[One Day Walk] Following the Traces of Modern and Contemporary History in Myeongdong

Feel the footsteps of modern and contemporary history of the Republic of Korea on a path you might have passed by without notice. Today’s recommended course is the ‘Myeongdong Modern and Contemporary History Trail.’ Starting from Myeongdong Cathedral, passing the Berlin Wall, the site of Lee Hoe-young’s house, Myeongdong Art Theater, and Hwangudan, and ending at Seoul Library, this course is 2.8 km long and can be explored in just over an hour. Myeongdong Cathedral, standing majestically with Namsan Mountain at its back, was built in 1898 as the first Catholic cathedral in Korea and is the largest Neo-Gothic architectural structure in the country. The cathedral is not only valuable as a building but also recognized for its historical significance as a place that protected the common people during Korea’s turbulent modern history and fostered the birth of democracy. It has been designated as Historic Site No. 258.

Myeongdong Cathedral

Let’s embark on a time travel to the modern era from the red brick Myeongdong Cathedral standing alone amidst the gray high-rise buildings. Passing the pointed spires and elegant arches of the cathedral towering over Namsan, enter the Catholic Archdiocese of Seoul History Museum to get an overview of the growth and history of the Catholic Church in Korea. Facing the bust of Father Kim Dae-geon, the first Korean Catholic priest martyr, reflect on the history of Korean Catholicism that took root steadfastly despite numerous persecutions. Upon entering the underground cathedral, even those without religious beliefs are overwhelmed by reverence; it houses the relics of nine saints martyred during the Gihae and Byeongin persecutions. The recently built outdoor prayer hall’s statue of the Virgin Mary, reminiscent of the grotto in Lourdes, France, is especially beautiful at night.

Walking about 10 minutes from Myeongdong Cathedral toward Cheonggyecheon, you will encounter an unusual sculpture at a street corner. This is Berlin Square at Cheonggyecheon. Created in 2005 to pray for the reunification of Korea, the only divided country on Earth, Berlin Square features a section of the Berlin Wall donated by the German government and a blue bear statue symbolizing the city of Berlin. Looking at the faint inscriptions left by West German citizens on the wall, imagine a unified Korean Peninsula.

Heading back toward the heart of Myeongdong along Myeongdong 11-gil, you will find the site of the house of Udang Lee Hoe-young. Standing before the home where the six Lee brothers devoted their entire family fortune to the independence movement during the late Joseon period, take a moment to honor the sacrifices of the patriots who made it possible for us to freely stand on our own land.

Now, let’s change the atmosphere and move to Myeongdong Art Theater. Built in 1936 as a theater and cinema, Myeongdong Art Theater was later used as a Seoul city official residence and the National Theater, and was even sold to the private sector in 1975. The Ministry of Culture and Tourism (now the Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism) acquired it and reopened it in 2009 as the exclusive theater of the National Theater Company. After enjoying the splendid Baroque-style theater building, walk toward Sogong-dong, leaving Myeongdong behind. At the entrance of Sogong-dong, within the site of the Joseon Hotel, the next course awaits: Hwangudan. This was where the Son of Heaven of Confucianism offered rites to the heavens. During the Japanese colonial period, the main altar was demolished, and now only the Hwanggungwoo, which enshrined the spirit tablet, remains. Recalling the scene of Emperor Gojong’s enthronement ceremony here brings a pang of sorrow for our innocent ancestors who could not have imagined the dark times ahead.

Stroll through the vast lawn of Seoul Plaza and let go of your heavy heart. Soon, the grand Seoul Library, today’s final destination, will come into view. Opened in 2012 after remodeling the old Seoul City Hall building, Seoul Library houses over 540,000 domestic and international books and materials. It’s a good place to rest your tired legs and take a brief look around.