[Jo Yongjun's Journey Manli] Spring in Uljin: Capture, See, Eat

Uljin Spring Journey - Seasonal Snow Crab, Bulyoung Valley, Deunggi Mountain Skywalk with Abundant Sights and Food

The Bulyoungsa Valley, frozen throughout the winter, has awakened with the spring breeze. A traveler is taking a commemorative photo in the valley.

The sea in front of Wolseongjeong, one of the Gwandong Palgyeong trails

The reflection of Buleungsa Temple in the pond is serene.

If you drive along the coastal road of Uljin, spring has quietly arrived.

Hupo Deunggisan Skywalk, Established as a Landmark of Uljin

Seasonal Uljin snow crabs have been deliciously cooked in a cauldron.

Agu Clear Soup, Boiled Octopus, Raw Julgajami Fish, Spicy Mixed Jjamppong, Seafood, Steamed and Dried Snow Crab Legs (Photo clockwise from top left)

[Asia Economy Reporter Yongjun Cho, Travel Specialist] Although winter’s jealousy lingers, the East Sea and forests of Uljin, Gyeongbuk, are filled with the breath of spring. The further south you go, the warmer and cozier the breeze becomes. The theme of this journey is spring. One highlight is the Uljin Gwandong Palgyeong Trail that runs along the deep blue East Sea. The path is endlessly beautiful with stories told by the waves, pine forests, and wind. Another is Bulyoungsa Temple and Bulyoung Valley, nestled in a forest boasting the majestic straight trunks of Korean red pines (Geumgangsong). The spring flavors also take their place with plump, chewy snow crabs, red crabs (Hongge), octopus, and julga-jami (a type of flounder). And that’s not all. The Deunggisang Skywalk at Hupo Port is a path that lets you walk above the sea. With transparent glass beneath your feet, you can see the blue East Sea below, experiencing the thrill of walking on the sea. Seongryugul Cave and hot spring baths are also must-visits. Let’s embark on an early spring journey to Uljin, where both the eyes and palate will be delighted.

◇Seeing Spring ? Spring Follows When Running the Haeparang Trail Gwandong Palgyeong Course

The Haeparang Trail means walking with the sun rising over the East Sea and the blue sea as your friends. It starts from Oryukdo in Busan and stretches all the way to the Unification Observatory in Goseong, Gangwon-do, covering a total of 770 km. The Uljin section covers courses 23 to 27, spanning 78.3 km. It fully captures the scenic beauty of the East Coast and the bittersweet lives of the coastal people. The Gwandong Palgyeong Trail is a 25 km section from Mangyangjeong in Sanpo-ri, Uljin-gun, to Wolsongjeong in Pyeonghae-eup. Following the spectacular views of the East Sea, the Gwandong Palgyeong Trail offers a dazzling gift of a simple and cozy small harbor landscape to those burdened by daily life.

Mangyangjeong is located on a hill near Mangyang Beach where the Wangpicheon River meets the East Sea. Climbing the winding stairs beside Mangyangjeong Hoesikdang through the pine forest, you reach the summit where Mangyangjeong pavilion stands gracefully. From the pavilion, you can see the Wangpicheon River flowing into the sea below the pine-covered hill, the white sandy beach of Mangyang Beach, and the vast open sea all at once. It has long been famous as a place to watch the sunrise and the moon.

Descending from Mangyangjeong, the coastal path begins at Sanpo 4-ri. The sea features various rock formations such as Turtle Rock and Candle Rock, and across the water, a village with low rooftops sits warmly.

Following the back alley behind Pyeonghae Middle School, you encounter a magnificent forest, the clan forest of the Pyeonghae Hwang family. It has dense pine trees, a pavilion, and a well-maintained pond. From a small rest area, the Wolsongjeong path begins. Passing the reconstruction monument at the entrance, you ascend to Wolsongjeong. Below are pine trees and the distant sea. The place is imbued with stories of ancestors and frozen moments filled with memories.

Sitting in the pavilion, you imagine the coastal path you have walked. The stories told by the sea, trees, and wind pass vividly before your eyes. On the white sandy beach in front of Wolsongjeong, people enjoying early spring delight in the waves rolling in.

◇Capturing Spring ? Bulyoung Valley Awakened by Green Energy and Bulyoungsa Temple Harmonized with Korean Red Pines

Bulyoungsa Temple is a branch temple of Bulguksa in Gyeongju and belongs to the Jogye Order’s 11th district. It is said to have been founded in 651 during the reign of Queen Jindeok of the Silla Dynasty and is currently a temple where Buddhist nuns practice. Passing through the Iljumun gate and walking about 1 km amidst the majestic Korean red pines and rocky mountains, you reach Bulyoungsa. This path was selected in 2012 by the Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism as one of the '99 Must-Visit Tourist Sites for Koreans.'

