[Joyongjun's Travel Journey] Clouds Gathered, Autumn Opened in the Midst of Summer

A Refreshing Summer Journey to Jeongseon and Taebaek - 1330m Manhangjae and Taebaek Maebongsan Wind Hill

Even in midsummer, a cool breeze rushes in when you enter the forest trail of Manhangjae at an altitude of 1330m.

Taebaek Maebongsan Wind Hill Wind Turbine

Standing on the Wind Hill, the overwhelming view of the cabbage fields catches the eye. A farmer cultivating highland cabbage fields

Morning view of Baekdudaegan from O2 Resort

[Asia Economy, Cho Yong-jun, Travel Specialist Reporter] 32...28...24 degrees. Heatwave warnings, tropical nights, and late monsoons are all raging. Last week, when I went out for coverage, the highest temperature in Seoul was 32 degrees Celsius. Passing through Yeongwol in Gangwon-do and entering Gohan in Jeongseon, the temperature dropped to 28 degrees. When I reached Manhangjae, the highest mountain pass accessible by car in Korea, the temperature was 24 degrees. That was an 8-degree difference from Seoul. Jeongseon and Taebaek, located on a plateau, are famous as winter cities due to ski resorts and the Taebaeksan Snow Festival, but in fact, they are even better places to visit in summer. The towering Hambaksan (1,572.9m), which soars well above 1,500 meters above sea level, stands there, and below it, Manhangjae is cool enough even in the scorching midday heat. The same goes for Maebongsan Wind Hill in Taebaek. Clouds frequently drift in and out there, and wearing short sleeves can give you chills. And that's not all. The green cabbage fields offer a thrilling and moving sight.

Although the solar term Ipchu has passed, summer is still at its peak. There are about twenty more days left before summer ends. With the prolonged monsoon and more intense heatwaves than usual, enduring summer is not easy. I am heading to the coolest place in Korea: Jeongseon Manhangjae and Taebaek Wind Hill. Manhangjae is the point where Taebaek, Jeongseon, and Yeongwol meet. It is a mountain pass that crosses the foothills of Hambaksan, the sixth highest mountain in South Korea. The local road No. 414 that crosses Manhangjae is at an altitude of 1,330 meters. In terms of height, it towers over Chiaksan, Jirisan’s Imgeollyeong, and Bukhansan.

Starting from Gohan-eup Jeongamsa Temple, I ascend toward Manhangjae. Gohan-eup, located at 700 meters above sea level, recorded 28 degrees Celsius at noon. As the altitude gradually increases toward Manhangjae, the temperature drops. Mist clouds rush in near the summit. The mist crossing over the low pass quickly swallows the summit, then releases it, repeating this cycle.

At 1,330 meters above sea level, Manhangjae is the highest and most rugged paved mountain pass in Korea. Connecting Yeongwol and Jeongseon, it is so high that even in midsummer, it feels as cool as an air-conditioned room. A pleasant breeze blows through the pine trees. Tourists walk along well-maintained forest paths, breathing in fresh air deeply. This is a scene unimaginable in urban areas. The deeper you go into the forest, the cooler it gets. Every time the mist rolls in, the coolness can give you goosebumps.

The owners of Manhangjae are the wildflowers that bloom and wither throughout spring, summer, and autumn. Another name for Manhangjae is the "Garden in the Mountains." In the summer forest, flowers such as Dongjakot (Caltha palustris), Ajukkkotbangmangi (Lysimachia clethroides), Round Eupatorium (Eupatorium japonicum), Noruojum (Lysimachia vulgaris), Kirincho (Ligularia fischeri), and Long Mountain Tail Grass (Aster scaber) bloom beautifully. Enjoying summer wildflowers while walking the cool forest paths without the effort of hiking is a privilege unique to Manhangjae.

Above Manhangjae is a larch forest. The tall, straight larch trees evoke a strong sense of exoticism. Especially when the mist is thick, walking along the larch path is an indescribable experience.

