[Korea-Japan Comparison]⑥ Hot Places for Seniors with Nowhere to Go... Loneliness Gathers in Jongno [Report]

[The Era of 10 Million Elderly, Learning from Japan]⑥
To Overcome Boredom, They Come from Far Away Since Morning
Most Often to Play Janggi Matches or Head to Movie Theaters and Collatecs
Many Have Nowhere Else to Go

Near Jongno 3-ga Station in Seoul, a man and a woman are moving their bodies to the rhythm inside Gukilgwan. (Photo by Jae-hyun Park)

On the 20th, near Exit 4 of Jongno 3-ga Station, where subway lines 1, 3, and 5 intersect, Tapgol Park was filled with elderly people who had come from afar since early morning. By noon, a line of seniors was waiting in front of the ‘Wongaksa Senior Free Meal Center’ near Tapgol Park for free meals. Despite the hot weather, there were quite a few elderly people playing Janggi (Korean chess) around the outskirts of Tapgol Park.

Near Tapgol Park at Jongno 3-ga Station, there are inexpensive restaurants, barbershops, tea houses, and movie theaters. Seniors with light pockets eat lunch at small, shabby gukbap (soup with rice) restaurants costing about 3,000 won per meal, then spend time at nearby affordable barbershops, movie theaters, colletecs (Korean dance halls), or welfare centers before heading home around sunset.

Mr. A (79), whom I met at the Silver Cinema on the 4th floor of Nakwon Arcade, was standing in front of the ticket booth, staring at the posters for a long time. To come to Jongno, he had to take the subway for an hour and a half from Gimpo, Gyeonggi Province, where he lives, but since there are no places for elderly people in his neighborhood, he often comes to Jongno. Mr. A has loved movies since his youth. He has seen many of the films posted at the Silver Cinema ticket booth multiple times over the years. On that day, the cinema was showing ‘Prince of the West,’ released in 1944. Mr. A, who enjoys Western movies, came to the cinema for a rewatch.

"I like singing, play the guitar well, and handle musical instruments well. Because I’m lonely, I learned all of them."

Entrance of Silver Cinema and Nangman Theater located at the former Hollywood Theater site in Nakwon Arcade, Jongno-gu, Seoul. Photo by Huh Younghan younghan@

Living with his family, Mr. A leaves home after breakfast. After arriving at the station and having a simple lunch, the first place he visits is the Silver Cinema. He spends time watching movies there, then heads to Gyeongdong Market in Dongdaemun-gu, Seoul. At Gyeongdong Market, there is a colletec where you can dance and listen to songs for just 1,000 won. Around 5 to 6 p.m., he leaves there, takes the subway, and by the time he gets home, the sun has set.

After leaving Nakwon Arcade and taking a few steps, I saw elderly people playing Janggi. They were sitting in a circle around a Janggi board that showed the marks of time, playing a match. There is an old coffee vending machine here, and the seniors play Janggi matches with a cup of coffee as the prize. Most of them are elderly men. Since they see each other so often, they know each other’s well-being without even asking. While watching the Janggi game, Mr. B approached me saying, "I’m interested in Janggi." He takes care of the well-being of the seniors who come here.

Elderly people are playing Janggi on the roadside behind Tapgol Park in Jongno-gu, Seoul. Photo by Younghan Heo younghan@

"When someone who used to come every day doesn’t show up, that’s when we know they’ve passed away. Many people solve their lunch cheaply nearby, spend time playing Janggi here, and return home around sunset."

‘Songhae-gil’ runs from Yuk-ui-jeon Building in Jongno 2-ga to in front of Nakwon Arcade. Mr. C (86), who was sitting in front of a nearby barbershop, comes to Jongno around 9 a.m. from Cheonho-dong, Gangdong-gu, Seoul. Although there is a public senior welfare center in Cheonho-dong, the facilities are not as good as those in Jongno, so he often comes here. Mr. C often plays billiards or table tennis, dances, or learns English at the Jongno Senior Welfare Center. He used to play the saxophone. He travels from Cheonho-dong to Jongno because being alone is boring and lonely.

"I live comfortably alone in a two-room house. Still, I come here because it’s boring and lonely. Even if you have money, sadness and loneliness are the same."

A bust of Mr. Song Hae is installed on Songhae-gil, Jongno-gu, Seoul. Photo by Heo Younghan younghan@

Passing Songhae-gil and crossing the street, I headed to Dream Palace at Gukil-gwan. When I pressed the button for the 9th floor in the elevator going up to Gukil-gwan, an elderly person riding with me asked, "Why did you come here?" Upon arriving on the 9th floor and paying the 2,000 won entrance fee, disco music played and mirror ball lights shone. In the dim space, men and women lightly moved their bodies holding each other’s hands and waists. Around 3 p.m., the place was filled with dancing men and women. One side had signs reading ‘246 Blues,’ and the other side had signs saying ‘Janbal’ or ‘Ilbal.’ The movements varied slightly depending on the space. Inside Gukil-gwan, there was a small caf? selling coffee and orange juice for 1,000 to 3,000 won.

Mr. D (in his 60s), wearing a gray beret, comes to Gukil-gwan every day around 2 to 3 p.m. Living separately from his wife, he cleans his house early in the morning, eats lunch, and arrives here around 2 p.m. Mr. D, who lives in Yaksu-dong, Jung-gu, Seoul, spends time here because he usually has nowhere else to go. Gukil-gwan is also called the Hongdae for seniors. Strangers dance and book dates here. Mr. D listens to music, dances, and chats with peers here. The light dancing is not burdensome, and above all, time passes quickly.

"When you get old, there’s nowhere to go. This is a good place for seniors to have fun. It costs a little money and is fun. When you get old, you have to meet people similar to you."

The elderly people I met in Jongno spent their leisure time watching movies, playing Janggi, and dancing.