At the entrance of Bulyoungsa, there is a pond that reflects the temple’s scenery like a mirror. It is said that the shadow of a Buddha-shaped rock is reflected in this pond, which is why the temple is called Bulyoungsa.

At the entrance of the Daeungjeon Hall, two turtles stretch their necks out, but their bodies are inside the ceiling of the hall in miniature form. Because Bulyoungsa was frequently destroyed by fire, turtles were placed beside the stairs leading to Daeungjeon to suppress the fire energy. When fires continued, the bodies were placed inside the hall. Remarkably, since the bodies were placed there, no fires have occurred.

Leaving Bulyoungsa, you head to Bulyoungsa Valley. The valley stretches 15 km from Haenggok-ri in Geunnam-myeon to Hawon-ri in Geumgangsong-myeon, featuring spectacular scenery with bizarre rock formations and clear valley water. It was designated as Scenic Site No. 6 in 1979 and is popular as a summer retreat and a driving course. There are two observatories (Bulyoungjeong and Seonyujeong) with panoramic views of the valley, as well as scenic spots like Uisangdae and Buddha Rock that are perfect for the eyes and cameras.

Between the vertically rising cliffs, the valley water awakened by spring flows with a roaring sound. At the pavilions and rest areas scattered here and there, you can enjoy magnificent views overlooking the grand gorge.

◇Tasting Spring ? Plump Snow Crab, Red Crab, Octopus, and Julga-jami Sashimi Full of Spring Flavors

Hupo Port is the place to truly savor chewy and mild-flavored snow crab. As Korea’s largest snow crab production area, it bustles every February and March with people eager to taste snow crab. This year, the festival was canceled due to the novel coronavirus, but the snow crabs, fattened by the winter cold, tempt gourmets with their plump meat.

Snow crab is not named for its size. The eight leg joints extending from the body resemble dry bamboo, hence the name daege (snow crab).

The home of Uljin snow crab is the Wangdolcho area, 23 km east of Hupo Port. There is a huge reef called Wangdolcho under the sea. In fact, both Uljin and Yeongdeok snow crabs are caught here.

Snow crabs are steamed whole in a steamer or eaten in soup. The meat becomes tougher and saltier with heat, so simple steaming is preferred. Wangdolhoesusan in Hupo Port is famous for snow crabs and red crabs steamed traditionally in a cauldron. Especially, the owner’s generous hospitality and honesty make first-time customers lifelong patrons. The flavor steamed in a cauldron is more savory than that steamed in a regular steamer. When you pick up a snow crab leg piled high on a tray, break the joint and pull, the shiny white meat inside the shell comes out.

The crab body part, mixed with a few drops of sesame oil and hot rice, is a delicacy among delicacies. There is also the red crab called Hongge. The fattened Hongge is as delicious as snow crab and popular among gourmets. Until last year, Hongge was half the price of snow crab, but this year, Hongge prices have risen to be similar to snow crab.

Besides snow crab, boiled octopus and wild julga-jami sashimi are must-tries at this time. When the freshness of the sea enters your mouth, the taste is simply 'moving.' After eating snow crab at Hupo Port, if you crave a cup of coffee, we recommend 'Coffee Hanmogeum' on the coastal road under Deunggisang Skywalk. The red trailer painted with yellow sunflowers catches the eye.

At the dock-side instant sashimi restaurant in Jukbyeon Port, clear monkfish soup is served with a milky broth that is not fishy but savory. Also, 'Jeil Banjeom' in Jukbyeon traditional market is currently the most famous Chinese restaurant in Uljin. It serves stir-fried squid, onions, and other vegetables with chili oil over noodles or rice. Though it has its fans and critics, the moderately spicy and stimulating flavor is addictive.

Mangyangjeong Hoesikdang’s seafood kalguksu (knife-cut noodle soup) is topped with mussels, clams, and one scallop per person. It literally captures the spring sea in a pot.

Uljin = Text and photos by Yongjun Cho, Travel Specialist jun21@asiae.co.kr

◇Travel Notes

△Getting There=Take the Jungang Expressway, exit at Punggi IC, then take National Road 36 passing through Yeongju and Bonghwa to reach Uljin Seomyeon. From here, passing Bulyoung Valley, Hupo Port is nearby. Alternatively, from Gangneung on the Yeongdong Expressway, use the Donghae Expressway and take National Road 7 directly to Hupo-eup. You can also use the Sangju-Yeongdeok Expressway.

△Attractions=Seongryugul Cave (photo), where observing bizarre rock formations is fun; Deunggisang Skywalk, a landmark of Hupo Port; Wangpicheon River; Korean red pine trail; Baegam; and Deokgu Hot Springs.