Burberry, The Secret Behind the Iconic 'Trench Coat' [Hidden Industry Story]

Burberry, a Leading British Luxury Brand Founded in 1856
Famous for Its Signature Check Pattern and Trench Coats
Burberry Embracing 'Digital Technology'

Burberry AW show held in London on February 17th (local time).
[Image source=AP Yonhap News]

[Asia Economy Reporter Heo Midam] Beige-tone trench coats, checkered scarves...

These are the images that come to mind when thinking of the British luxury brand 'Burberry'. Just like the saying "Classics are eternal," timeless classic designs have been loved by many for a long time despite changing eras. Perhaps this is why every year when the cool breeze blows, people naturally think of Burberry's trench coats. How did Burberry become synonymous with trench coats?

Burberry Loved by the British Army and Audrey Hepburn

Founder of the British luxury brand 'Burberry', Thomas Burberry. Photo by Burberry

The trench coat is considered the most British style item that anyone can wear for a long time regardless of age or gender. Especially, Burberry, founded in 1856 by Thomas Burberry, is now regarded as the "symbol of the classic trench coat."

Burberry's trench coat history began with a fabric created by Thomas Burberry. Working at a textile shop, Thomas Burberry opened his own store in Basingstoke, Hampshire, southern England, in 1856.

Knowing that there was a high demand for waterproof outerwear due to the rainy British weather, he personally engaged in material development to attract consumers' attention.

As a result, in 1879, he created a new fabric called "gabardine." Unlike the heavy and rough functional materials of the time, this fabric was waterproof yet lightweight, making it highly versatile.

Later, in 1888, Thomas Burberry patented gabardine and launched outdoor products such as hiking clothes, fishing wear, and camping tents, achieving great success.

Accelerating growth, Burberry introduced the "tielocken" coat made from gabardine fabric in 1912. This coat, characterized by being fastened with a belt instead of buttons, was greatly loved by British soldiers who shivered in the cold and rain during World War I.

Influenced by this, the coat was later called the trench coat (named after trenches?ditches dug along defensive lines in battlefields to hide and fight enemies) and became Burberry's iconic item.

Even after the war ended, the British army and others continued to enjoy wearing trench coats in daily life. During its ongoing popularity, in 1961, the film 'Breakfast at Tiffany's' starring Audrey Hepburn and British royal Diana, Princess of Wales, wearing Burberry trench coats, further boosted its fame.

Burberry's 'Period of Trial' in the 1990s

Women wearing Burberry trench coats. Photo by Burberry

Burberry also faced moments of crisis. In the 1990s, due to excessive popularization, the brand's status as a luxury label declined, and young consumers showed little interest in the brand itself because the designs were not much different from those of the older generation.

As a result, concerns arose that Burberry's growth momentum was waning. Amid ongoing deliberations, in January 1999, the brand name was changed from 'BURBERRYS' to 'BURBERRY', but the situation did not improve.

Ultimately, to innovate the brand, in May 2001, Burberry hired Christopher Bailey, former chief designer of Gucci, to take charge of design.

Christopher Bailey preserved Burberry's tradition while incorporating new materials such as metal decorations and metallic leather, and skillfully blended British punk culture to create a more experimental and daring young Burberry image.

Thanks to these efforts, Burberry, which had been declining in the 1990s, successfully revived in the 2000s, and Christopher Bailey was recognized for his achievements and appointed CEO of Burberry in April 2014.

Burberry Captures the 'Millennial Generation' Using Digital Technology

A photo taken and uploaded by Burberry employees in front of their house last July. Photo by Burberry

Burberry is one of the leading luxury brands in utilizing digital technology.

Burberry's attempt to transform into a digital company began after Angela Ahrendts became CEO in 2006. She redefined Burberry as a "digital media company." Angela made a decisive move to lead digital innovation, valuing "luxury democracy" over the "scarcity" that luxury brands traditionally pursue.

Since then, she established digital technologies and platforms in product and marketing aspects to grow Burberry as a "digital media company."

This bold attempt manifested in various ways. In September 2009, Burberry live-streamed its fashion show held in London through online channels. This allowed 100 million people worldwide to watch the show simultaneously, and foreign media at the time praised it as "a show that was once limited to fashion insiders became popularized," reporting that "Burberry made a significant mark in fashion history."

In the same year, Burberry launched a social networking service (SNS)-style website called "Art of the Trench." This site was a space where anyone wearing a Burberry trench coat could upload their photos, enabling consumers to interact with various people wearing Burberry trench coats.

In 2010, Burberry introduced digital interactive technology in its advertising campaigns. Consumers could use this technology to zoom in and rotate products featured in the campaigns, creating an on-site shopping experience online as if they were in a store.

Last July, due to the COVID-19 pandemic limiting outdoor activities, Burberry employees successfully executed viral marketing with a "contactless" photo shoot concept by filming the new collection line right in front of their homes.