[First Ride Life]③ Morning of Noryangjin Exam Students, 1,000 Won 'Iced Americano' Instead of Cupbap

24-Hour Print Shop Filled with Exam Students' Determination
Streets Lined with Cigarette Butts... "Looks Like Snow Fell"

Editor's NoteThere is a person who opens the story of life by breathing the early morning air every day. At a time when many are still asleep, these are the people who start their day by taking the first train. Those who fill the warmth of the dawn bus, the busy dawn delivery drivers delivering countless goods, and the youth of Noryangjin who have just begun to sketch the blueprint of their lives. Each has a different life story and a different path to take, but they share the commonality of seeking a spark of hope in their hard lives. Let us enter the stories of those who will vigorously open their 'first train life' in 2023.

[Asia Economy Reporter Lee Ji-eun] At 6:30 a.m. on the 29th of last month, Noryangjin, the symbol of Seoul's exam district. Those who gather there every dawn by taking the first train are prospective office workers. With the popularization of online lectures, the scenery of Noryangjin has changed a lot. The sight of students lined up from dawn to queue for civil service exam academies, as in the past, can no longer be seen.

One or two students left home early for self-study or study groups and entered the academies. The only stores open on the quiet streets of Noryangjin were those advertising '24-hour service'.

Once overcrowded with students, Noryangjin has recently seen a significant decrease in foot traffic. The competition rate for the 9th-grade civil service exam has dropped to its lowest level in 30 years. The once popular 'iron rice bowl' is a thing of the past, as young people find little appeal in civil servant salaries that are lower than the minimum wage. The COVID-19 pandemic and the spread of online lectures have also had a major impact.

Around 6:30 AM on December 29, 2022, in front of the hagwon district near Noryangjin Station. Photo by Lee Ji-eun leezn@

Yoon Jeong-sook (63, pseudonym), who has been selling gimbap across the crosswalk in front of Noryangjin Station for years, said, "Since the COVID-19 situation, the number of people has decreased a lot," adding, "Even before that, students were leaving due to online lectures and such, but COVID-19 was the final blow."

The gimbap she sells costs 2,500 won per roll, regardless of type. While she was answering questions, a customer came and took a bag of gimbap. Most customers are civil service exam students with tight budgets.

By 7 a.m., several low-cost coffee shops began to open. None of the stores in the 'Cupbap Street,' known as a symbol of Noryangjin, were open yet. These stores usually open around 10 a.m., meaning there are no civil service exam students having breakfast there in the morning.

At one time, cupbap shops were located in the heart of Noryangjin, but in 2015, citing street beautification, they were pushed out to the pedestrian bridge street from the entrance of Noryangjin Manyang-ro to in front of Sayuksin Park, away from the academy area. Since every second counts for civil service exam students, there was no reason to go far to cupbap shops for breakfast.

Instead, students' footsteps gathered at low-cost coffee shops. In every store that lit up and opened, one or two students were seen ordering coffee. Individual stores targeted students' light wallets by offering prices cheaper than branded low-cost coffee and discount policies. One store advertised 'Takeout Americano 1,000 won,' and another had a signboard stating that if you prepay for 25 cups, you get 6 cups free.

December 29, 2022, the alley in the Noryangjin academy district where the old 'Cupbap Street' was located. Photo by Lee Ji-eun leezn@

Upon entering one low-cost coffee shop, coffee coupons covering the walls caught the eye. These were coffee coupons from civil service exam students who buy coffee daily. Despite the cold weather, customers who followed into the store all ordered iced Americanos instead of warm caf? lattes to warm up.

Perhaps due to the characteristics of the MZ generation, known as the 'Eoljuka (frozen but still iced Americano)' tribe. This reflects the youth of Noryangjin civil service exam students, mostly in their twenties. A caf? part-timer also said, "'Aa' (iced Americano) orders are many."

Although the competition rate for civil service exam students has decreased, the competition rate for popular job categories still exceeds 100 to 1. This means that out of 100 people studying here, 98 to 99 will fail.

The stress young people endure due to an uncertain future was evident from the numerous cigarette butts scattered everywhere. While there may be no alleys without cigarette butts in Seoul, Noryangjin seemed to have an especially large number. Cigarette butts were scattered on piles of snow that had not melted and turned black, spoiling the street's appearance.

Lee Hwa-sun (70, pseudonym), who is in charge of cleaning a building in the center of Noryangjin, was sweeping trash in front of the building with a broom from early morning. She said, "No matter how hard it is, young people shouldn't be like this," and added, "When I rest on Sunday and come back, it's worse on Monday. Cigarette butts are lined up as if snow has fallen," shaking her head.

As foot traffic decreased, the number of part-time workers handing out academy flyers also declined. Mr. A, in his 60s, who has been doing this job for years, explained, "Academies no longer have the capacity to manage many part-time workers," adding, "When instructors become popular, they start their own businesses, so academies are not as good as before."

Post-it notes containing the wishes of public service exam candidates posted in a 24-hour print room on December 29, 2022. Photo by Lee Ji-eun leezn@

Although the Noryangjin academy district has become quieter than before, the hearts of the youth dreaming of passing exams remain sincere and earnest. On the wall of a print shop advertising '24-hour service,' colorful post-it notes filled with the wishes of civil service exam students were densely attached.

These included the wish of a long-term student saying, "Prepare yourself for next year, it's real," the wish of a police officer hopeful saying, "If I don't become a police officer, who will?" and the wishes of families of civil service exam students saying, "Our Jin-young can do it." Im Hyun-ah (24, pseudonym), who dreams of becoming a police officer, said, "I'm doing it because I want to. Even if people around me say the competition is tough and it will be hard, I have to try first."

By 8 a.m., the Noryangjin academy district brightened. Students who came out onto the street at a brisk pace entered various academy entrances, and some smoked briefly before entering.

Mr. A was handing out flyers energetically to passersby and students with his hands in his pockets. "Whether it's cold or hot, I have to work." No one readily accepted the flyers, but Mr. A did not give up. His figure resembled the Noryangjin civil service exam students who do not easily give up despite a 100 to 1 competition rate.