[Jo Yongjun's Travel Journey] On the Way to Stargazing... Captivated by the Boundless Scenery

The Land of Isusamsan (Two Waters and Three Mountains), Yeongcheon, Gyeongbuk Journey

If you walk along the forest path for about 20 minutes from the Bohyeonsan Observatory parking lot and stand at the summit of Sirubong, the mountain village you passed will be seen far below, and beyond it, unnamed ridges overlap like a folding screen.

The Road to Bohyeonsan Observatory

Sian Art Museum in Garaeul Cultural Village

Art Museum Utilizing a Closed School

Imgo Seowon Academy Honoring the Scholarship and Virtue of Poeun Jeong Mong-ju

Bohyeonsan Observatory

Orijangrim Designated as a Natural Monument

[Asia Economy, Yongjun Cho, Travel Specialist] The foremost historic site in Yeongcheon, Gyeongbuk, is Imgo Seowon, where the scholarly virtue of Poeun (圃隱) Jeong Mong-ju (1337?1392) is enshrined. Jeong Mong-ju was a loyal subject who lost his life at Seonjukgyo Bridge while defending the Goryeo dynasty against the founding forces of Joseon. Next in prominence is Bohyeonsan Astronomical Observatory. Whether you come to stargaze or not, the winding road to the observatory is thrilling. When you park at the observatory’s lot, you must not miss the 'Cheonsu Nurim-gil' trail leading to Siru Peak (1,124m). This trail slowly ascends the high mountain over 1,000 meters, offering a magnificent panoramic view without any obstructions. In Hwasan-myeon, there is Gasang-ri (佳上里), meaning 'Beautiful Upper Village.' True to its gentle and refined name, the village is filled with pure and serene beauty. That’s not all. There is also the Ori Jangrim (五里長林), designated as Natural Monument No. 404. As its name suggests, this 'long forest' once stretched for 5 ri (about 2 km) and was established 400 years ago. Although the forest, once full of royal willows, Quercus variabilis, pagoda trees, zelkova trees, and hackberries, is now dwarfed, the majestic presence of the surviving ancient trees that have endured harsh times remains impressive. When it comes to forests, one cannot overlook the tranquil pine forest path along the stream leading to Eunhaesa Temple on the slopes of Palgongsan Mountain.

◇ Stargazing or Scenery? Bohyeonsan Astronomical Observatory and Siru Peak’s 'Cheonsu Nurim-gil'

Yeongcheon has long been known as the land of 'Two Waters and Three Mountains' (Isu Samsan). Bohyeonsan is the source of the east and west flowing Jahocheon and Gohyeoncheon streams, which form the Geumho River, representing the 'two waters.' The 'three mountains' refer to Bohyeonsan in the north, Unjusang in the east, and Palgongsan in the west. Bohyeonsan symbolizes Yeongcheon. Its mountain shape is soft, resembling a shield or a traditional Korean hat (satgat). It is also called Moja Mountain (Mother and Child Mountain) or Jamo Mountain (Loving Mother Mountain) because it looks like a mother holding a child. Another story says the mountain’s grandeur resembles a giant elephant, hence the name Bohyeonsan.

Bohyeonsan became more famous after the Bohyeonsan Astronomical Observatory was established in April 1994. It houses the largest reflecting telescope in Korea with a 1.8-meter aperture and a solar flare telescope.

Bohyeonsan is not only for stargazing but also a must-visit for driving and hiking. From the Starlight Theme Village at the foot of Bohyeonsan to the observatory is about an 8 km winding mountain road. The road zigzags and climbs repeatedly. The pavement is in good condition, but the curves and steep slopes require careful driving.

Upon arriving at the observatory parking lot, you will see a forest trail opposite the lot. This is the 'Cheonsu Nurim-gil' trail, created near the southern foothills of the observatory at about 1,000 meters above sea level. Although it does not guarantee longevity, it is certainly a path to enjoy heavenly nature.

The trail is about 1 km to Siru Peak, the western summit of Bohyeonsan, taking roughly 20 minutes at a leisurely pace. Wooden decks cover the entire path. There are no stairs up to the midpoint, making it easy for anyone to walk. There are a couple of stair sections near the summit, but it is still an easy stroll. The trail is wide enough for two people to walk side by side, and the peaceful path causes no knee joint pain. Occasionally, music drifts from somewhere?songs learned from childhood music books. An unknown bird flutters through the sky.

There are two rest areas and observation decks along the trail shaped like stars when viewed from above. This is a point of pride for the mountain that hosts Korea’s top astronomical observatory. From the observation decks, the mountain villages you passed are seen far below, with unnamed ridges layered like folding screens beyond.

Standing on Siru Peak, named for its resemblance to a traditional Korean rice cake steamer (tteok-siru), the view is spectacular. A grand panorama unfolds, different from the forest trail. On clear days, you can see Palgongsan Mountain of the Palgong mountain range, Hwasan, and even distant Seonamsan, Geumseongsan, and Pohang at a glance. Nearby, the Bohyeonsan Dam lake lies green in the mountain’s shadow.

