[Book Sip] Hallasan, Haenyeo, Oreum Are Not All? ... We Don't Know Jeju

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This book thoroughly captures Jeju's 2,000 years of history, culture, and nature. It provides in-depth information for those who only know Jeju’s fragmented aspects such as Hallasan, oreums, tangerines, haenyeo (female divers), and volcanic islands. For example, it introduces that Jeju’s Tamna Kingdom survived as an independent nation 170 years longer than Silla, that Jeju was effectively under Mongol rule for over 100 years, that the Jeju Haenyeo Uprising was the greatest women’s and anti-Japanese movement in Korean history, and that Suwolbong in Jeju is called the “textbook of global volcanology.” The book tells the story from the perspective of Jeju natives. It offers an interpretation that the Sambyeolcho, famous for their rebellion against the Mongol invasion, were merely exploiters from Jeju’s viewpoint. From Jeju’s perspective, the Goryeo government, local Jeju powers, and even the Sambyeolcho opposing the Mongols were all authorities exploiting Jeju residents. It also explains that the Joseon Dynasty caused suffering through unreasonable tribute demands. The book provides not only history but also tailored travel information for each period.

“As the saying goes, ‘You see as much as you know, and you must look closely to see beauty,’ Jeju is a more valuable and beautiful island the more you learn about it. It has different history, culture, and nature from the Korean Peninsula mainland, and even Jeju’s east, west, south, and north have distinct history, culture, and nature. These differences create Jeju’s value. It was my fortune to live as a Banseo Banjein (half Seoulite, half Jeju native), allowing me to see what only Jeju people can see and what non-Jeju people see simultaneously.” ? From “Introduction”

In Jeju, a wedding is called a “feast” from the very name. The feast lasts for three days. The first day is called “Dosaegi Jabneun Nal,” meaning “the day of pig slaughter.” Villagers gather to slaughter pigs, marking the start of all rituals. Nothing from the slaughtered pig is wasted. Fresh liver is a delicacy eaten on the spot by those who helped with the slaughter, dipped in coarse salt. Blood and innards become sue (blood sausage). Sue is made by mixing pig’s blood with buckwheat flour, chives, and salt, stuffed into intestines and boiled. Jokbal (pig’s feet) is called Agangbal in Jeju; it is taken to the postpartum house to help the mother’s milk flow well, and the tail is taken by grandmothers for grandchildren who drool. The pig’s head is offered during the morning door ritual on the wedding day. (Omitted)

The second day is called “the eating day” because the slaughtered pig is shared and eaten with villagers. Jeju people say that when there is a family event, “there is something to eat,” and going to a wedding is said as going to eat at a feast. In other words, a feast means eating pork. On this day, not only relatives but the entire village come to the feast house to eat, drink, and have fun. Originally, the formal name of the second day was “family feast,” where relatives gathered after a long time to prepare and be served for the wedding on the next day (third day). For the family feast, villagers gathered no matter how busy to prepare and serve food. On small islands like Marado, if a family event occurred during seaweed season, people would abandon seaweed harvesting to help. The seaweed harvesting period is less than a week, and missing it would severely impact household economy, but the community took priority. Over time, the family feast changed to a day when not only relatives but also neighbors and acquaintances gathered to be served. After all, Jeju is a “Gweondang society,” where villagers are connected as Gweondang (relatives) in some way, so going to a feast means working and being served. The term “family feast” is sometimes used to refer to the entire three-day feast.

Because Jeju people could only eat pork on this special day, a special expert called “Dogam” was invited to ensure no meat was wasted and that it was evenly distributed. The name Dogam comes from the use of knives, and they are respectfully invited from the house holding the event. Dogam estimates the number of guests and the amount of pork to distribute it without shortage or surplus. If the meat runs out, the feast is considered a failure. Therefore, the success of the feast depends on Dogam’s knife skills, making Dogam a specialist unique to Jeju. ? From “March. Culture ? Jeju Weddings Are Family Feasts”

Being born in Jeju during the Joseon Dynasty was almost like a punishment. Since Jeju is an island, there was no direct land tax, but a tribute system existed. While tribute goods were state finances and sometimes reduced during famine or natural disasters, and after the implementation of the Daedong law could be paid in money, rice, or cloth, tribute goods for the royal family never decreased regardless of famine. Jeju was like a royal exclusive occupied territory, and tribute was a burden on top of tribute. The items Jeju people had to offer to the royal family were mostly Jeju specialties such as tangerines, seafood, medicinal herbs, horses, black cattle, and jerky, which were irreplaceable. Jeju people had to bear up to ten labor duties per person.

People suffering under these harsh obligations began to leave, and after the Imjin War, Jeju’s population dropped to half of what it was during King Sejong’s reign. Jeju was a crucial strategic point for national defense and a treasure trove of tribute goods for the Joseon government. Eventually, the State Council proposed a ban on landing and disembarking in Jeju, which King Injo accepted. From 1629, Jeju people could not go to the mainland without permission, and mainlanders could not come to Jeju. The beautiful Jeju Island became a blue prison on the sea. ? From “May. History ? The Blue Prison, the Landing Ban”

Would you believe a forest could form on rocks? First, the phrase “forest on rocks” itself is unusual. How about this? There is a region where you must visit in spring, not autumn, to walk on fallen leaves. Plants there reverse their timing: they sprout in spring, bear fruit from summer to winter, or sprout in winter and complete their cycle in spring. Winters are warm, and summers are cool. Is this a story about an alien planet? Of course not. This mysterious miraculous forest that overturns all common sense is called Gotjawal. (Omitted)

According to the Jeju dialect dictionary, Gotjawal is defined as “a place where trees and vines are tangled messily like a thicket.” However, Gotjawal was not originally a place name. Jeju had two different landforms: Got, meaning forest, and Jawal, meaning thorny bush area. The name Gotjawal was coined by Dr. Song Si-tae by combining Got and Jawal. Dr. Song defined this place, where diverse flora and fauna coexist and a unique ecosystem is maintained, as a site worthy of human study and protection by giving it an academic name.

Dr. Song focused on Gotjawal because of water. Gotjawal produces about half of Jeju’s groundwater. Rainwater seeps through the porous lava layers, creating clean and clear groundwater. Gotjawal has almost no soil, only rocks and stones tangled randomly, making economic activities like agriculture or forestry impossible. There is no flat land to build a house, so it was abandoned. Thanks to this, no fertilizers or pesticides are used, and no sewage or waste is produced. Gotjawal produces the cleanest groundwater, sustaining Jeju people. ? From “June. Nature ? The Forest That Defies Common Sense, Jeju Gotjawal”

Among oreums, one stands out. Sanbangsan is an oreum with a legend that it was once atop Hallasan, the highest mountain in Jeju. According to legend, Seolmundaehalmang, who created Jeju Island, thought Hallasan was too pointed, so she plucked off the top and threw it away. The oreum formed by the thrown piece is Sanbangsan. Remarkably, its size fits perfectly when placed back, and it is made of the same trachyte lava as the last lava flow from Baengnokdam crater. Its shape, size, and even rock type are similar. This coincidence is so striking that the legend was born from the desire to believe it was not accidental. However, the legend is just a legend; in reality, Sanbangsan is one of the earliest oreums formed on Jeju, much older than Baengnokdam. It is about 800,000 years old. ? From “August. Nature ? The Air on Oreums Tastes Good”

Mysterious Island Jeju Heritage | Written by Ko Jin-suk | Blackfish | 528 pages | 20,700 KRW