[Jo Yongjun's Journey] A Temple on the Edge of a Cliff... Rest Here for a While

Jecheon Journey to Empty the Mind - The Road to Jeongbangsa Temple Along the Inland Sea

If you climb Geumsusan along the path filled with the scent of pine trees, you will find the best scenic spot in the world. Jeongbangsa, a thousand-year-old temple, is a small temple hanging on a cliff, but when you stand in the courtyard, it is famous for its beautiful scenery overlooking Cheongpung Lake and the ridges of Wolak.

Autumn has settled in the temple house.

The way to Jeongbangsa Temple

The tranquil lake is filled with the colors of autumn.

Sunset Dyeing Cheongpung Lake

Behind Cheongpung Lake, which is beginning to be dyed in autumn colors, the Yeongbong Peak of Wolaksan Mountain can be seen.

[Asia Economy, Travel Specialist Reporter Jo Yongjun]We follow the winding Cheongpung Lake shore. The blazing energy of summer is nowhere to be found, replaced by the serene autumn scenery. The lakeside, filled with mountain shadows, flows with tranquility. A fishing boat breaks the silence, leaving a lingering impression. The narrow forest path leading to the thousand-year-old temple is home to a cluster of towering pine trees. Taking each step along the gentle slope, one can fully experience the charm of slowness and emptiness with the whole body. Inside the forest, all outside noises are blocked, and the moment you enter, anyone becomes a hermit. Jeongbangsa Temple near Cheongpung Lake, known as the inland sea and boasting the best scenery, offers an exquisite combination of forest bathing and the quietness of a mountain temple. And that's not all. From the temple courtyard hanging on the cliff edge, the view of Cheongpung Lake and the ridges of Wolak Mountain surrounding it like folding screens, extending one after another, is a masterpiece. This narrow courtyard prepared for travelers is also a place that guides those who have lost their way in their hearts. Therefore, the path to Jeongbangsa is a great place to empty your mind and heal while following the pine-scented trail.

Jeongbangsa, a thousand-year-old temple, is famous for its beautiful scenery overlooking Cheongpung Lake and the ridges of Wolak from a small temple hanging on a cliff. The route to get there is also quaint and fun. From the Cheongpung Cultural Heritage Complex side, right after crossing Cheongpung Bridge, turn right and climb a winding uphill road. On the left is a mountainside, and on the right, below the steep cliff, Cheongpung Lake and the Namhan River stretch out, opening your heart wide.

Following National Route 82 that curves around Cheongpung Lake, you will come across ES Resort and Neunggang Valley. Just after crossing a small bridge over the valley, enter the mountain path on the left. The closer you get to the temple, the steeper the slope becomes. Although you can easily reach the temple by car, trekking combined with forest bathing is recommended.

Since it is a round trip, hikers often start from the nearby ES Resort, follow the ridge to climb Jogari Peak, and descend to Jeongbangsa. This route is connected with Jadreok-gil Course 2 (Jeongbangsa Trail).

The path to Jeongbangsa is the best forest bathing trekking course. Amid various tree species, a beautiful pine forest stretches, filling the air with the fragrant scent of pine. Besides pine trees, Mongolian oak, maple, sawtooth oak, and Japanese spindle trees form a dense forest, allowing you to breathe fresh air deeply with every step. Friendly encounters with forest inhabitants like squirrels and Korean flying squirrels along the trail add to the charm.

The trail is gentle, making it suitable for chatting comfortably with companions without strain. From near Neunggang Bridge, where the forest path begins, to Jeongbangsa is about 2.6 km. Even with a round trip of 5.2 km and a visit to the temple, half a day is enough. At the forest trail entrance flows the pristine water of Neunggang Valley, a valley between Geumsu Mountain and Danbaek Peak, known as Neunggang Gugok, a famous scenic spot since the Joseon Dynasty. It contains nine pools and waterfalls.

At the temple entrance, steep stone stairs appear, and two rocks just wide enough for one person to pass face each other. Some say this is the narrowest path to enter a temple in Korea. You might wonder how a temple could exist on such a cliff, but beneath a massive folding screen rock, it hangs precariously like a swallow's nest, firmly positioned. The temple mainly consists of the cylindrical main hall and the monks' quarters, about the size of a common house. However, the surrounding scenery is outstanding.

