[Walking Through Seoul] Seoul Seen from Tokyo: A City in Harmony with Nature

Seoul, Where Nature and Traditional Architecture Thrive
Tokyo, a Vast, Cutting-Edge City on the Plains
Similar Yet Distinct Capitals of Korea and Japan

At the end of April, I spent about a week in Tokyo. My first connection with the city was in the summer of 1978, when I was a high school student and did a homestay in Kawasaki, near Tokyo. From 1995 to 2008, while living in Japan, I visited Tokyo frequently, so it is a very familiar city to me. I still vividly remember spending time in Shibuya and Harajuku when I was young.

Although I had a busy schedule in Tokyo, I made time to walk around various places. Naturally, this made me think of Seoul. Since I am much more familiar with Seoul than Tokyo, it is difficult to make an objective comparison, but for fun, I deliberately thought about the similarities and differences between Seoul and Tokyo.

The most obvious similarity between the two cities is that they are the capitals and largest cities of Korea and Japan, respectively, and therefore serve as the core in almost every field. There are differences when it comes to population ratios. Seoul accounts for 20% of South Korea's population. In comparison, the 23 special wards of Tokyo, which cover an area similar to Seoul, account for 8% of Japan's population, and even the entire Tokyo Metropolis only accounts for 11%. The Seoul-Gyeonggi metropolitan area recently surpassed 50%, whereas the Greater Tokyo metropolitan area is at 30%. While both cities concentrate almost everything in their respective countries, Seoul's dominance is much stronger than Tokyo's in terms of concentration.

There are also some differences from a historical perspective. While it is true that both cities are highly concentrated centers, Seoul has maintained its top influence since becoming the capital of the Joseon Dynasty in 1394. It is a historic city with a legacy of over 630 years. In terms of being a city centered around royalty, Seoul is actually more similar to Kyoto, where the emperor resided, than to Tokyo.

Tokyo is much younger than Seoul. In 1603, Tokugawa Ieyasu unified Japan, built a castle in Tokyo, and established the city of Edo, making it the center of Japanese power. However, there were regions not directly governed by the Tokugawa regime, and the emperor remained in Kyoto, so power was somewhat decentralized. Osaka grew as a commercial city, and Kyoto continued to maintain its authority as an ancient city. Other regional centers with vast territories and economic power, such as Kanazawa and Kagoshima, also emerged. In reality, everything became concentrated in Tokyo only after the Meiji Restoration in 1868, so Tokyo's history of dominance is much shorter than Seoul's.

Seoul downtown viewed from Namsan, Seoul. Photo by Hyunghan Hur

These differences are also reflected in the atmosphere of the cities. In the old downtown of Seoul, major Joseon Dynasty landmarks such as Gwanghwamun and Gyeongbokgung hold important positions, and Sungnyemun and Heunginjimun, the gates of the old city wall, are also located on major roads. Changdeokgung and Jongmyo have high historical value and have been designated as UNESCO World Heritage sites. In areas like Bukchon, many urban hanok, developed in the first half of the 20th century with motifs from traditional Korean architecture, allow you to feel the city's historical character as you walk through Seoul.

In contrast, there is almost nothing old in Tokyo. Due to the Great Kanto Earthquake in 1923 and World War II, there are hardly any landscapes left that evoke the Edo period or a sense of history. While there are some old temples around the Yanaka area near Ueno where you can get a slight sense of historical scenery, most of the buildings date from the latter half of the 20th century. Although Tokyo has not undergone the kind of comprehensive redevelopment seen in Seoul, small-scale development projects have been ongoing, and even buildings from the late 20th century are gradually disappearing. Shinjuku Station and Shibuya Station are also undergoing redevelopment, so the scenery of the 20th century is fading. Tokyo ranks 9th in the world for the number of buildings over 150 meters tall, while Seoul ranks 21st. This is contrary to what many people might commonly assume about the two cities.

Tokyo feels much larger than Seoul. This is due more to the geography than to the population. Tokyo is built on the vast Kanto Plain, so the mountains are far away. Unlike Seoul, you cannot use the mountains to orient yourself. There are hills here and there, but they are not very high. As a result, the city feels continuous and unbroken. As you walk, buildings seem to stretch on endlessly, creating a literal concrete jungle. Although Tokyo has more neighborhood parks than Seoul, their small size makes the city feel less green.

In Seoul, there are many mountains not only in the city center but also in the surrounding areas. You can see and easily access green spaces everywhere, so it does not feel like an endless concrete jungle. While Gangnam, which is relatively flat, gives a similar impression to Tokyo, it does not represent the overall feel of Seoul. Many people also live on steep hills, so the atmosphere of residential neighborhoods is quite different.

Compared to Seoul, which has many streams and waterways including the Han River flowing through the center, Tokyo has relatively few streams and waterways aside from the main river in the city center. Although Seoul has fewer neighborhood parks than Tokyo, since the restoration of Cheonggyecheon, linear parks along waterways have been created throughout the city.

Considering both historical character and geography, Seoul gives a strong impression of an ancient city in communication with nature, while Tokyo feels like a large-scale, cutting-edge metropolis. Since the late 1990s, Korea has adapted to the digital revolution much more actively than Japan, which still retains many analog aspects. This stands in stark contrast between the two cities.

Recently, both Seoul and Tokyo have seen a rapid increase in the number of foreign residents, transforming quickly into multicultural cities. In 2024, foreigners made up 4.7% of Seoul's total population, while the 23 special wards and the Tokyo Metropolis each had a foreign population of 5%. Tokyo has already reached the OECD's definition of a "multicultural society" at 5%, and Seoul will soon follow. About 25% of foreigners living in Seoul are ethnic Koreans from China. In Tokyo, there are more foreigners from various countries rather than Japanese descendants from abroad. Recently, the number of foreigners working in service industries such as convenience stores and restaurants has increased significantly in Tokyo, while Seoul still has fewer. Although the ratios are similar, it feels like there are more foreigners in Tokyo because you encounter them more frequently in daily life.

Both cities have neighborhoods where foreigners gather and commercial areas centered around them. Koreans and Japanese alike often visit these areas to enjoy exotic food and atmospheres. For a long time, both Korea and Japan had few foreigners and were considered to be exclusive societies. However, looking at the capitals of both countries today, it is clear that this is a thing of the past. Although there are many challenges related to multicultural society, Seoul and Tokyo are both at the forefront. There are certainly areas where they can look to each other, come together, and exchange advice.

Robert Fouser, former professor at Seoul National University