[The Future of Seochon]⑪ "If Asked About 'The Living Space of Citizens Remaining in Seoul,' It's Seochon" - Kim Won, Director of Gwangjang Architecture and Environment Research Institute

Seochon Is a Thoroughly Spontaneous Village
Long-Term Seochon Guardians Persuade Residents with Historical and Cultural Value
Seochon Must Be Preserved Even After the Blue House Relocation
Restoration Together with 'Inwangsan Regaining Its Original Form'

Photo by the individual

[Asia Economy Reporter Hwang Seoyul] Kim Won, CEO of Gwangjang Architectural Environment Research Institute, works not at an architectural office but at an 'Architectural Environment Research Institute.' The inclusion of 'environment' in the name signifies the philosophy of building only as much as necessary to minimize damage to the natural environment. He has actively engaged in environmental protection activities, such as at Donggang River and Yeongwol Dam. Throughout the interview, despite his gentle demeanor, Kim showed a firm attitude toward environmental issues. His architectural philosophy carries a long history of self-appointed 'Seochon guardian' roles and battles. Even nearing his eighties, his architectural philosophy remains actively present in everyday life.

---You have lived in Seochon since 1988. I understand you personally built your home in Okindong, Jongno-gu, Seoul. What made you settle here?

▶(Kim Won) Building and living in Seochon was half coincidence, half inevitability. When my daughter was in middle school, we lived in an apartment in Banpo due to school district reasons. Living there, I felt it was odd for an architect to live in an apartment. Apartments are built under standardized, generalized conditions. Unlike custom-built private houses tailored to individual preferences, apartments make people into petty citizens. For example, if a piece of trash falls in front of your apartment door, you don't pick it up yourself but call the security office. This is a typical example of 'petty citizenization.' On the other hand, living in a private house means you have to clear snow in front of your house yourself. I thought this was a creative way of living.

At that time, my daughter graduated middle school and entered Seoul Arts High School. Back then, Pyeongchang-dong did not have tunnels like today; it was an apple orchard. Segeomjeong was too far from Gwanghwamun and lacked public transportation. So I chose a slightly closer place, at the foot of Inwangsan, Okindong. Since first grade in middle school, my daughter had been in the mountaineering club doing climbing, and Inwangsan was like a hometown for the club. I am someone who feels good just by looking at mountains, so I fixed on Okindong and started looking for a house there.

Kim Won, CEO of Gwangjang Architectural Environment Research Institute, residential house in Okindong, Jongno-gu, Seoul / Photo by Kim Won

However, finding a house was not easy. When I asked at real estate agencies, they said there were no houses for sale. Later, I realized most residents had lived there for three or five generations. This means the neighborhood is good?stable and beloved, so no one wants to sell. So I changed my mind. Instead of only looking at houses for sale, I decided to actively pursue buying one. The real estate agents responded, 'How can you buy a house that’s not for sale?' I picked a house I liked and told the agent, 'I will pay 20% more than the market price; please talk to the owner.' After about two years, the owner contacted me to sell.

---What attracted you so much that you went to such lengths to settle here?

▶First, just being able to see Inwangsan every morning and evening allows you to absorb the mountain’s energy. Also, Seochon is a historically and culturally beloved area, within a 10-minute walk from Gwanghwamun. It is quiet with Gyeongbokgung Palace nearby, and the air is clean. Even after living here for nearly 40 years, my initial thoughts have not been wrong.

---I thought the way you built your Okindong home was unique. You kept the frame intact and built around it. Is this part of your philosophy?

▶I had the desire to demolish everything and rebuild. But thinking about the waste from concrete and rebar was dreadful. If the house had been very old and structurally unsafe, I would have had to demolish it. But the house was quite sturdy, with good sunlight and ventilation, so I thought it best to preserve it as much as possible. Besides, I am someone who talks about the environment (laughs). So I aimed for minimal renovation and repairs, and I have no complaints now.

Okin-dong House / Photo by the owner

---Now, let’s talk about Seochon. Could you explain Seochon’s architecture?

▶Seochon differs from Bukchon, which was newly built through development. It is a thoroughly naturally formed village. The narrow alleys where eaves almost touch each other prove this. This reflects the characteristic of Korean architecture that seeks mutual dependence with nature. Since houses cannot be built over waterways, they were built along the water. Then, houses were built behind existing houses, creating narrow alleys. Thus, Seochon’s houses emerged naturally. The upper part of the waterway was used for drinking water, and the lower part for sewage drainage. This arrangement maximizes the benefits of nature.

Regarding Seochon hanok (traditional houses), since interpreters and medical officers lived there, the houses are small, modest, yet substantial. For example, nobles needed large gates to enter on horseback, but Seochon hanok, despite wealth, did not outwardly display their status excessively.

Photo by the individual

---With the opening of Cheongwadae (Blue House) and new transit routes, Seochon is expected to see increased foot traffic. What might attract citizens?

▶It is the history embedded in Seochon. I personally like Seochon for this reason. Gyeongbokgung Palace, where the king lived, stretches north-south, with Inwangsan mountain long above it. Between them lies a narrow residential area?that is Seochon. The palace required many skilled workers: hat makers, leather workers, shoemakers?technocrats in modern terms. Since they could not live inside the palace, they had to live as close as possible. Thus, Seochon became the main residential area for the middle class.

