[Future of Seochon]⑤ "People are cultural content... We must protect the foundation from being lost" - Kim Youngshim, GastroTong CEO

European restaurants 'GastroTong' and 'La Suisse' located in Tongui-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul. They boast a vintage atmosphere with European-style windows in a traditional house over 100 years old. (Photo by CEO Kim Young-sim)

[Asia Economy Reporter Tae-min Ryu] Walking through the quaint alleys of Seochon, one notices a Japanese-style house featuring European-style windows. Maintaining the frame of a house over 100 years old while elegantly preserving its vintage charm, this place is the Swiss restaurant ‘Gastro Tong,’ operated by Swiss-born Chef Roland Heini and his wife, CEO Kim Young-sim. The name Gastro Tong combines the French word for gourmet, ‘Gastro,’ and ‘Tong (通),’ referring to Tongui-dong.

The couple settled here in 2011, before the area became bustling with visitors, drawn by the warmth of the old house and the humble alleys. This historic house, built during the Japanese colonial period, remains unaltered, preserving its original appearance and evoking a strong sense of European tradition. Over the past few years, Seochon has rapidly transformed with many trendy restaurants and cafes, but Gastro Tong has maintained its unique, comfortable, and familiar atmosphere for 11 years. On the 17th, we met CEO Kim Young-sim, a longtime resident of Tongui-dong, to hear about Seochon’s charm and its future changes.

Chef Roland Heini and CEO Youngshim Kim, the couple operating 'Gastro Tong' and 'La Suisse'. (Photo by Youngshim Kim)

---You have lived in Tongui-dong for a long time. What do you think is Seochon’s charm from a resident’s perspective?

▶(Kim Young-sim) I believe Seochon’s greatest feature is that it has preserved its traditional cultural character, even within a vast city. Unlike downtown Seoul, densely packed with high-rise buildings, Seochon’s charm comes from the harmonious blend of low-rise buildings such as hanok and Japanese colonial houses, along with quaint alleys. When I feel the historic and warm neighborhood atmosphere, the word ‘village’ seems perfectly fitting.

---How did you come to settle here?

▶My husband worked in various countries around the world, so we lived apart for a while. After deciding to settle in Korea, we planned to open a restaurant together. While searching for a location, my husband set four conditions: it had to be close to home, a historic house over 100 years old rather than a high-rise building, located in a quiet area away from main roads, and have ample parking space. Searching for a place that met all these conditions led us to Seochon. The building where Gastro Tong is currently located was built in 1905, making it a historic site over 100 years old.

---Were there any difficulties in running the restaurant?

▶When we opened the restaurant, there were many complaints from the neighborhood. At that time, most restaurants were located on main roads, so our shop, situated in an alley surrounded mostly by residential houses, was unfamiliar territory for residents unaccustomed to noise. Even the interior remodeling process was not easy. Now, most of the area is used for restaurants, cafes, and commercial buildings, so there are no significant issues. We started with one hanok, but have expanded to use a total of three houses.

On the weekend of the 15th, the first since the Blue House opened to the public, many citizens visited the Blue House in Jongno-gu, Seoul. In response to the sharp increase in pedestrian traffic due to the full opening of the Blue House, the Seoul Metropolitan Government is conducting a pilot operation of a car-free street in front of the Blue House (from Hyoja-dong Fountain to Chun Chu Gate) during the Blue House opening event period. Photo by Yoon Dong-ju doso7@

---It has been a week since the Blue House was opened to the public. Have you noticed any changes?

▶An astonishing number of people have come. Previously, most visitors were ‘big spenders’ such as Blue House guests or corporate clients visiting for business meetings, so there was concern when the presidential office relocation was announced. However, since the Blue House opened to the public, the number of tourists has greatly increased, filling that gap. Many visitors come with family or as couples, so the age range has diversified. Not only our restaurant but also other eateries in the area are fully booked with no vacancies.

The disappearance of rallies and protests in the area is also a significant change. Previously, weekend protests caused traffic paralysis and various inconveniences. When protests intensified, some weekend visitors even turned back without visiting. During the height of candlelight protests, I once had to take a mountain path home because the road was blocked. Now that these issues have disappeared, I believe the local commercial district will revive further.

---What are your expectations following the Blue House relocation?

▶I hope it will become a representative tourist destination showcasing Korea’s traditional culture. Major European tourist spots like Florence and Prague have preserved their old-town atmosphere. Seochon, with its alleys lined with hanok and Japanese colonial houses, is an ideal space to express traditional charm. Additionally, its location right next to Gyeongbokgung Palace offers excellent accessibility for both domestic and international tourists. If the space vacated by the Blue House is well utilized to enhance cultural value, it could truly become a stylish ‘Old Town.’

---As a resident, how would you like the remaining Blue House space to be used?

▶I hope it remains open as a historical and cultural space accessible to citizens. While Gyeongbokgung Palace was the royal palace of the Joseon Dynasty kings, the Blue House could serve as a ‘modern palace’ preserving traces of South Korea’s presidents. The Blue House interior contains many historical sites such as the presidential office, and the extensive green garden with valleys, ponds, and flowers is vast. If outdoor concerts were held in the spacious yard, it would increase cultural attractions and invigorate the Seochon area. In the past, Ikseon-dong was popular but lacked cultural attractions despite many restaurants and cafes, so it remained a temporary trend. Conversely, the more elements that attract people, the more Seochon can maintain its unique character.

The streets of Samcheong-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul, are showing a quiet scene. Photo by Jinhyung Kang aymsdream@

---On the other hand, there are concerns as development potential grows. What worries you?

▶I am very concerned about excessive commercialization. When tourists and crowds gather, large capital may see it as an opportunity to make big money and enter the area. Looking at Samcheong-dong, large brands and franchise stores flooded in, completely changing the area’s original character.

I also worry about gentrification. When tourists flock and commercial activity increases, landlords may raise rents sharply, forcing long-standing small business owners to leave. If small business owners with their own unique styles lose their place, the beautiful scenery of Seochon may disappear into history.

※ Gentrification

Refers to the phenomenon where a deteriorated old city area is revitalized by the influx of middle-class or higher-income groups, replacing the original low-income residents.

---There are also concerns about indiscriminate development. What do you think?

▶Yes. Even among residents, there are voices worried about losing the area’s unique character. If high-rise buildings over five stories are constructed, the urban landscape here will inevitably be damaged. I hope measures will be taken to ensure orderly development under government supervision. Only then can Seochon’s cultural character be preserved for a long time.

---With the Blue House annex buildings vacating, there will be ample space. As a resident, what would you like to see there?

▶I thought it would be great to use it as a ‘Silicon Valley’-type space where young entrepreneurs can pursue their dreams. It offers cultural diversity and is near Bukaksan and Inwangsan mountains, which are good for refreshing the mind. The influx of young people could bring vibrant energy to the neighborhood and help revitalize the area.

---What values of Seochon should be preserved going forward?

▶I believe each resident living here is Seochon’s content. The current Seochon culture was created and has lasted because the villagers had a foundation to create their own spaces. If these people leave, Seochon will inevitably lose its unique character. I hope various institutional supports and measures will be established to protect residents from losing their homes and being displaced due to indiscriminate development.