[A Sip of a Book] "The President Cooked Ramen Himself Every Weekend"

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This is a story told by the Blue House chef who has been responsible for the meals of five presidents over 20 years. It shares stories of President Kim Dae-jung, known as a big eater; President Roh Moo-hyun, who cooked ramen himself every Sunday morning; President Lee Myung-bak, who loved soy sauce bibimbap; President Park Geun-hye, who insisted on a strict 20g portion for every meal; and President Moon Jae-in, who solved busy lunches with one-dish meals. It entertainingly introduces details that are hard for the general public to know, such as the modern-day Gimi Sanggung (royal food inspector) of the Blue House and behind-the-scenes stories of meals prepared during overseas trips. The historic moments witnessed on-site, including three inter-Korean summits and banquets, are also fascinating to read.

President Kim Dae-jung always finished his Chinese meals without leaving anything behind. His love for Chinese cuisine was so special that even when Korean dishes were served, Doubanjiang (fermented chili bean paste) was separately provided with side dishes, and he enjoyed dipping onions in black bean sauce, so these were always prepared without fail. When having family gatherings once a month, he mostly chose Chinese cuisine, as both he and his wife loved it. Among Chinese dishes, his absolute favorite was 'Buldogjang.' Whenever he lost his appetite or felt weak, he would invariably request Buldogjang. It is well known as a dish that a monk, attracted by its aroma, could not resist and climbed over the fence to eat. Hence, it is called Buldogjang, using the characters for Buddha (불佛), jump (도跳), and fence (장墻). - From "The Big Eater President's Special Love for Chinese Food"

The person always dressed in a suit in the Blue House kitchen is the Gumsikgwan (food inspector). The main role of the Gumsikgwan is similar to that of the Gimi Sanggung in the Joseon Dynasty. They are responsible for inspecting the ingredients the president will eat beforehand and tasting the finished dishes. When purchasing ingredients, the Gumsikgwan accompanies the buyers to check freshness and expiration dates, and preemptively inspects for poisons, food poisoning bacteria, and other hazards. They collect samples of ingredients to send to the Ministry of Food and Drug Safety and supervise external events like catering to prevent accidents. - From "The Blue House's Gimi Sanggung"

President Roh never asked for a second serving of even the most delicious food at the table. Even if the side dish bowls were empty, he would not allow them to be refilled. This was because the kitchen might have to remake the food, and ultimately, leftovers would be discarded. So, when asked if he wanted more, he always replied, "I ate well and am full, so this is enough." As a chef, the most rewarding moment is when the plates come back completely empty. There is no greater sense of accomplishment, and on top of that, hearing feedback like "I enjoyed the meal today as well" makes all the tension and fatigue during preparation vanish. It also makes one vow to serve with even more care the next day. - From "Signature Song 'Sangnok-su' and a Glass of Makgeolli"

Above all, food is the subject of ‘Simmi Gyeongho 心味警護’ (Heart and Taste Protection). This phrase was coined by Jang Se-dong, the head of the security office during former President Chun Doo-hwan’s era. It means ‘protect the president’s heart and even the food.’ If the president complains about the food, it means the security has failed. To anticipate the president’s feelings and ensure he can comfortably enjoy the most delicious food, one must always hold the two words ‘sincerity’ and ‘responsibility’ close to the heart. Preparing food sincerely also includes minimizing food hazards. If the president were to get sick from the food I made, it could disrupt national affairs, so that is unacceptable. Next comes ‘taste.’ Therefore, in summer, dishes are sterilized once or twice a day, storage times are kept short, and food is never reused. - From "Simmi Gyeongho"

Food is also a ‘tool of communication.’ Not only housewives who prepare three meals daily for their families but also professional chefs express their hearts through sincerity. Blue House chefs cannot directly see the president eating the food. Of course, they cannot receive feedback on the spot either. However, just by imagining the president enjoying the meal and preparing the food with utmost care, they believe they are communicating beyond the kitchen. When the president notices the desire to serve even one more meal freshly and appreciates it, the quiet forest path of a chef’s life becomes the happiest moment. - From "Where Did You Find This Precious Ingredient?"

President Park Geun-hye’s 65th birthday was unusually lonely. On February 2, 2017, unlike previous years, no special events were scheduled. Only a simple lunch was shared with aides who came to offer congratulations at the residence. It was her first birthday during the impeachment crisis, and with the Constitutional Court’s decision pending and the special prosecutor’s team announcing a raid, the Blue House was more tense than ever. All related department staff were on standby. However, President Park made no special requests on her birthday morning. She simply ate the usual breakfast menu, and a birthday dinner including seaweed soup was served for lunch. - From "The Hole in the Stocking’s Big Toe"

The 2007 inter-Korean summit was also held in Pyongyang. It was a rare scene with President Roh Moo-hyun and Chairman Kim Jong-il together. The welcoming banquet hosted by the North featured dishes such as roasted goose called Gesani-gui, shredded pear and chestnut called Baebam-chae, and five-grain rice cakes. The South’s return banquet at the Pyongyang People’s Culture Palace was themed ‘Paldo Daejanggeum Cuisine,’ showcasing traditional dishes from southern regions. They brought representative dishes from the eight provinces, including Maekjeok (roasted Jeju black pork) and Nureumjeok, grilled Pungcheon eel from Gochang, Hoengseong Hanwoo beef Neobiani, natural matsutake mushrooms from Odaesan, Jeonju bibimbap, taro soup, and grilled dried croaker from Yeonggwang. Jeonju bibimbap, symbolizing inter-Korean harmony, has been regarded as one of the three great dishes of the Joseon Dynasty alongside Pyongyang cold noodles and Kaesong tangban. - From "Inter-Korean Summits and Three Banquets"

The President’s Chef | Written by Cheon Sang-hyun | Saem & Parkers | 248 pages | 17,000 KRW