Interview with Arnaud Fabre, CEO of Domaine Alexandre Bonnet
Producer of premium Champagne and Ros? in Les Riceys, Southern Champagne
Holds 3 AOCs within Champagne... Emphasizes complexity by cultivating all 7 grape varieties
Premium wines that are approachable and not difficult
"France's Terroir (the total natural environment surrounding a vineyard) consists of three elements: climate, soil, and local heritage. I believe that only when grape varieties suitable for the climate are selected and planted in the optimal vineyard, and the efforts and history of the people who have carefully tended those grapes accumulate, does a unique identity finally form. Alexandre Bonnet encapsulates our own unique identity in every bottle of wine."
Arnaud Fabre, CEO of Domaine Alexandre Bonnet, said this in an interview with Asia Economy on the 28th at 'The Siena Lounge' in Cheongdam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul. Recently, consumers expect "wines with a clear identity," and Alexandre Bonnet emphasized that the winery produces wines that embody not only the natural elements of the region where it is rooted but also the human elements.
Fabre, who visited Korea to expand Alexandre Bonnet's presence and sales within on-trade distribution channels such as domestic restaurants, hotels, and bars, focused on promoting Alexandre Bonnet by conducting seminars for fine dining sommeliers handling wine on-site and hosting dinner events during his stay. Shinsegae L&B, which imports Alexandre Bonnet, received an initial test shipment in the second half of last year to gauge market response, and officially launched the brand in line with Fabre's visit.
Fresh and Elegant Wines Fully Reflecting Champagne Terroir
Alexandre Bonnet is a Champagne producer located in Les Riceys in the Cotes des Bar, the southern region of Champagne, France. The Bonnet family began cultivating grapes in this area in the 1930s and has been producing various wines, including Champagne, under the current name since the 1970s. They currently operate about 50 hectares (ha) of vineyards, producing 150,000 to 200,000 bottles annually, which is one of the largest scales among RM (R?coltant-Manipulant, producers who make Champagne using only grapes they grow) Champagne producers in the Champagne region.
The representative grape variety of Alexandre Bonnet is Pinot Noir. Pinot Noir is the most widely planted variety in the Cotes des Bar and forms the core of Alexandre Bonnet's production. What makes the Pinot Noir here special is the Kimmeridgian marl (a mixture of clay and limestone) soil. This contrasts with the northern Champagne region centered around Reims and Epernay, which mostly consists of chalky soils.
Fabre explained, "Pinot Noir grown in Kimmeridgian soil has rich fruitiness and high minerality, giving it an elegant and delicate character. Compared to northern Champagne, the difference in latitude also accentuates the wine's maturity." Les Riceys, where Alexandre Bonnet is located, belongs to the Champagne region but carries many Burgundy characteristics. Fabre emphasized, "If you go just 3 km from Les Riceys, you reach Burgundy. We call ourselves 'sons of Burgundy, brothers of Champagne' because we have the advantages of both regions."
Another distinctive feature of Alexandre Bonnet is that it holds all three Appellations d'Origine Contr?l?e (AOCs) existing in the Champagne region. This makes it very rare within Champagne to produce not only sparkling Champagne but also still wines and ros? wines. AOCs legally define geographical boundaries, grape varieties, cultivation, and winemaking methods allowed for the use of the name. For example, only sparkling wines made in the Champagne region can be called Champagne.
In particular, Ros? des Riceys AOC is a ros? wine made solely from Pinot Noir produced only in the village of Riceys. It is usually consumed relatively young and is so distinctive that it is referred to as the "Riceys taste" even in France. Fabre said, "Alexandre Bonnet uses a method of direct maceration of Pinot Noir to extract flavor and color, rather than blending a small amount of red wine into white wine. This method, a tradition in our region since the 16th century, results in a ros? with a deeper color than any other region's."
Fabre also highlighted that Alexandre Bonnet cultivates and uses all seven grape varieties permitted in Champagne production to add complexity to their wines. Typically, only three varieties?Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, and Chardonnay?are grown or used. He said, "We especially focus on Pinot Blanc, which can enhance the wine's structure, and Arbane, which adds citrus aromas and freshness. Although this may not be efficient from a profitability standpoint, we create our unique character by using varieties rarely employed by other wineries."
"We Hope to Be Remembered as Valuable Yet Accessible Wines"
Fabre predicted that the recent trend toward low-alcohol beverages will positively impact the growth of the Champagne market. He explained, "In Europe, wine has traditionally been an important part of meals, but recently consumption patterns are shifting toward drinking on special occasions or enjoying home parties with friends. Although the wine market size seems to be shrinking, this is mostly due to a decrease in demand for low-priced mass-produced wines, while demand for quality wines remains solid." He added, "As interest in health rises and dietary culture shifts from red meat to vegetarian or poultry options, this is a positive signal for Champagne, which is relatively low in alcohol and highly drinkable."
Alexandre Bonnet minimizes sugar use to align with the recent preference for low-alcohol, clean, and fresh tastes. Champagne undergoes a process called 'degorgement,' where yeast sediment formed during secondary fermentation is removed. During this process, a small amount of wine is lost along with the sediment, so a 'dosage' is added to compensate. The 'liqueur d'exp?dition' added at this stage determines the wine's final sweetness. Alexandre Bonnet produces only 'Brut' or 'Extra-Brut' Champagnes without added sugar at this stage.
Fabre expressed pride, saying, "To have sufficient bubbles, a certain level of sugar is needed, so sugar is usually added at the final stage. However, since we use only high-quality grapes with naturally high sugar content that we grow ourselves, we can produce Champagne with enough bubbles without adding sugar during dosage." He added, "I would like to highlight our house style's essence, the Extra-Brut grade 'Blanc de Noirs.'"
He also expressed high expectations for the Korean market. He pointed out, "The rapid development of gourmet culture in Korea is a positive background for the growth of the wine market." He added, "Alexandre Bonnet is recognized by gourmets, being served in more than 50 Michelin-starred restaurants in France, and we hope it becomes better known among Korean gourmets as well."
Finally, Fabre emphasized that while Alexandre Bonnet wines hold high value for Korean consumers, he hopes they are perceived as wines that are not difficult to enjoy. He concluded, "I hope our wines are remembered as 'Easy Drink Wines' that intuitively taste delicious with fruity charm, while also having a clear identity as 'Fine Wines' with high quality and heritage."
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