Japan also Divided into 'Kkodeulpa' vs 'Peojinpa'... Diverse Ramen Worlds [Nichiyoubi Nichi Culture]

Appeared in the Meiji Era... Various Combinations Possible with Broth Ingredients and Noodle Types
Strong Image as Commoners' Food... 'Shaken' by Rising Prices Impact

It seems that many Japanese ramen shops have recently started to appear in South Korea as well. In the past, it seemed like only Tonkotsu ramen was introduced, but recently, various types of ramen, including chicken broth, have begun to be introduced.

The common debate in our country between chewy noodles and soft noodles. It is said that in Japan, many places also ask about the firmness of the noodles when ordering ramen.
[Image source=Getty Images]

In fact, if you look closely at Japanese ramen, there are really many varieties. Besides the commonly known Tonkotsu (pork bone), Shoyu (soy sauce), and Miso (Japanese soybean paste), there are also original branches. The shape of the noodles varies greatly depending on the region. Did you know that, just like in Korea, there are factions that prefer firm noodles and others that prefer softer noodles? Today, we will share some interesting stories about Japanese ramen that are more fun to know while eating.

Japanese Ramen Started in Chinatown

The appearance of a Japanese ramen shop. [Image source=Management Support homepage]

First of all, how was ramen created? The origin of ramen dates back to the Meiji era. The port city of Yokohama had a Chinatown even at that time. It is said that a chef from this Chinatown first made and served noodle dishes at a Chinese restaurant in Asakusa, Tokyo, in 1910. After that, ramen gradually evolved into many versions in Japan and has now established itself as a unique Japanese dish. In short, it can be said that ramen was created on Japanese soil by a Chinese chef.

Tonkotsu, Shoyu, and Miso Ramen Are Not the End... There Is Also Fish Broth

Ramen consists of three components: soup (called "supu"), noodles, and toppings, but the most important part is the broth. Japanese ramen is first classified by the type of soup, which is made up of broth and seasoning. When seasonings like soy sauce or miso are mixed into the broth, the soup is completed.

The most basic type is Shoyu ramen, which uses soy sauce. Since soy sauce is the most commonly used seasoning in Japanese cuisine, it is the most familiar taste to Japanese people. It started in Tokyo in 1910 and has a history of over 100 years.

There is also Shio ramen, which uses salt seasoning to bring out the original flavor of the broth. The broth is made by boiling chicken or pork bones and seasoning it with salt, and the broth is clear. Because it does not use strong seasonings like soy sauce or miso, it is said to be a ramen that is really difficult to make with deep flavor.

Soy sauce-based shoyu ramen. (Photo by Koku Ramen)

Then there is Miso ramen, which uses Japanese soybean paste. This is also a steady seller. It is said to have started in Sapporo in 1955. Since miso is good at masking the smell of meat, it is often mixed with broth made from pork bones. Also, because the broth seasoning itself is strong and the flavor is rich, even if a lot of vegetables are added, the taste does not weaken. Therefore, Miso ramen often has generous toppings like corn, bean sprouts, and cabbage. Miso ramen sometimes uses spicy miso with chili peppers to create a spicy and sharp flavor, making it a ramen that surprisingly has few dislikes.

Finally, there is Tonkotsu ramen, familiar to Koreans. It is characterized by a cloudy and milky broth, similar to seolleongtang (Korean ox bone soup). Because it is made by boiling pork bones, collagen and other substances are extracted, and in well-prepared places, the broth feels sticky when it touches the mouth. However, since it is made by boiling pork bones, it has a certain smell, which causes some people to like it and others not.

Besides these, there are various other types. Recently, a type called Toripaitan ramen has been introduced in Korea. Instead of pork bones, chicken bones are boiled to make the broth. Although it is not as rich as pork bone broth, it has umami and is popular. To me, it tasted somewhat similar to Samgyetang (Korean ginseng chicken soup) broth. There is also Gyokai (魚介) ramen, which uses seafood such as fish, clams, and crustaceans to make the broth. It has a high entry barrier but has a solid fan base.