Hambaksan should not be missed either. Before reaching the Manhangjae summit, if you take a side path from the Taebaek National Training Center branch, you will find a hiking trail. Although less known because it is overshadowed by Taebaeksan, Hambaksan is the sixth highest mountain in Korea. Standing at the summit, you have an unobstructed panoramic view in all directions. The clear sky and the layers of high mountain peaks spread out beneath your feet.

After descending Manhangjae, I head to Maebongsan Wind Hill, which touches the sky. Maebongsan, at 1,303 meters above sea level, is the dividing point of Baekdudaegan and Nakdongjeongmaek mountain ranges and is famous for being the largest highland cabbage field in the country. The cabbage fields filling the ridges along the mountain slopes, where clouds frequently drift in and out, are a spectacular sight.

During the cabbage harvest season, vehicle traffic is sometimes blocked, but on the day I visited, vehicles were allowed up to the summit. Entering from Samsuryeong toward Maebongsan on the left, clouds gathered. Breaking through the thick clouds, the green cabbage fields played hide and seek. The car’s thermometer quickly showed 24 degrees. I turned off the air conditioner and rolled down the window. The rolling clouds entered through the window. Taking a deep breath felt like cleansing both body and mind.

At the summit, the mist quickly cleared, revealing a picturesque scene where wind turbines and surrounding mountain slopes harmonize. The vast scale of the cabbage fields climbing up and down the mountain slopes is so immense that even when the clouds clear, it is impossible to fully grasp.

The most beautiful scene of Wind Hill is the farmers who have cultivated the rough and barren land into fertile cabbage fields. Next is the early morning scenery. When the morning sunlight spreads, the cabbage field hills turn red, and behind them, the layers of mountain ridges with clouds resting on them ripple. For travelers on vacation, I recommend visiting Wind Hill early in the morning on a clear day.

There is also a right time to see the green cabbage fields. By late August and early September, after the harvest, the fields return to their earthy color. The landscape without the green cabbage fields looks plain.

Jeongseon and Taebaek = Written and photographed by Cho Yong-jun, Travel Specialist Reporter jun21@

◇ Travel Notes

△Getting there=From the Manjong Junction on the Yeongdong Expressway, transfer to the Jungang Expressway. Exit at Jecheon Interchange and take National Route 38, passing Yeongwol, then continuing to Sabuk and Gohan. Another route is taking the Jungbu Naeryuk Expressway from Yeongdong Expressway, exiting at Gamgok Interchange, and then taking National Route 38. After passing Gohan-eup, turn right at the three-way intersection toward Jeongamsa Temple, passing Manhang Village and crossing Manhangjae. From the branch of the National Training Center, descend passing O2 Resort and Taebaek city center, heading toward Geomryongso; just before Samsuryeong, you will find the road to Wind Hill.

△Attractions=Jeongseon has the High1 Resort Skywalk. The Untan Godeungdo Trekking starting from Manhangjae is also great. There are also Samtan Art Mine, the thousand-year-old Jeongamsa Temple, Byeongbangchi Skywalk, Hwaam Cave, Jeongseon Rail Bike, and Jeongseon 5-day Market. Taebaek offers Gumoonsu, Guwau Village known as Sunflower Village, Geomryongso, the source of the Han River, Taebaeksan, Seongjangdong Mural Village, O2 Resort Observatory, 365 Safe Town, Paleozoic Natural History Museum, and Gwine-mi Village.

△Food=Taebaek’s specialty is Hanwoo beef and chicken galbi with broth. The taste of high-quality Hanwoo raw beef (photo) grilled over charcoal is exquisite. Broth chicken galbi is a dish unique to Taebaek. Sweet potatoes and rice cakes are boiled in broth, making it less greasy and light.

△Accommodation=In Jeongseon’s Sabuk and Gohan-eup, there are many accommodations ranging from inns to motels and hotels. However, High1 Resort is recommended. For summer vacations, especially for children who naturally think of water play, High1 Resort with its swimming pool and various play facilities is perfect. High1 is rapidly transforming into a family resort with various facilities for family enjoyment recently being added one after another.