Jeongbangsa, located on the northern ridge of Wolak Mountain National Park at the foot of Geumsu Mountain (1,016m), was founded in 662 AD during the reign of King Munmu of Silla by Monk Uisang for meditation. The main hall enshrines a wooden seated statue of Avalokitesvara Bodhisattva as the principal Buddha. Although relatively small, it well represents the typical features of mid-Joseon period Bodhisattva statues.

Standing in the temple courtyard, a breathtaking view unfolds that makes it hard to leave easily. You can take in Wolak Mountain, Cheongpung Lake, and the surroundings at a glance. Amid the sounds of nature, the ridges of Wolak and Sobaek Mountains spread like lotus petals, with the blue Cheongpung Lake nestled in the center. To the south, the sturdy back of Geumsu Mountain and the distant, faint silhouette of Wolak Mountain extending to the sky gold evoke equal depth and magnitude of emotion.

Yuwundang, where clouds are said to linger. Indeed, if you visit Jeongbangsa early in the morning, you may find clouds resting there, likely because it is located at a high mountain summit.

A monk sits gazing at the boundless sea of green. His neatly shaved head and gray robes convey the dignity of a Zen master who has spent a lifetime in ascetic practice.

The temple, where all outside noises are blocked, makes anyone who stays feel like a hermit. This narrow space prepared for travelers also serves as a place that guides those who have lost their way in their hearts.

The most beautiful time at Jeongbangsa is at sunset. As the sun slowly sets behind the western mountains, the ridges of Wolak Mountain blaze red. The sky shifts from deep blue to orange, then bursts into fiery red. Cheongpung Lake reflects this light, becoming dyed in the colors. The scenery created by the mountains and lakeside naturally slows down your descent.

After descending from Jeongbangsa, it is time to capture the autumn-colored Cheongpung Lake. This season is when Cheongpung Lake truly lives up to its name. The water, forest, and sky shine with varying shades of color. Is it a magic created by nature's palette? Sitting under the shade of a tree on the open lakeside hill, smelling the freshwater scent carried by the breeze, your heart quietly finds calm like a peaceful lake.

Cheongpung Lake was formed in 1985 by the construction of Chungju Dam. The shoreline stretches 97.2 km. Some villages in three regions?Danyang, Jecheon, and Chungju in North Chungcheong Province?were submerged, with Jecheon’s shoreline accounting for about 42 km, nearly half.

You can stop anywhere you like along the drive to enjoy the scenery. If you are driving, it is recommended to go to the Cheongpung Lake Observatory. You can drive up to Baekbongsan Maru Joomak (mountain tavern). From there, it is about a 10-minute walk to the observatory. You can overlook the spectacular view of Oksunbong Peak and Cheongpung Lake, as well as boats heading toward Oksundaegyo Bridge. If you prefer trekking over driving, you can start from the Oksunbong Rest Area near the 450m-long Oksundaegyo Bridge crossing Cheongpung Lake. The Gwaegok Fortress Wall Trail is the most popular on the Cheongpung Lake Jadreok-gil.

Boarding a cruise ship at Cheongpung Naru below the Cultural Heritage Complex allows you to enjoy the 130-ri (52 km) waterway scenery of Cheongpung Lake (Chungju Lake). Boat tours are available toward Chungju and Janghoe Naru in Danyang.

Jecheon = Written and photographed by Jo Yongjun, travel specialist jun21@

◇Travel Notes

△Getting there=From Namwonju IC on Yeongdong Expressway, transfer to Jungang Expressway and exit at Namjecheon IC. Take Local Road 82 toward Geumseong, passing Geumwolbong, Cheongpung Land, Cheongpung Cultural Heritage Complex, and Club ES, then ascend to Jeongbangsa.

△Food=Jecheon has many restaurants serving herbal and mountain vegetable meals. Representative places include Daebomyeongga, Yeolduddal Bapsang, Sanarae, and Yechon. Cheongpung Hwanggeum Tteokgalbi and Sanarae Seokgalbi are famous for their tteokgalbi (grilled short rib patties) set menus.

△Attractions=Cheongpung Lake Cable Car, Jadreok-gil, Bakdaljae Pass, Cheongpung Cultural Heritage Complex, Cheongpung Lake Jadreok-gil, Uirimji Reservoir, Baeron Holy Site, Oksunbong Peak, and Taksajeong Pavilion.