Miso ramen with a doenjang base. (Photo by Koku Ramen)

The noodles that go well with various soups are also different. The thin noodles commonly known in ramen are called Hosomen. However, there are also curly and thick noodles called Chijiremen. These are often used in Miso ramen. I mentioned that the hometown of Miso ramen is Sapporo. In the cold winter, laborers doing hard work wanted to eat ramen as a late-night snack but had difficulty using chopsticks because their hands were weak. So, the noodles were made curly to prevent slipping, which is said to be the original reason.

Just Like Dividing Pyeongyang Naengmyeon Factions... Japan Also Has OO Styles

In Korea, when eating Pyeongyang naengmyeon, people distinguish the origin. Pyeongyang naengmyeon enthusiasts classify factions such as 'Uraeok style,' 'Jangchungdong style,' and 'Uijeongbu style.' Japan has a similar ramen culture. Factions are named after the original ramen shops. The Jiro style ramen, recently introduced in animations, is named after the shop 'Ramen Jiro.' The noodles used are almost as thick as udon, and the dish is piled high with bean sprouts, focusing on quantity. It is characterized by optional toppings like garlic and fat. Shops serving this style are all classified as 'Jiro-kei.'

The original ramen of Jiro, the pioneer of 'Jiro-style ramen'. (Photo by Tabelog)

Besides that, there is the 'Iekei' ramen derived from the Yokohama ramen shop 'Yoshimuraya (吉村家),' named after the Japanese character for 'house' (家). There is also the 'Taishoken-kei' derived from the famous ramen shop Taishoken in Higashi-Ikebukuro, Tokyo. Taishoken is said to be the origin of Tsukemen, where noodles are dipped into a rich and salty broth. Even within the Taishoken-kei, there is a branch known for seafood broth ramen. Although the shop name is the same, it is located in the Eifukucho area and is classified as the Taishoken-kei Eifukucho faction.

Japan Also Has Firm Noodles vs. Soft Noodles Debate

Also, when ordering ramen in Japan, they often ask about the firmness of the noodles. Which do you prefer, firm and slightly undercooked noodles or soft noodles? When I cook ramen, I don't really want to eat with people who like soft noodles, but surprisingly, some people prefer very soft noodles. They say that firm noodles smell like flour and have an unpleasant texture. Japan is the same.

On Yahoo Japan's Q&A section, similar to Korea's Naver Knowledge iN, you can easily find this debate. There was a question: "I'm really curious, can't you order soft noodles at ramen shops? Are there really people who eat that way? What taste do they enjoy?" The answer was, "If you want undercooked noodles, why don't you eat snacks? Noodles need to be cooked well to bring out their unique umami." Although there were no comments, the number of likes quietly increased.

In Japan, many ramen shops ask about the noodle firmness when ordering. The firmness is called 'katasa (硬さ)' in Japanese. Undercooked noodles are called 'katame (かため),' using 'katai,' meaning hard, and soft noodles are called 'yawarakame (やわらかめ),' meaning soft. There is also 'barikata (ばりかた),' which is even less cooked than katame. Many of my Japanese friends who prefer firm noodles often order barikata. Try it out. If you go to Ichiran, check 'chokata (超かた)' for extra firm noodles.

Even Affordable Ramen Is Affected by Rising Prices

Originally, ramen in Japan was strongly perceived as an affordable food. There is a psychological barrier called the '1000 yen wall,' meaning ramen prices should not exceed 1000 yen (about 9000 won). However, due to the recent continuous depreciation of the yen and rising prices, food ingredients, water, gas, and labor costs have surged. But since ramen is perceived as an affordable food, prices cannot be raised recklessly, and as a result, many ramen shops are going bankrupt these days. According to a survey by the private credit research agency Tokyo Shoko Research, the number of ramen shops that went bankrupt from January to December last year increased by 114.2% compared to the previous year, totaling 45 shops, the largest scale since 2009.