[So Jongseop's Sokterview] Jang Gwanghyo "People Who Don't Know Fashion Are Unhappy"

Men's Wear Designer No.1, "Fashion is Fantasy and Dream"
Designed Numerous Uniforms for Military, Police, and Various Institutions and Companies
"My Dream is to Establish a Fashion Museum, Will Start in 3 Years"

Showrooms evoke excitement. Seeing clothes in all colors and varieties makes my thoughts zigzag and brings peace. Perhaps it is the freedom that creation offers. I imagine how the clothes would look when worn. This was the feeling when I visited Caruso's showroom in Cheongdam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul, at 3 p.m. on April 12.

When I knocked on the door, I heard someone hurriedly coming down the stairs from upstairs. Soon, a small man with a youthful face that belies his 60s appeared?Jang Kwanghyo, one of Korea's leading fashion designers. "How have you been?" His gentle first words made the corners of my mouth lift naturally. Listening to his growth story as Korea's first menswear designer to enter the Paris Collection, his college experiences, his journey and philosophy in fashion, and even his policy suggestions, two hours flew by in an instant.

Fashion designer Jang Gwang-hyo's showroom is located in Cheongdam-dong, Gangnam-gu. Photo by Dongju Yoon doso7@

I heard you recently went on a business trip abroad.

I go in spring and autumn. I check market trends and also clear my head. This time, I went to Milan and Paris.

How is the flow of overseas fashion?

Italy and France, considered fashion powerhouses, are not doing very well economically. The impact of COVID-19 is a factor, and their lifestyle is somewhat different from ours. While some people there dress stylishly and buy luxury goods, the general public does not. Right now, Korea is the top market. Korea is the country receiving the most global attention in K-pop, movies, food, and fashion. When Europeans are asked which country they most want to visit, they all say Seoul. It's amazing.

That's an astonishing change.

Ten years ago, people said, "I should visit if I get the chance." Now, regardless of age or gender, ten out of ten say, "The country I most want to visit in the world is your country, Korea, Seoul." Honestly, such a great opportunity is rare. It probably won't last long. Korea is truly at a crossroads to becoming a developed country. Economically, we are a developed country, but in essence, we are at a turning point toward maturity.

Looking at young people these days, I think they must be having a hard time. I wonder what message I should give. For the past 40 years, I have held collections twice a year without fail. I believe I must continue this for the juniors and do my best.

Where do you see K-fashion's position in the world?

If I were in my 30s or 40s, I wouldn't be in Cheongdam-dong but would be working in Paris or elsewhere, spreading Korean products to the global market. Koreans love luxury goods, and I feel some responsibility for that. In terms of the number of designers, Korea is probably number one in the world. Including academies, there are about 250 fashion schools in Korea, the most in the world. France has fewer than ten, and Paris has only about five or six. Seoul alone has over 100. Yet, I wonder why we don't lead the world and why no world-class designers have emerged.

Isn't the cultural trend of Korea leading the world ripening these days?

There are about 400 to 500 foreign brands in Korea. Counting only truly global luxury brands, there are about 30 to 40. Almost all major brands are present. Why did they come? Because there is a market, consumers, sales, and revenue. But we are not like that abroad. Some designers work hard, but no company with an independent brand has opened stores overseas yet. They only sell in select shops.

Fashion designer Jang Gwang-hyo hoped to serve as a stepping stone for his juniors. Photo by Dongju Yoon doso7@

Then, unlike K-pop or movies, is it too soon to say Korea is gaining attention in the global fashion scene?

It seems too soon. K-pop didn't just happen by standing still. BTS blossomed, but before that, idol groups and girl groups went abroad, challenged, reached top ranks, and made comebacks. Fashion has very high barriers. If someone like me tried to take orders in Paris or Italy, I would need the world's best fabrics, sewing, design, and top-notch promotion to succeed.

You mean we need to move as a package, but our infrastructure is weak.

Movies receive investments of hundreds of millions or billions of won. But fashion is done by individuals. There are limits when a designer without money competes with global luxury brands with just an idea. Ideas are good, but they are illusions unless realized physically. However, infrastructure and capital to realize them are insufficient. Designers can create designs, but the system and support to make them into actual luxury goods are lacking.

I believe young Korean designers have ideas and enough potential and ability. But it doesn't work with just will; fantasy is needed, and that requires money. That's why I grit my teeth and do fashion shows with all my might. I hope to be a stepping stone for juniors to stand up.