Among them, interpreters were wealthy and highly conscious individuals. When sending envoys to China, interpreters accompanied them. Modernly speaking, business trip expenses were enormous, so they were allowed to raise funds locally. The best way was to bring valuable Joseon goods like Joseon paper and Korean ginseng to sell at high prices in China, bringing in large sums. Then, they bought precious Chinese goods desired by Joseon people, such as glasses, and sold them back in Joseon.

※Technocrat: A person who exerts significant influence on social organizational decision-making through scientific knowledge or specialized skills.

Interpreters bought books and observed culture, advancing their consciousness. Being conscious and wealthy, they became forces for social reform. Despite being middle class, they imitated nobles by writing poetry. Thus, Seochon had poetry societies. Records say there were 30 poetry societies in Seochon. Sometimes, when a medical officer was treating the king with acupuncture, the king would inquire about news from the poetry societies. In short, Seochon was a connection point and a history of exchange between social classes. ‘Songseokwon,’ famous as a gathering place for poetry societies founded by middle-class Cheon Sugyeong, even hosted the renowned scholar Kim Jeonghui. These poetry societies remained little known until former Mayor Lee Myung-bak promised redevelopment of Seochon, sparking opposition and bringing attention to them.

---I believe you were active as a Seochon guardian during the redevelopment wave. Could you explain the situation then?

▶Residents wanted redevelopment because their houses were old, alleys narrow, and there was no parking. I opposed this and was even ostracized by residents. Some protested in front of my house. Professor Heo Kyung-jin of Yonsei University’s Korean Literature Department helped a lot. She researched the literary activities of Seochon’s middle class. Also, Professor Jung Ok-ja, then chair of the National Institute of Korean History, supported us. Thanks to them emphasizing Seochon’s historical importance, the anti-redevelopment movement gained strength, residents understood its significance, and redevelopment was eventually canceled. It was a long battle.

Seochon Village, Jongno-gu, Seoul. Photo by Jinhyung Kang aymsdream@

---It must have been difficult to persuade residents then?

▶To convince residents not to build apartments, I served as a committee member of the Okindong Redevelopment Promotion Committee. I proposed alternatives like ‘no buildings over five stories, no large-scale apartments, and building tower-type structures to allow views in all directions.’ But persuasion failed, so I became an emergency response committee member. Fortunately, residents eventually understood that preservation was more beneficial than redevelopment. Professor Heo helped by uncovering historical facts about each location, such as places with anomalies or where figures like Yun Dong-ju lived.

---With Cheongwadae’s relocation, change in Seochon is inevitable. What are your thoughts on Seochon’s development?

▶As I said at length, Seochon has historical and cultural value in every corner. Therefore, preservation is the answer. When people think of Seoul, Gyeongbokgung Palace comes to mind, but the remaining living spaces for citizens are in Seochon. It differs from the constructed Bukchon. Until now, Cheongwadae’s presence imposed some regulations, like height limits and no permits for large apartments. Thanks to this, Seochon survived. So, even if regulations are lifted, there should be no development frenzy or demolitions; preservation is best.

However, we must find ways to develop focusing on quality rather than quantity or size. I advocate restoring Inwangsan’s original state, like former Mayor Ko Gun’s restoration of Namsan. Inwangsan is a deep mountain, so much so that stories of tigers appearing exist. But during the Kim Shin-jo incident under President Park Chung-hee, an asphalt road was built for operations. This blocked and dried up Inwangsan’s good spring water. Now that Cheongwadae is gone, the asphalt should be removed, and pedestrian trails created to restore Inwangsan.

Boston Freedom Trail in Boston, Massachusetts, USA / Photo by Wikipedia

---Are there examples of harmonious changes in historic places like Seochon?

▶The Freedom Trail in Boston, USA. It preserves the rocky hill where the Pilgrim Fathers first docked and the Liberty Bell. It is the street where America was born as a free nation. Korea also has Mokpo’s opening period street from the modern era. Buildings like financial cooperatives and Japanese houses reveal history.

※Boston Freedom Trail: The Freedom Trail is a red line drawn on roads in Boston, Massachusetts, USA, guiding visitors to 16 historic sites. Boston has been the political, cultural, and academic center of the USA since 1620 when English Puritans, the Pilgrim Fathers, landed seeking religious freedom. During the British colonial era, it was the administrative center and a key player in American independence alongside Philadelphia in the 18th century. Despite high-rise buildings, Boston preserves historical sites down to door handles and alleys. (Source: Naver Encyclopedia)

※Pilgrim Fathers: People who settled in Plymouth, Massachusetts, the first English colony in New England in 1620 during the North American colonial period. (Source: Naver Encyclopedia)

---In what direction should Seochon evolve?

▶Currently, the Cultural Heritage Administration is restoring the Woldae (stone platform) at Gwanghwamun. Originally, Gwanghwamun had not only the gate but also the Woldae. However, when President Park Chung-hee restored Gwanghwamun, only the gate was restored. If the Woldae is restored as originally planned, the road crossing from Gwanghwamun Square to Gyeongbokgung will be blocked, allowing entry to Gyeongbokgung without traffic lights. With Cheongwadae and Bukaksan now open, a vast belt will be created from the Admiral Yi Sun-sin statue to the top of Bukaksan. This will not be just a park but a historical and cultural park. If expanded, it could include Inwangsan and Seochon. This would create a space in Seoul akin to New York’s Central Park. Unlike Central Park, which lacks historical culture, this space has greenery, a royal palace, and the presidential residence, making it highly meaningful.