Heinz Launches 'Canned Carbonara' in the UK
Italy, the Pasta Homeland, Expresses Displeasure
Tourism Minister and Famous Chefs Call It a "Horrible Idea"
News of the launch of a 'canned carbonara' that can be easily eaten in the UK has sparked displeased reactions from Italy, the birthplace of pasta. On the 1st (local time), the British daily The Times reported, "Heinz, the largest food company in the US, will sell canned carbonara in the UK from mid-month, targeting Generation Z who enjoy a light meal, at 2 pounds (about 3,500 won) per can." The product photo shows a yellow can labeled ‘Spaghetti Carbonara, cream sauce pasta with pancetta (unsmoked Italian bacon).’
However, this news has caused displeasure in Italy, a country with a strong pride in its cuisine. Italy even designates April 6th as 'Carbonara Day' every year, reflecting its deep affection and pride, which makes the backlash against canned carbonara even stronger. Daniela Santanch?, Italy’s Minister of Tourism, posted on her X (formerly Twitter) on the 30th of last month, capturing the article about the canned carbonara launch and stating, "Italians are serious about food." She then quoted a line from the 1954 film Roman Holiday, criticizing canned carbonara by saying it "should be given to the rats." The film is known as a satire on the Americanization of Italy.
Famous Italian chefs also added their voices. Gianfranco Vissani, chef of the Michelin-starred restaurant Casa Vissani, told Adnkronos news agency, "This kind of product destroys Italian culture and cuisine," calling canned carbonara "a shameful product." Christina Bowerman, chef of the Michelin-starred restaurant Glass Hostaria in Rome, said, "It’s the illegitimate child of our cuisine," adding, "(Canned carbonara) is a terrible idea, and I fear consumers will try this canned version before the original and be disappointed."
Alessandro Pipero, chef of another Michelin-starred restaurant Pipero in Rome, told The Times, "I like modernity and have no intention of opposing it, but how can you put carbonara in a can like cat food?"
Carbonara is a pasta dish originating from Rome, Italy’s capital, traditionally made only with guanciale (cured pork cheek), egg yolks, pecorino (sheep’s milk cheese), and pepper. However, in Korea, a version of carbonara popularized includes fresh cream, milk, Parmesan cheese, and bacon.
In Italy, where the culture of personal cafes in the form of espresso bars is well developed, the American coffee franchise Starbucks faced fierce opposition when it opened its first store in Milan in 2018. At that time, citizens expressed strong protests, including setting fire to trees planted in Piazza del Duomo, but it is now considered to have settled well.
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