Still, hasn't Korean fashion developed a lot compared to the past?

For example, if a domestic brand has annual sales of about 15 billion won but exports only 1 to 1.5 billion won, you can't call it a world leader. There are regrets. First, the government supports sending designers to overseas shows but sends inexperienced newcomers. It's not just about going but knowing how to do it. You can't make a toddler run 100 meters. Support is also one-off. Without continuity, it's like blowing air into lungs, and it doesn't last long. It feels like a waste of taxes. Selecting experienced people who can realize things and supporting them continuously for at least five years would achieve something.

What do you think is the reason Korea's fashion market hasn't grown globally?

None of Korea's native brands have reached luxury status. But since we like luxury and know quality, maybe we can make good clothes. Korean designers have vision. So I think only the support system needs to be established. K-pop leads the global market because it has a well-established platform; it didn't just happen suddenly without anything. If Korean designers go abroad and work, the opportunity to capture the global market might come.

Have you ever been asked abroad to introduce Korean designers?

There was one case. Also, an Italian brand proposed to buy my brand. It was earlier this year, and I said I would sell if the price was right. Because entering the European market with my brand isn't bad. It's encouraging as it means our brand is recognized, not just about making money.

He, who is very interested in history, made an innovative attempt to incorporate Kim Si-seup and Yeolha Ilgi into a fashion show. Photo by Dongju Yoon doso7@

Almost all male celebrities have worn 'Jang Kwanghyo clothes,' right?

Jo Yongpil, Seo Taiji, Sobangcha, Ahn Sungki, Park Joonghoon, Hwang Jungmin, Bi, Jung Woosung, Lee Byunghun, Hyun Bin, Geum Nansae... It's hard to list them all. Actor Lee Jungjae and singer Lim Youngwoong have also worn them. Recently, I dressed the contestants of MBN's 'Burning Trotman.' Everyone has their own work in their field. They should work with ambition and a sense of mission to become the best in their field. Doing things halfway won't make you the best. There are many second and third-generation chaebols like Hyundai, Lotte, and Aekyung Oil.

I'm curious how you got involved with fashion.

When I was in middle school, I watched the movie , and the costumes were so cool. It gave me a strong shock that made my heart race. That was when 'fashion' first struck me. I entered the Visual Design Department at Kookmin University, where the dean of the College of Fine Arts was the famous architect Kim Swoo-geun. I studied fashion as a minor. Among fashion majors, one or two students a year were so good they passed the bar exam. My father wanted me to take the bar exam. When a professor asked me about my dream, I said I wanted to be a world-class designer. He told me to enjoy eating and playing to the fullest and gave me specific places like department stores, hotels, and Itaewon bars. That's when I developed my fashion sense.

What kind of person was your father?

He studied a bit during the Japanese occupation but didn't fit with the world, so he lived quietly reading books and listening to music. Our family made a living from a brewery. My father wanted me to study for the bar exam or become a soldier, but I didn't follow his wishes. I thought my life was more important than the life my father wanted.

Was there a special reason you decided to major in fashion?

Since I did art, I had some basic sense. Also, I thought pioneering a new path rather than following others would be fun. Among formally trained designers, I am the first male fashion designer. At that time, there were no menswear designers. After studying in France and working at Cambridge Members and Nonno, I decided to start my own business and founded Caruso in 1987. It's been 37 years. I've made money and been scammed, but now I have enough to do shows until I die. My motto is to be a good person, to be the best in my field, and to be someone necessary.

You have made diverse and unique attempts, such as combining history and architecture with fashion.

I am very interested in history. I combined the works of Maewoldang Kim Si-seup with fashion and also connected Yeolha Ilgi with fashion. To be the best in one's field, one must have a New Frontier spirit. Maybe that's why I like doing what others don't. When everyone says someone is bad, I think, "Why bad? I see good sides too."

I even make men wear skirts in my shows. Why should only women wear skirts? Women originally didn't wear pants; Chanel was the first to make pants. Similarly, skirts can be comfortable. Nowadays, with same-sex marriages, is it necessary to distinguish gender? Changing thinking can be creative and challenging.

But I have no intention, even 1%, to radically change morals or ethics to create a new fantasy. I value tradition and history and think they should be preserved as much as possible. Of course, some changes are needed over time.

