Main Product 'Redbelt' Made with 30% Japanese Wheat and 70% Australian Wheat
Japan's Wheat Self-Sufficiency Rate Increases from 9% in 2010 to 16% in 2024
Expanding Beyond Japan into Overseas Markets
Japan's hand-stretched "Tenobe" somen noodles are characterized by artisans gradually lengthening the noodles using iron rods. Using a workbench called "kakebaki," workers hang matured noodle strands, each about 50 centimeters in length, over rods and carefully extend them by gradually increasing the distance between the rods. Through this process, the noodle strands grow to 160 centimeters-three times their original length. The noodles, which still retain some moisture, are so elastic that they do not break even when gripped by hand.
Since 1970, the Tenobe Somyeon Cooperative in Hyogo Prefecture has been producing Japan's top "Ibonoito" somen noodles through this process. In Hyogo Prefecture alone, 19,080 tons of Tenobe somen are produced, accounting for more than 44% of the national output.
A worker is demonstrating the process of making thin noodles at the museum operated by Tenobeso Noodle Cooperative. Photo by Joon Don Ju
On January 26, I visited the Tenobe Somyeon Cooperative in Hyogo Prefecture, which is about a 1 hour and 30 minute drive from downtown Osaka. Kazuyoshi Takahashi, the manager of the cooperative whom I met at the office, emphasized the importance of a proper balance between imported and domestic (Japanese) wheat. He explained, "Our main product, 'Redbelt' somen, which accounts for 80% of production, is made by blending 30% Japanese wheat with 70% Australian wheat. If we use only Australian wheat, it is difficult to achieve the unique nutty flavor. On the other hand, if we use only Japanese wheat, it is hard to maintain the desired texture, the price becomes too high, and it is difficult to secure a sufficient supply."
Japan, like Korea, has a low wheat self-sufficiency rate. According to the Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries, Japan's wheat self-sufficiency rate is expected to be around 16% in 2024. However, Japan has been steadily increasing its self-sufficiency rate since hitting a low of 9% in 2010. During the same period, Korea's wheat self-sufficiency rate fell from 1.7% to 1.5%.
Manager Takahashi said, "We would like to use more Japanese wheat, but it is difficult due to rising labor costs, labor shortages, and the higher production cost compared to imported wheat." He added, "While our main products are made with a blend of Australian and domestic wheat, we also produce and sell somen noodles made exclusively from wheat grown in the Hokkaido region, and these are very popular."
Kazuyoshi Takahashi, Manager of Tenobe Somen Cooperative, is explaining about Ibonite somen noodles. Photo by Joo Sangdon
The Ibonoito product from Tenobe Cooperative is classified by the color of the band used to tie the somen bundles: black bands indicate the highest grade, red bands indicate a premium grade, and blue, green, or sky-blue bands indicate standard grades. The signature product, Redbelt (300g), is sold at supermarkets for about 368 yen (approximately 3,400 won). Tomoko Kurokawa, Assistant Manager of Planning in the Sales Department, explained, "Within the Japanese somen market, this is considered a mid-to-high price range. Because Tenobe somen is made by hand, it is somewhat more expensive than machine-made noodles. However, in terms of quality, Ibonoito is distinctly competitive, which is why consumers prefer it."
The Tenobe Cooperative procures wheat that meets strict standards and supplies flour to 380 local producer farms and companies in nearby cities such as Tatsuno, Himeji, and Shiso. All somen produced by these farmers is purchased by the cooperative and distributed nationwide under the Ibonoito brand. Through this, the cooperative recorded sales of 16.9 billion yen (approximately 154.6 billion won) from January to October last year.
Exterior view of the Somyeon Museum operated by the Tenobeso Noodle Cooperative. Photo by Jangdon Ju
The Tenobe Cooperative also operates a museum. Visitors can try stretching the noodles by hand themselves and purchase Ibonoito products. The museum also sells dishes featuring Ibonoito somen dipped in Japanese-style soy sauce called "tsuyu." It is an experiential museum where visitors can make and taste Tenobe somen. A museum staff member shared, "In spring and autumn, when the weather is good, there are many visitors. Sometimes, the parking lot is filled with buses carrying guests."
The cooperative is also actively pursuing exports. The annual export volume is 90 tons, which is still small but growing. Akira Amakawa, Sales Department Manager in charge of exports, said, "Most exports go to the United States, especially the West Coast where many Japanese-Americans reside, and we are also negotiating exports to Vietnam. Recently, exports to Korea have been increasing, with Ibonoito somen now available at major Korean supermarkets and online shopping malls."
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