[Jo Yongjun's Journey] Birdsong and Wind Sounds, a Quiet Companion on the Way to Jikso Falls

Must-Visit Places in Spring 2023
Clear Water Sounds Cutting Through the Forest
Jikso-bo Capturing the Scenic Beauty of Naebyeonsan
Naesosa Temple Amidst Floating Mist

Jiksobo, which perfectly captures the beautiful scenery of Naebyeonsan, adds charm as a mountain lake. Photo by Jo Yongjun, travel journalist

The path to the waterfall is, in a word, a scenic masterpiece. The trail perfectly captures the beautiful landscapes of Byeonsanbando National Park. Passing through valleys and forest paths, you come across a small pool nestled in the mountains, where the elegant stream flowing from the waterfall weaves countless stories. This is the story of Jikso Waterfall located in Byeonsan National Park. Jikso Waterfall is considered one of the eight scenic spots of Byeonsan in Buan. The water cascading down a 30-meter-high cliff adds a sense of purity. As summer approaches, the path to the waterfall becomes even richer and fresher. Byeonsan also boasts the famous Naesosa Fir Forest Trail. On days when rain hastens the summer, the temple is enveloped in a fantastic mist, adding to its charm. And that's not all. Along the winding coastline, there are Chaeseokgang, Jeokbyeokgang, Gyeokpo Port, Gomso Port, and Gosapo Beach. How about the clams from the rich mudflats and the salty Gomso jeotgal (fermented seafood)? The village paths connecting the coastal villages are also heartwarming.

If you climb for about 30 minutes on the trail, you can reach Jikso-bo.
Photo by Jo Yong-jun, travel journalist

The road to Jikso Falls as spring ripens. Photo by Jo Yongjun, travel journalist

Jikso Waterfall, located at the heart of Naebyeonsan, is counted among the three great scholars of Buan along with the female poet Maechang Lee Gyesaeng and the rustic poet Yoo Heekyung. There is a saying, "Do not talk about Byeonsan without seeing Jikso Waterfall and Junggye Valley," highlighting its breathtaking scenery.

The path to the waterfall is tranquil. Even though it is located on the slopes of Naebyeonsan within Byeonsanbando National Park, the route differs from the one to Naesosa Temple. While the path to Naesosa is crowded with visitors year-round, the trail to Jikso Waterfall is a quiet walking path. The entrance to Naesosa is bustling with restaurants vying for customers, but the path to Jikso Waterfall is accompanied only by the sounds of birds and the wind.

The exploration of Jikso Waterfall begins at the Naebyeonsan Branch Office. It is 2.2 km to Jikso Waterfall. Walking leisurely while enjoying the scenery takes about two hours round trip. Except for a few stone paths near the waterfall, most of the course is gentle. Nearby attractions like Bongrae Gugok and Silsangsa Temple make the journey even more exciting.

Spring scenery of Jikso Falls viewed from the observatory. Photo by Jo Yongjun, travel journalist

From the Naebyeonsan parking lot to the Charter for Environmental Protection Monument, the path is flat. Silsangsa Temple, encountered at the beginning of the trail, has a modest charm without even a fence. The temple, nestled beneath Seoninbong Peak, was founded by the monk Choeui during the Unified Silla period and was rebuilt during the reign of Prince Yangnyeong of the Joseon Dynasty. Only Mireukjeon Hall and Samseonggak Shrine have been restored on the site destroyed during the Korean War. The valley you cross when leaving Silsangsa is Bongrae Gugok. The water flowing down from Jikso Waterfall forms pools such as Bunokdam and Seonnyeotang before flowing here.

The real mountain hike toward the waterfall also begins here. At the entrance, there is a nature observation trail where you can observe the vegetation of Naebyeonsan. Climbing a gentle hill, the vast Jikso Reservoir first comes into view. On windless days, Jikso Reservoir embraces the splendid scenery of Naebyeonsan. Gwaneumbong Peak and lush green trees surround it, and fish swim in the water. The view of Jikso Reservoir from the deck path along the reservoir serves as a splendid 'warm-up' for appreciating Jikso Waterfall.

Jikso Waterfall presents a magnificent cascade of water in the summer.
Photo by Jo Yongjun, travel journalist

Jikso Waterfall does not easily reveal its exquisite form. Seonnyeotang and Bunokdam signal the approach to the waterfall. The water falling from the waterfall does not flow carelessly but forms a charming pool along with small waterfall streams. Looking up from here, Jikso Waterfall pours its stream from the middle of the cliff. Below the water is a pool imbued with a blue hue.

