only a single intense memory and then quietly disappear all carry fascinating stories. 'Akyung Wine Cellar' shares one by one the stories of wines that are crafted and matured according to their unique circumstances.

"It's forbidden to forbid!"

In May 1968, the world was filled with the fervor of the '68 Movement,' which called for change in the face of various social issues and injustices such as racism, sexism, anti-war protests, and environmental pollution. The wave of the '68 Movement' spread beyond France to Italy, and the city center of Turin, the capital of the Piedmont region, was overflowing with student protesters passionate about social transformation.

Fifteen-year-old Aldo Vaira was also in the midst of the protesters.

The massive social movement of 1968 ended in apparent short-term failure as the protesters' demands were not fully realized by the government. However, it is remembered as a successful revolution in the end, as it laid the ideological and spiritual foundation for various social reforms and brought about comprehensive political, social, and cultural changes in the late 20th century.

Founder of 'G.D. Vajra', Aldo Vaira

Aldo's involvement in the '68 Movement also ended quietly. Yet, his desire for change was expressed in a different direction, ultimately leading to innovation.

Aldo, founder of a winery in the Barolo region known as the 'King of Italian Wine,' was sent to Barolo, a small village in Piedmont where his grandparents lived, by his father, who was a Ministry of Defense official, during the '68 Movement. This forced exile was akin to banishment for a city boy, but the story took an unexpected turn. Spending the summer on his grandparents' farm, Aldo was deeply impressed by the beauty and vitality of nature and decided to choose a life among vineyards and fields.

In the 1970s, young people in rural Italy were leaving for the cities. Aldo's decision to return to farming went against the trend, and his family’s concerns were natural. However, Aldo was resolute. In 1971, he became active in a group called 'Suolo e Salute' (Soil and Health), which advocated organic and natural farming methods that were rare at the time, and he resolved to be a pioneer in introducing eco-friendly farming practices in the Barolo region.

A view of the 'Bricco delle Viole' vineyard by G.D. Vajra.

The following year, in 1972, Aldo started operating a winery under the name 'G.D. Vaira,' named after his father Giuseppe Domenico Vaira. The beginning was not smooth. 1972 was a memorable year for both Aldo and Barolo. The vintage that year was historically poor, and the young winemaker’s first vintage remained a painful memory. He had to be content with barely managing to produce wine.

Most notably, the brand name on the wine label was mistakenly printed as 'G.D. Vajra' instead of 'G.D. Vaira.' However, having already spent too much, Aldo could not correct it and released the wine as is. Interestingly, Aldo never corrected this typo afterward. He decided to turn this accidental mistake into a new innovation and embraced the misspelled 'G.D. Vajra,' which has been the official name for over 50 years.

Italy’s Pride: Nebbiolo

The representative grape variety of the Piedmont region in Italy, 'Nebbiolo'

Barolo wine from the Piedmont region, where G.D. Vajra is based, is commonly counted among Italy’s three great wines alongside Chianti Classico from Toscana and Amarone from Veneto.

Piedmont, meaning 'foot of the mountain,' is located at the foothills of the Alps in northwest Italy. Because hills and mountains surround Piedmont’s vineyards, less than 5% of the vineyards are officially classified as flat land. This results in vineyards having varying orientations, site conditions, and altitudes, making the selection of suitable grape varieties crucial.

Piedmont shares many similarities with Burgundy in France. Both regions are characterized by small-scale wineries and meticulous management, and their wine traditions were shaped under the strong influence of the Catholic Benedictine order for centuries. Most importantly, both regions share the belief that their wines are the product of a single grape variety optimized for their terroir. Burgundy chose Pinot Noir, while Piedmont selected Nebbiolo, and both continue to produce great wines. There is no dispute that these two varieties represent the delicacy and elegance of French and Italian wines, respectively.

Foggy view of GD Byra's 'Bricco delle Viole' vineyard.

Nebbiolo derives its name from the Italian word 'nebbia,' meaning fog. One theory is that the white bloom found abundantly on ripe Nebbiolo skins resembles fog, hence the name. Another story attributes the name to the autumn fog that blankets the Piedmont region during harvest. Nebbiolo is an early budding but late-ripening variety, requiring waiting until late October to fully mature. Because of this, Piedmont growers prefer to plant Nebbiolo on hillsides that receive as much sunlight as possible, especially south-west facing vineyards.

Nebbiolo accounts for only about 15% of Piedmont’s total grape production and is rarely successfully cultivated outside Piedmont to produce the high-quality grapes needed for the region’s seductive wines. This makes Nebbiolo a noble grape variety and a source of pride for Italy. Wines made from Nebbiolo display a bright ruby color and, despite their pale hue, have strong tannins in youth that gradually develop elegant aromas and flavors of roses and tar with age.