Looking down toward the observatory, you can see the exhibition hall with its round dome roof, the red-walled research building, and the tall rectangular building housing the 1.8-meter telescope at the summit.

Some say that if you come to Bohyeonsan, you must see the stars to feel satisfied; others say the sunrise and sunset are beautiful. But even during the 'starless' daytime, the mountain offers such majestic scenery. Slightly regretful of missing the sunset, I move on to the next destination.

◇ The New Dream Journey to the Peach Blossom Land: Garaesil Cultural Village, an Open-Air Art Museum

Gasang-ri in Hwasan-myeon means 'Beautiful Upper Village.' The Sambucheon stream flows through the village center, and Baekhaksan Mountain gently rises behind it.

Gasang-ri was selected as an art village under the 'Village Art Happiness Project' with the name 'New Dream Journey to the Peach Blossom Land' (Shin Mongyudowondo). Artists and sculptors who came to the village lived with the residents for a while and beautified the village. They carefully painted and crafted art in places that harmonize with the village.

Empty houses left vacant for decades became impressive art objects themselves, and the villagers’ past memories were preserved in a modest museum. The four villages of Gasang-ri became one open-air art museum. Among them, Garaesil Alley is a 'walking path.' From 2016 to 2018, the 'Garaesil Cultural Village' project transformed the area once again. Some things disappeared, some new things appeared, and some things remain steadfast.

The start of the New Dream Journey to the Peach Blossom Land tour is the Sian Art Museum, surrounded by large plane trees. Hwadoong Elementary School, which once had 400 students, was closed in 1999 due to a lack of students, and the art village center was established there in 2004. The museum, repurposed from the closed school, is surprisingly elegant. Not only the well-maintained building and the various themed exhibitions but also the wide lawn and the surrounding large plane trees captivate visitors.

Next to the museum is 'Open Green,' a small forest space. An architectural design company built a building with nine pyeong (about 30 square meters) of indoor space and six pyeong (about 20 square meters) of deck in the forest. This space, born from an architectural experiment asking 'What is the minimum space needed for us to be happy?' is a hideout. The building currently serves as a party house, suitable for events like first birthday parties or small weddings. Nearby are small huts called 'Homing' and a picnic zone.

Following the path beside the museum into the village, you will find a craft experience center where you can learn natural dyeing, hand sewing, embroidery and knotting, baking, woodworking, and more.

The walking alleys are quiet but lively. Mountains unfold, and a waterfall of metal beads pours from the wall. You are enveloped by Van Gogh’s swirling stars and listen closely between the Little Prince and the Fox sitting side by side. The old village hall is now a 'village museum,' containing the lives of the villagers and their simple lifestyle. With the end of COVID-19, we hope the quiet alleys will become bustling again.

◇ Imgo Seowon Honoring Poeun Jeong Mong-ju’s Scholarship and the Majestic Ancient Trees of Ori Jangrim

The foremost historic site in Yeongcheon is Imgo Seowon, a facility honoring the scholarly virtue of Poeun Jeong Mong-ju, a native of this area. Poeun is one of the 'Three Loyal Scholars' along with Lee Saek and Gil Jae. He established the Obu Academy and Hyanggyo Confucian school in the late Goryeo period to teach younger generations and laid the foundation of Neo-Confucianism. However, historically, he is better known as the loyalist who opposed the founding forces of Joseon and was killed by Yi Bang-won’s faction at Seonjukgyo Bridge in Gaeseong.

In front of the seowon courtyard, there are stone monuments inscribed with 'Dansimga' (Song of Single Mind) expressing his feelings at the time and 'Baekroga,' a poem said to have been written by his mother. Near an old ginkgo tree, a replica of Seonjukgyo Bridge is set up. From Joongdae, where Poeun enjoyed fishing, you can see the entire area. A 2.2 km walking trail connects this spot to his parents’ graves.

Along National Road No. 35, connecting Hwanam-myeon to Hwabeok-myeon, there is Ori Jangrim, designated as a natural monument. It is also called 'Jacheon Forest' after its location in Jacheon-ri. As the name suggests, this 'long forest' once stretched for 5 ri (about 2 km) and was a preservative forest established 400 years ago. In reality, the forest is now very small. Once full of royal willows, Quercus variabilis, pagoda trees, zelkova trees, and hackberries, more than half of it was lost to Typhoon Saola. The remaining forest was split in two by the national road expansion, reducing it to less than 2 ri. However, the majestic presence of the surviving ancient trees that have endured harsh times remains impressive.

Yeongcheon = Written and photographed by Yongjun Cho, travel specialist jun21@

◇ Travel Notes

△ Getting There = From the Seoul metropolitan area, take the Yeongdong Expressway to Yeoju Junction, then the Jungbu Naeryuk Expressway to Nakdong Junction, head toward Yeongdeok, exit at Dong-Yeongcheon IC, then go toward Yeongcheon and Imgo. Turn left at Yanghyang Intersection to reach Imgo Seowon.

△ Attractions = Palgongsan Eunhaesa Temple, Dolhalmae, Yeongcheon Traditional Market, Hoenggye Valley, Yeongcheon Dam Cherry Blossom Road, and the submerged village of Eunhasu Village, among others.