"2.18 Million Won for a Meal?" Over 2,000 Varieties of Train Lunchboxes, 'Ekiben' [Sunday Culture]

Started with rice balls sold in 1885, spread nationwide
Became a regional specialty featuring trout, beef tongue, and more
Losing ground to convenience store lunchboxes, but efforts to revive the tradition continue

Do you pack food when you travel by train? The days of "boiled eggs and soda" seem to be a thing of the past. Before the COVID-19 pandemic, eating a lunchbox on high-speed trains used to be quite common, but these days, people seem more self-conscious, and foods with strong smells are often avoided. Still, whether it's coffee or a rice ball, buying something at the station and eating it on the train somehow makes it taste twice as delicious. There's a unique flavor that comes from the excitement of travel and the experience of eating only on the train.

Lunch boxes sold at major train stations in Japan. Photo by Getty Images

In Japan, lunchboxes are sold at major train stations and are called "Ekiben," which literally means "station bento." Most places selling Ekiben are affiliated with the Japan Railway Station Sales Central Association. These official Ekiben are marked with a special logo, signifying their recognition. Each region creates lunchboxes featuring local specialties. Recently, many people have been striving to preserve this culture, even aiming for its registration as an Intangible Cultural Heritage. Today, let me tell you about Japan's train station lunchboxes, Ekiben.

Ekiben from various regions sold by JR East. JR East.

It all began with rice ball lunchboxes sold at stations in 1885... Now there are over 2,000 varieties

There are several theories about the origin of Ekiben, but the most widely accepted is that it began in 1885 at an inn in Utsunomiya, Tochigi Prefecture. The original version consisted of rice balls with Japanese pickled plums (umeboshi) and pickled radish, wrapped in bamboo bark and sold at the station. Utsunomiya was a transportation hub at the time, serving as a central station for soldiers traveling to and from nearby regions. Supplying lunchboxes to the military was a common business back then.

As the railway network expanded, Ekiben gradually took root in other regions. The business thrived even during wartime, with many vendors supplying lunchboxes to soldiers departing for China or Korea. After World War II, people traveling to Tokyo in search of work began buying these lunchboxes, solidifying the culture of eating lunchboxes on trains.

When Japan entered its period of rapid economic growth and train travel became routine, the Ekiben culture became firmly established. Some even claim that there are now over 4,000 types of Ekiben in Japan. However, according to data meticulously compiled by the Ekiben Museum, as of last year, there are 2,159 varieties of Ekiben currently being sold in Japan.

Featuring regional specialties... even musical lunchboxes

Today, Ekiben has evolved into a culinary culture that showcases each region's specialties. For example, Toyama Prefecture has a tradition dating back to the Edo period of offering sushi made with salted sweetfish. Later, as sweetfish became scarce, locals began using trout, which was abundant in the rivers, to make sushi in the same way. This is why trout sushi lunchboxes became the signature Ekiben at Toyama Station. In Sendai, famous for beef tongue, grilled beef tongue Ekiben are sold at Sendai Station.

Mullet Sushi Ekiben sold at Toyama Station in Toyama Prefecture. JR East Japan.

Interestingly, even Tokyo Station, which is not known for any particular specialty, offers its own unique Ekiben: the "Tokyo Bento." This lunchbox features side dishes from famous long-established restaurants across Tokyo, all packed into one box. It has received high praise from food enthusiasts.

There are also steady sellers that appeal to all tastes. The "Shumai Bento" from Kiyoken, a Chinese restaurant headquartered in Yokohama, sells more than 25,000 units a day and is extremely popular. Although it started as a Yokohama specialty, it is now distributed at major hub stations nationwide. Because of its popularity, the price of Kiyoken's Shumai Bento is often seen as a benchmark for Ekiben prices in Japan. When Kiyoken announces a price increase due to rising costs or labor shortages, it even makes the news.

Kiyoken's "Shumai Bento" sold at Yokohama Station. Kiyoken.

There are even unique Ekiben that play music when you open the lid. For example, the beef sukiyaki lunchbox sold in Aratake, Mie Prefecture, comes in a container shaped like a cow's head, and when you open the lid, a Japanese children's song melody plays. As a result, shortly after the train departs, the entire carriage is filled with a chorus of the song.

The most expensive Ekiben is the "Nikko Gold Leaf Bento" sold at Nikko Station in Nikko City, Tochigi Prefecture. Priced at 237,000 yen (2.18 million KRW), it contains sushi made with local fish from Nikko, snow crab from Hokkaido, Tochigi wagyu steak, caviar, and more. The name "Gold Leaf" comes from the legend that Tokugawa Ieyasu, who is buried in Nikko City, hid a vast amount of gold somewhere in Nikko in anticipation of the fall of the shogunate. While it's unclear why the lunchbox is so expensive when the gold was supposedly buried by Tokugawa, it has nonetheless become an unexpected content hit among overseas YouTubers who try it during their travels and post about it.

Nikko store gold city lunchbox priced at 237,000 yen (2.18 million KRW). Masuzushi.

Despite having become a cultural phenomenon, Ekiben vendors are currently facing tough times, mainly due to convenience stores. As the quality of convenience store lunchboxes has improved, more people are choosing them over Ekiben. In fact, the number of vendors affiliated with the Japan Railway Station Sales Central Association has dropped significantly. There were 400 vendors in the late 1960s, when the market was booming, but after a wave of closures, only 82 remain today.

This year marks the 140th anniversary of Ekiben, and railway companies are planning various efforts to revive the tradition. JR employees are working hard to have Ekiben registered as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Japan. Seven Ekiben vendors across the country are developing technologies to ensure the lunchboxes taste good even when cold, maintain their appearance despite shaking, and do not emit strong odors.

The official Ekiben mark granted to franchise owners by the Japan Railway Station Sales Central Association. Japan Railway Station Sales Central Association.

Ekiben seems like a wonderful way to promote regional specialties while adding excitement to travel. The dedicated efforts to preserve this cultural tradition are truly impressive. If you ever travel by train in Japan, I highly recommend experiencing Ekiben for yourself.