[Jeon Jin-young's Nopo Exploration] The Addictive 'Tear-Soaking' Spicy Flavor... 50-Year Tradition Shinchon Hwedra Ramen

During the 1980s Democratization Movement
Shinchon University Students' Hub
Frequented by Assemblyman Woo Sang-ho and Actor Ahn Nae-sang

[Asia Economy Reporter Jeon Jinyoung] "Why does today feel like a Friday?" By the end of the week, the shoulders and neck start to stiffen. The body feels sluggish and numb to all stimuli. A spicy flavor that clears the mind is needed. My steps naturally head toward Sinchon.

Fedra has been selling spicy ramen in Sinchon for about 50 years since 1973. The name comes from a 1960 film. It took the name of the previous owner's shop. The theme is forbidden love, and among students, there was a rumor that it was called "(so spicy) it kills you, (so delicious) you love it." The main menu was ‘Tear Gas Hangover Ramen,’ but it has recently disappeared from the menu. The reason is that it was too spicy, and many people ordered it but left it unfinished. Now, the hangover ramen is sold in two flavors: ‘spicy’ and ‘extra spicy.’ I ordered the hangover ramen spicy and also ordered fried dumplings as a side dish. Nothing beats beer to wash down the oil. When I said, "One beer and one soju, just one glass please," the auntie asked back, "Are you here alone?"

The term ‘tear gas’ attached to spicy food is inseparable from Korean history. Fedra was a hub for Sinchon university students during the democratization movement in the 1980s. The late first owner supported students who were imprisoned for protesting by providing money and bought thermal underwear for them. When the late martyr Lee Han-yeol was critically injured by tear gas, the owner provided meals to the students guarding the hospital. Because of this, regulars include Woo Sang-ho, a member of the Democratic Party and former activist at Yonsei University, as well as actors Woo Hyun and Ahn Nae-sang. Woo still stops by to greet when having gatherings in Sinchon. The owner has changed now, but since 1997, a Korean-Russian ‘auntie’ who worked closely with the first owner has been welcoming regulars.

Shinchon Fedora's 'Spicy Hangover Ramen'.

The ramen contained a few clams, a handful of bean sprouts, kimchi, and a ladle each of Cheongyang chili and red chili peppers. A spoonful of broth crunches with chili seeds. It is boiled quickly over high heat on a large burner, making the noodles firm. Just when you think "this is manageable," sweat starts dripping down your forehead. I declined the offer to try the ‘tear gas’ version, which is even spicier. My tongue tingled, and the soju-beer mix made me dizzy. Since it was made with Shin Ramyun, it was a familiar taste, but the sharp flavor kept making me drink more broth. A table of four men ordered rice to mix with the soup.

The auntie is already over seventy and said she recently took an hour to walk a 10-minute distance because of knee pain. Just as the ‘tear gas’ ramen disappeared from the menu and only ‘spicy hangover ramen’ remains, time passes and people change. Still, the reason this place remains beloved is probably because of the refreshing feeling that gradually rises after sweating out the spiciness and the somehow clear sensation it leaves behind. "Please come again anytime. Write good articles." I left the shop being seen off. Rain poured down. It was spicy and stinging. But I don’t think it was my tongue.