[Why&Next] Goose Down Prices Driven by Chinese Demand... 'Padding's Betrayal' in Korea

E-Land 'Who.A.U' and Musinsa Brands
Use Feathers and Duck Down Instead of Expensive Goose Down
No Legal Regulation on Mixing Rate, "Inspection Procedures Need Review"

The controversy over 'false labeling of padding filling materials' is shaking the fashion industry at the beginning of the year. Cases of padding products, essential items for winter, being filled with goose feathers or duck feathers instead of goose down, and then sold disguised as expensive 'goose down,' have been repeatedly uncovered.

Fashion platforms selling products from small and medium designer brands, as well as major fashion companies, have apologized, calling it a "failure to undergo thorough inspection processes." However, as the issue of insufficient filling material content recurs, voices are emerging that related regulations are necessary to prevent loss of consumer trust.

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Duck feathers disguised as expensive goose feathers... fashion companies repeatedly caught

According to the fashion industry on the 12th, E-Land World recently announced a full recall of its brand 'Who.A.U' goose down padding (product number: WHJDE4V37U) because the filling material did not meet the declared mixing ratio standards. Filling material is the material used in padding to retain temperature and provide cushioning, and the product had been declared to contain 80% goose feathers (goose down) and 20% duck feathers (duck down).

However, in reality, 30% goose feathers and 70% duck feathers were used. To label a product as 'down,' the filling material must contain at least 75% down. Goose down must contain at least 75% goose down. Goose feathers are lighter and warmer than duck feathers and are considered a premium material. Down is the soft and fine part without quills and is more expensive than feathers.

Jo Dong-joo, CEO of E-Land World, stated in an apology, "As soon as the fact was confirmed, we stopped selling the product and are currently recalling all products in distribution," adding, "We will improve the overall quality management system to prevent recurrence." Currently, E-Land World is conducting a full investigation of other brands' products, including those under the Who.A.U brand.

Earlier, the fashion platform Musinsa also faced difficulties due to deception in filling material mixing ratios. Although it operates as a consignment seller providing the platform, it could not avoid sharp criticism from consumers who trusted the platform and made purchases.

The brand 'Raupe Store,' which is listed on Musinsa, was found to have falsely stated the down mixing ratio of its duck down Arctic hooded padding product. This brand had also received investment from Musinsa. After customer complaints were raised, the brand submitted test reports from an external inspection agency claiming no issues, but upon inspecting products delivered to customers, it was revealed that "filling materials whose composition could not be determined" were used, leading to the brand's removal from the platform.

Besides falsifying padding filling material mixing ratios, the brand had previous cases of design plagiarism and use of counterfeit accessories. Additionally, similar issues occurred with products sold by other listed brands 'Peple' and 'Oro,' resulting in consumer refunds and other measures.

A Musinsa representative said, "After this incident, we required all brands to submit test reports for their products," adding, "In the future, to sell products on Musinsa, brands will be required to provide test reports to consumers as a mandatory measure."

China's sports boom increases padding demand... goose down prices soar, quality verification insufficient

Fashion companies typically secure materials a year in advance to make winter padding. In 2023, the time to purchase materials for this winter's padding, a sports and camping boom in China increased demand for goose down, causing prices of goose down to soar. According to the fashion industry, the price of goose down rose from around $70 at the end of 2023 to over $100 at the beginning of last year, and climbed to the $120 range by August.

Because of this, it appears that cheaper duck feathers were used instead of goose feathers to meet padding manufacturing costs, followed by deception.

In fact, E-Land World explained that the cause of this incident was trusting only the quality assurance of its overseas local partner (Myanmar) and neglecting its own verification procedures. When the local partner manufactures products, they conduct their own sample inspections to ensure that external materials and filling material labeling are clearly followed, but inspections for this product were negligently conducted.

The problem is that this is not the first case of insufficient filling material content. The Korea Consumer Agency announced in 2013 that, after comparing the quality of SPA (manufacturing and distribution integrated) brand down jumpers, the down content of brands such as Misso, Mango, and Zara was 3-10 percentage points lower than stated.

Filling material mixing ratio labeling falls into regulatory blind spots... soaring padding prices raise concerns over repeated consumer harm

The fashion industry points out that consumer deception cases continue because filling material mixing ratio labeling is not mandated. Under current regulations, clothing materials must receive national standard certification, but there is no certification obligation for internal filling materials.

In e-commerce, when product information is disclosed, the Fair Trade Commission requires information on fiber content materials, but information on the composition of filling materials is not mandatory. Only functional clothing is required to submit test reports compulsorily. This is an area of internal control.

Some argue that since the quality of padding products is directly linked to consumer trust, legal regulations on filling material mixing ratio labeling are necessary. Some major fashion companies strengthen their own verification and quality control, but since most fashion companies are small and medium-sized enterprises, the possibility of false mixing ratio labeling remains.

Moreover, the soaring price of goose down is expected to continue. Premium padding demand in the Chinese market shows no signs of decline, and supply is unstable as poultry farming, including chickens and ducks, decreases in China, the world's largest goose down producer. This means consumer harm from false filling material mixing ratio labeling could worsen. A fashion industry insider explained, "Filling material mixing ratio certification is not mandatory," adding, "However, since deceiving consumers is a matter of trust, there is also an opinion that companies should voluntarily request certification from testing agencies."