[Jo Yongjun's Travel Miles] The Island You Can't Help Falling in Love With, Tongyeong Saryangdo

Saryangdo Jirisan - One of the 100 Famous Mountains Where You Can Enjoy Both Sea and Mountains Together

[Asia Economy Reporter Cho Yong-jun, Travel Specialist] Saryangdo Island, along with Hansando, Yokjido, and Maemuldo, is a representative island of Tongyeong. Divided mainly into Sangdo and Hado, Saryangdo gets its name from the long, winding strait between the islands that resembles a snake, using the character for snake (蛇). The narrow and calm sea leads into the beautiful Hallyeohaesang National Park. When you climb Oknyobong, one of Tongyeong’s eight scenic spots, a breathtaking view unfolds beneath your feet, making anyone fall in love with this island. It is no exaggeration to say that Saryangdo became famous because of Jirisan. Originally called Jirimangsan, meaning the mountain from which Jirisan is visible, it is now simply called Jirisan. It proudly ranks among Korea’s top 100 mountains selected by the Korea Forest Service in 2002, boasting an attractive ridge line. Above all, you can enjoy both mountain and sea, so hikers visit continuously from spring to autumn. As autumn deepens, why not take a trip to Saryangdo Jirisan, where you can see Jirisan?

Saryangdo is reachable by a 30-minute boat ride from Tongyeong’s Gaochi Port. I took the first boat departing at 7 a.m. heading to Saryangdo.

There are four hiking courses to climb Jirisan. The representative full-course is Course 1, starting from Donji Village, passing Jirisan, Wolambong, Bulmosan, Gamabong, and Oknyobong, then descending to Jinchon Village, taking about 4 hours and 30 minutes. Although there are many dangerous sections reminiscent of military training, recently detours have been secured and safety facilities reinforced. Courses 2 and 3, starting from Okdong Village and Naeji Village respectively, take about 3 hours each. Course 4, ascending from Daehang Village to Oknyobong, takes about 1 hour and 30 minutes.

For hiking beginners, the relatively short Course 4 is recommended, but this is by no means a mountain you can climb lightly without preparation. You must wear hiking boots that firmly support your ankles and have non-slip soles, and bring drinking water. Some steep rocky sections require hiking gloves, which can be helpful.

This hike was Course 2, starting from Saryangdo Ferry Terminal, passing Oknyobong, Suspension Bridge, Gamabong, Dalbawi, Seongjaam, and descending to Okdong Port.

Oknyobong (281m), considered the highlight of Jirisan’s foothills, is not a very high peak. However, it is made up of magnificent rocky formations, offering thrilling excitement.

While climbing the stairs, Saryang Bridge and Hado Island are clearly visible to the left as if within reach. At the summit, a legend about Oknyobong is inscribed: a story of a girl who threw herself off a cliff to protect herself from her stepfather’s wrongful desire. The residents of Saryangdo, in memory of the girl’s tragic death, do not allow bride and groom to bow to each other where Oknyobong is visible. Also, when a bride passes under Oknyobong, she must get off the palanquin and walk.

After Oknyobong, the suspension bridge is just ahead. In the distance, two pedestrian suspension bridges called Ssangchulleong Bridge appear. They are 39m and 22m long, connecting Hyangbong and Yeonjibong. The panoramic curves of Jirisan’s rocky ridges unfold here, leaving you mesmerized by the scenery. Since the suspension bridge is installed at the mountain top, it sways strongly when the wind blows hard or when many people cross, making your legs tremble.

After crossing the suspension bridge, the hike continues with thrilling sections such as climbing a nearly 90° slope relying on a single rope, scrambling over rocky ridges, and crawling while bending your upper body deeply, befitting the reputation of Kalbawi Mountain.

Passing Dalbawi and the narrow Kalbawi ridge where passing others is difficult, a gentle forest path follows, leading to a fork where you can go to Seongjaam or descend to Okdong Port. If you go about 1 km further from the fork, you reach the summit of Jirisan. However, descending to Okdong Port from here is not disappointing, as you have already passed through the most scenic sections.

Jinchon Village, where the Saryangdo Ferry Terminal is located, is packed with convenience facilities for travelers such as restaurants, cafes, and tourist information centers. The restaurants mainly serve mulhoe (cold raw fish soup) abundant with seafood, and since the island is popular among anglers, the freshness is exceptional. Behind Jinchon Village is the General Choi Young Shrine of Tongyeong (Gyeongnam Cultural Property), built by residents to commemorate the general who defeated Japanese pirates from Saryangdo at the end of the Goryeo Dynasty. The shrine still holds ceremonies in the first and twelfth lunar months.

For hikers who want to enjoy camping on Saryangdo, there is a campground managed by residents at Daehang Beach, the only beach on the island. The beach, visible from Oknyobong, boasts blue waters and fine sand.

If you brought a car to the island, try driving along Sangdo Iljudo Road and Hado Iljudo Road, connected by Saryang Bridge. You can enjoy quaint village scenes of Okdong, Sagum, Donji, and Naeji, alongside emerald-colored sea. If you are lucky, you might encounter a herd of mountain goats moving along the mountain foothills. Near Deokdong Port, there is a photo zone with Saryang Bridge as the background, popular for commemorative photos.

If you are on a day trip, make sure to also visit Dipirang on your way out of Saryangdo. It is a nighttime digital theme park located in Namman Mountain Sculpture Park, beautifully blending the lost murals of Dongpirang Mural Village and Seopirang Village with the coexistence of humans and nature in a nightscape, making it enjoyable for children as well. It takes about an hour to walk along the approximately 1.3 km paved road and forest path.

Yi Sun-sin Park is also attractive. Located overlooking the sea in front of Hansando, the park combines blue sea and forest, making it a popular walking course for residents. At the entrance stands a 17.3m tall statue of Admiral Chungmugong, and the Cheonjachongtong cannon, which played a major role in repelling Japanese pirates, is exhibited.

Napoli Farm in Sanyang-eup offers a healing experience of barefoot walking through a cypress forest. If you make a reservation via portal sites or phone, you can freely walk barefoot for over an hour. Starting with a phytoncide air shower and tasting fresh cypress tea, you slowly walk along the cypress enzyme path, anion path, and horticultural therapy path. Along the way, you can observe moss with a magnifying glass or rest briefly lying in a hammock. At the end, you soak your feet in water infused with cypress oil to relieve travel fatigue.

Saryangdo (Tongyeong) = Text and photos by Cho Yong-jun, Travel Specialist jun21

◇ Travel Notes

△ Getting There = From the Seoul metropolitan area, take the Gyeongbu Expressway, pass Daejeon, then use the Tongyeong-Gan Expressway at Biryong JC, exit at Goseong IC, pass Songhak Samgeori toward Tongyeong, and go to Saryangdo Passenger Terminal Gaochi Port.

△ Attractions = Dongpirang Mural Village, Park Kyung-ri Memorial Hall, Tongyeong Cable Car, Ganggu Port, Sanyang Iljudo Road, Mireuksan Mireuksa Temple, Seopirang, and more.

△ Food = Saryangdo overflows with seafood. Restaurants are concentrated near the ferry terminal, but you can buy fresh seafood a bit cheaper at Naeji Port. Tongyeong is famous for Chungmu Gimbap, Jolbokguk (small octopus soup), Siraegiguk (dried radish greens soup), traditional pubs (Dachijip, see photo), and honey bread.