The most renowned area for Nebbiolo is Barolo. Barolo wines are made from 100% Nebbiolo grapes, and Barolo is both the name of the village and the wine produced there. Barolo vineyards are mainly located on south-facing slopes at altitudes between 300 and 500 meters. The elevation allows grapes to ripen slowly, developing aromas of cherry, herbs, and roses. By regulation, Barolo must be aged for at least 38 months after vinification, including a mandatory 18 months in oak barrels.

'G.D. Vajra Barolo DOCG Bricco delle Viole'

'Violet Hill' Barolo

The flagship wine of G.D. Vajra is also a Barolo made from Nebbiolo. Among them, 'G.D. Vajra Barolo DOCG Bricco delle Viole' is the winery’s signature wine.

In Piedmont’s top vineyards, the term 'Bricco' is often used, meaning 'hilltop with good sun exposure' in the local dialect. 'Bricco delle Viole,' meaning 'hill of violets,' is located at the western edge of the Barolo village, spanning elevations from 400 to 480 meters, making it the highest and closest vineyard to the Alps among G.D. Vajra’s holdings. This vineyard was where Aldo Vaira first began grape cultivation. He describes it as “the vineyard that taught us patience and helped establish the framework of G.D. Vajra’s winemaking style,” showing his special affection for the site.

Bricco delle Viole’s cool altitude provides an environment where grapes can ripen slowly, producing Nebbiolo with a very delicate character. Barolo Bricco delle Viole offers aromas of ripe plum and black cherry with a slight mineral touch, accompanied by firm and powerful tannins. It is regarded as a strong and masculine style among G.D. Vajra’s Barolos. The perfectly ripe Nebbiolo flavors are well balanced by acidity, leaving a long finish. Annual production is limited to about 12,000 bottles.

'G.D. Vajra Barolo DOCG Albe' is considered a more approachable Barolo. Among G.D. Vajra’s Barolos, it has the most elegant style suitable for drinking at a younger age. Barolo Albe is aged in large Slovenian oak barrels following traditional Piedmontese methods, crafted with a focus on fresh acidity, floral aromas, and a lively balance of tannins and fruit flavors. It is rich in fruit aroma, smooth yet structured, with a long finish, and can age for 10 to 20 years depending on the vintage.

Notably, the 2020 vintage of Barolo Albe ranked 9th in Wine Spectator’s 'Top 100 Wines of the Year' last year. This is the second-highest ranking among Italian wines after the 3rd place Antinori Toscana Tignanello 2021, and the highest among Barolos.

'G.D. Vajra Barolo DOCG Albe'

DNA of Innovation... In Search of Lost Varieties

Aldo, who dreamed of innovation, did not focus solely on Barolo wine made from Nebbiolo. Piedmont producers mainly planted Nebbiolo, a premium variety, in vineyards with excellent terroir to maximize added value. However, Aldo cultivated indigenous varieties such as Dolcetto and Barbera in vineyards certified as 'MGA (Menzioni Geografiche Aggiuntive),' which denote small, high-quality vineyard plots, and improved the quality of wines made from these varieties. Additionally, G.D. Vajra was the first in Piedmont to plant the German white grape variety Riesling, continuing various experimental efforts.

G.D. Vajra is also famous for reviving the Freisa grape variety. Freisa is an old indigenous variety of Piedmont that was virtually forgotten before G.D. Vajra took an interest. Recent research has shown that Freisa is genetically the closest variety to Nebbiolo. G.D. Vajra studied and cultivated Freisa over a long period, producing a high-quality wine called 'G.D. Vajra Freisa Langhe DOC Kye.'

'GD Vajra Freisa Langhe DOC Kye'

The wine’s name 'Kye' is a pun based on the Italian phrase 'Chi ??' meaning 'Who is it?' It is a playful nod to the rediscovered indigenous Freisa variety and expresses the winery’s commitment to restoring the grape and embodying regional identity through this wine. Made from 100% Freisa, Kye shows a dark garnet color unlike Barolo, with fresh cherry and herbal aromas and a slight earthy note. On the palate, it impresses with a delicate bouquet and silky smooth tannins reminiscent of a well-made Nebbiolo wine. Production is limited to about 6,000 bottles annually, adding to its rarity.

Aldo’s aging winery now looks toward the next generation. All three of his children have inherited their parents’ legacy and continue the tradition.

Aldo says,

"Gustav Mahler, the composer from the Austro-Hungarian Empire, said, 'Tradition is not the preservation of ashes but the passing on of fire.' Our winery has always been built on new dreams, research, discovery, sacrifice, life, and joy, and it will continue to be so."

A panoramic view of the vineyards in the Langhe village of G.D. Vajra.