What points do you focus on when designing clothes?

If someone is 185 cm tall, has a small face, a slim waist, and moderate muscles with perfect body proportions, I tailor to that person. But most people have flaws like a big face, a belly, or being too skinny. Perfect people are rare. If the person lacks something, I tell them to adjust to my standards. For example, making short legs look longer, long legs look shorter, or thin people look a bit chubbier is possible. Adjustments can be made by how the clothes are sized and patterned.

I tell the wearer, "At first, you may feel confused and not completely satisfied. But try to adapt. After wearing it for a month or two, if you understand, the clothes become yours. Clothes are not 100% my responsibility. You have 50% responsibility, and I have 50%. Find your own style. I'm not trying to evade responsibility; the maker's ability matters, but the wearer must also manage their body and daily condition. I'll do my best, so you should try too."

How much do people accept and understand that?

If they don't understand or accept it, that's fine. I'm not a clothes salesman.

How do you define fashion? What is your philosophy on fashion?

Fashion is fantasy, deliciousness, charm, and a dream. People who don't know fashion are unfortunate. If someone says, "I don't know about that; I just want to live comfortably," I want to ask, "Then why do you live?" We can live every day like a festival, so why live miserably? Everyone ages and dies. Style is something to enjoy before 80 because after that, joints get bad, and it's hard to be stylish. A person's charm isn't just because they are handsome.

There's a saying that clothes are wings. When you feel good, things go better. Every day is not dull but a festival. Even if you live like that, soon you will grow old, get sick, and die. Thinking about dying several times a day makes every day truly precious.

He does not drink or smoke, eats small portions, lives a regular lifestyle, and maintains a relaxed mindset, which are the secrets to his health. Photo by Dongju Yoon doso7@

Maybe because you live every day like a festival, you look much younger than your age.

I am 68 years old this year by Korean age. My home is fully furnished with furniture and lighting. I decorated it to feel like a nice hotel in a resort. That helps me sleep well. I fall asleep within five minutes of lying down. Good sleep seems fundamental to health. I eat moderately, eat lots of fruit, don't drink or smoke, and sleep well. Maybe that's why I'm healthy.

Also, I don't worry. I don't want to worry. Even without worrying, things that should happen happen. Worrying doesn't make things happen. I only do what I can. So I don't have big dreams. But actually, that is a big dream. Giving up useless dreams is a great dream. There's no heaven elsewhere. I think my mind is heaven, and I live harmoniously with my wife. We always eat dinner together, and I keep external lunch appointments simple.

The life of a fashion designer seems busy and glamorous, but you seem to live a refined life.

I can work enough during the day, so why work at night? At night, I should rest at home. I prepare six months ahead. I pour my philosophy, dreams, hopes, and messages for juniors into the shows held in spring and autumn. For the show on March 16 this year, I finished making all the clothes by December 24 last year. Then I coordinate, style, modify, and have models try them on. Because we don't have much money and work under difficult conditions, to compete with Europe, we must make clothes more perfectly than them.

Many things are insufficient, but at least on screen, it must look flawless. I spend three months perfecting that. That way, it goes as I want, and Europeans and people from developed countries will feel this designer is on par with them. If done carelessly, the clothes look careless. I don't do this to make money but to show juniors. That's how I have value, do my best, and become necessary.

What are your future dreams?

To build a fashion museum. I have purchased land. I plan to start in about three years. I intend to establish a foundation and donate it to society. It's important to make it last long for future generations.

A scene from the Caruso show at Seoul Fashion Week last March. Photo by Jang Kwanghyo

[Who is Jang Kwanghyo]

Born in 1956 in Gangjin, Jeollanam-do. Graduated from Kookmin University with a degree in Industrial Arts. Earned a master's degree in Textile Design from Hongik University and studied abroad at the ?cole des Arts in Fontainebleau, France. After working at fashion companies, he launched Caruso in 1987 and became the first menswear designer from Korea to enter the Paris Collection in 1994. He is a familiar fashion designer to the public, appearing on MBC sitcom 'Hello Francesca' and MBC's 'Knee-Drop Guru.' Besides creative activities, he designed uniforms for the military, police, and numerous institutions and companies such as Shinsegae, Nonghyup, and SK Telecom. His wife is soprano professor Gil Aeryeong of Mokpo National University. He authored the book .