[Joyongjun's Travel Journey] Purely Island and My Own Time... There's No Paradise Like This

Yeonggwang Nakwoldo - An Untouched Island by Tourists, Perfect for a Quiet Summer Vacation

Jangbeol Beach, which is as impressive as Myeongsasimni, is known as a Digeut-shaped beach. Jangbeol Beach, viewed from the Hanakwoldo trail, looks peaceful.

Sunset viewed from Jinwolgyo Bridge

The sea as seen from the pavilion rest area at Jangbeol Beach

Trail from Keungalma-gol Beach to Jinwolgyo Bridge

Sangnakwoldo Jaegemi Beach Upper Trail

Passenger ferry departing from Hyanghwado Pier, Yeonggwang

[Asia Economy Travel Specialist Reporter Jo Yong-jun] As the peak vacation season begins, COVID-19 is showing signs of resurgence. This is one reason why people hesitate to visit crowded places or popular vacation spots. However, if you feel it’s a shame to spend your vacation entirely at home, how about considering a trip to an island? Not a famous island overflowing with tourists, but a quiet island getaway. The answer is simple. Go somewhere a bit farther or less known. The farther the island from the metropolitan area and the more unfamiliar its name, the higher the chance of having a peaceful rest. With some time, effort, and a bit of convenience, you can enjoy the island trip you want. Yeonggwang Nakwoldo is exactly such an island. It is an island untouched by tourists. There isn’t even a single convenience store or restaurant in the village. But it is an island full of diverse charms. We hope you enjoy the unique pleasures of the island on the mysterious Nakwoldo.

Nakwoldo is located west of Yeonggwang-gun, Jeollanam-do. It is divided into Sangnakwoldo and Hanakwoldo, connected by Jinwolgyo Bridge. As an island untouched by tourists, if you want to avoid the hustle and bustle of summer resorts, you could even call Nakwoldo “Paradise Island” without exaggeration.

There are no marts or convenience stores on Nakwoldo. The only vending machine is in the waiting room at Sangnakwoldo Ferry Terminal. There are no restaurants either. If you book a guesthouse, you can enjoy home-cooked meals. Considering it’s an island, the meals may not be lavish but are neat and tidy. There are only a handful of guesthouses. So, it’s best to bring some snacks with you. By now, you can guess this is not a typical tourist island. The only activity is strolling along the island’s perimeter while enjoying the distant sea views, but the joy you get from this trip is the thrill of escaping city life.

The Nakwoldo Trail connects Sangnakwoldo and Hanakwoldo. Sangnakwoldo, where public facilities like the township office and health center are located, is the larger village, while Hanakwoldo, with clustered houses, is the smaller village.

It takes about 2 hours each to walk Sangnakwoldo and Hanakwoldo, so about 4 hours to complete the loop. The trail has no special markings like Jeju Olle Trail. Since it’s mostly a single path, there’s little risk of getting lost. You’ll often find benches or pavilions where you can rest as much as you want. Therefore, there’s no need to bring a car onto the island.

If you choose just one part of the trail, Hanakwoldo offers slightly better natural scenery. Usually, you turn right after crossing Jinwolgyo Bridge. Soon you’ll reach the Oeyangmaji entrance rest pavilion, where you can see the western sea, northern Sangnakwoldo, and eastern Yeonggwang inland. Walking a bit further, you’ll find a serene bamboo grove that shades the sky. Soon a fork appears: left leads to Dangneomae Hill, right continues along the coast. Dangneomae Hill will make you sweat, but standing at the octagonal pavilion observatory, the grand scenery instantly washes away your sweat. Here, the south is not an open sea to the horizon but a sea surrounded by islands, creating Nakwoldo’s spectacular view.

Jangbeol Beach is the highlight of the Nakwoldo Trail. When you look down from the trail to the cliff below, your heart naturally runs toward the beach. The cozy beach, shaped like a “ㄷ” inside the island, rivals the famous Myeongsasimni Beach. Sitting quietly in the pavilion shelter, just gazing at the sea brings peace to your mind.

If your goal is to wander rather than complete the trail, Sangnakwoldo is a good choice. Colorful fishing nets fill the path, drying in the sun. The salty smell of shrimp gently tickles your nose from the nets. Nakwoldo was once famous for its salted shrimp and was called “Little Mokpo.” The village road leads straight to the sea, where you can see Shinan-gun Jido and Imjado islands spread like ridges over the sea. On clear days, you can even see Imjadaegyo Bridge between them. Depending on the tide, the mudflats in front of the sea sometimes appear.

That doesn’t mean the Sangnakwoldo trail is dull. The green tunnel created by roadside trees and red-clawed fiddler crabs that have climbed onto the trail welcome you. If you want a short taste, go beyond Ddangjae (hill) to Geungalma Valley Beach (Sangnakwoldo Beach). It’s separated from the residential area and is almost a private beach. It’s surprising how calm a summer beach can be. Just looking at the water without dipping your feet is enough. Nakwoldo is famous for its black stones (Muksuk), and the bizarre rocks on the beach are also worth seeing.

If you can stay overnight, you should meet the end of the day at Jinwolgyo Bridge. The sun crossing the island colors the eastern Yeonggwang inland beautifully. If the timing is right, you can witness the serene scene of the moon setting after the sun sets. Nakwoldo (落月島) means “Falling Moon Island” in pure Korean. The moon sets over Nakwoldo from Beopseongpo in Yeonggwang, making the island look like a moon hanging over the sea. It is said that a Baekje royal family fleeing the Silla-Tang alliance settled on Nakwoldo when the moon set. The peaceful time on this quiet island, with its sunset and moonset, is another paradise scene preserving Nakwoldo’s charm.

Travel Specialist Reporter Jo Yong-jun jun21@

◇Travel Notes

△Getting There=Ferries to Nakwoldo operate three times a day (07:30, 10:30, 15:00) from Yeonggwang Hyanghwado Ferry Terminal, taking about 1 hour and 10 minutes. Departure times are fixed but may vary depending on tides, so be sure to check before departure.

△Attractions=In front of Hyanghwado Ferry Terminal stands the 111m tall Chilsan Tower. The tower symbolizes the scales of dried yellow corvina, waves, wind, and sun. From Chilsan Bridge, you can see islands of Muan-gun and Shinan-gun at a glance. Baeksu Coastal Road stretches about 16.8km from Gil-yong-ri to Baegam-ri in Baeksu-eup. It is the first of Yeonggwang’s nine scenic spots.