You can see the waterfall from the Jikso Waterfall Observatory, but the real experience comes from approaching the waterfall front via a narrow mountain path. Seeing, hearing, and wiping sweat on the rocks where the spray seems to touch you reveals the true nature of the waterfall. The pool of Jikso Waterfall has long been called 'Silsang Yongchu.' According to legend, residents of Silsang Village in Byeonsan would catch wild boars in this water and perform rain rituals during droughts.

The scenery of Naesosa Temple, a thousand-year-old temple shrouded in drifting mist, is serene and tranquil.
Photo by Jo Yongjun, travel journalist

The famous site in Naebyeonsan that rivals Jikso Waterfall is Naesosa Temple. Crossing Jaebaekigo Pass from Jikso Waterfall, you can reach Naesosa on foot. If you are confident in walking, the Naesosa course (4-5 hours) is worth trying. You can fully enjoy the charm of Naebyeonsan and Oebyeonsan, where mountains and sea harmonize. For a leisurely walking trip, turning back at Jikso Waterfall is perfectly fine.

Zelkova tree located within the grounds of Naesosa, a thousand-year-old temple. Photo by Jo Yongjun, travel specialist.

After leaving Jikso Waterfall, I headed toward Naesosa. The forest road winding around Deokseongbong and Oknyobong Peaks is also a great drive course. Naesosa is fresh with its fir forest trail. The grand fir forest stretches about 600 meters from Iljumun Gate to Cheonwangmun Gate. It is a popular beautiful path that many want to walk. Founded in 633 (the 34th year of King Mu) by monks Hyegu and Duta, Naesosa retains the dignity of a thousand-year-old temple.

Daewoongbojeon Hall, located with Gwaneumbong Peak at its back, is registered as Treasure No. 291. Byeonsanbando National Park is divided into Naebyeonsan, known for its beautiful mountain terrain, and Oebyeonsan, famous for its coastal scenery.

Byeonsan Peninsula embraces many beaches and pine forests along its coastline. Gosapo Coastal Pine Forest is one of them. Photo by Jo Yongjun, travel journalist

After enjoying the forested waterfall and temple, it is time to explore the coast of Byeonsan. The representative scenic spot of Oebyeonsan is the Gyeokpo area. Chaeseokgang is a coastal cliff formation created by the erosive action of seawater. Sedimentary rocks form strata over granite and gneiss, creating a landscape resembling thousands of stacked books or fish scales.

Named 'Chaeseokgang' because it resembles the Chaeseokgang favored by the Chinese Tang Dynasty poet Li Bai, it is registered as Scenic Site No. 13 along with Jeokbyeokgang. It is always crowded with people waiting for the tide to rise or fall to climb the rocks.

Gyeokpo Beach offers a charming landscape. Although not a vast beach, the nearby rocky cliffs and cozy sandy beach blend beautifully. At sunset, the footprints of families and couples on a stroll decorate the beach.

◇ Travel Information

△Getting There=Use the Seohaean Expressway, exit at Buan IC, take National Route 30 passing through Buan town, and drive along the coastline. After passing the Saemangeum Exhibition Hall, use Local Road 736 from Byeonsan Township Office to reach the Naebyeonsan Exploration Support Center.

Mulberry Leaf Stone Pot Bibimbap. Photo by Jo Yongjun, Travel Specialist Reporter

△Food=Buan has many restaurants serving clam dishes such as clam soup, grilled clams, and steamed clams. The Gyeokpo Port area has many sashimi restaurants. Gunsan Restaurant is famous for its taste. The original clam porridge and clam salad are deliciously served at Wonjo Baji-rakjuk Oncheon Sanjang. For jeotgal set meals, head to Gomso Port. There is also a delicacy called 'Ojuck,' a porridge made with the ink of cuttlefish caught in front of Buan, known for its mild taste and rich nutrition, making it an excellent health food. The mulberry leaf bibimbap in front of Naesosa (pictured) is served with a variety of vegetables and is delicious for its price.

△Attractions=Do not miss Gaeamsa Temple, Solseom Island famous for its sunset, Chaeseokgang, and Buan Masilgil (village paths). Near Gyeokpo Port is the 'Buan Film Theme Park,' the filming location for movies like The King and the Clown and Immortal Admiral Yi Sun-sin.