[Jo Yongjun's Journey] Watching the Stars Pour Down Where the Ollegun Left

Island within an Island, Gapado
Softly Embracing Hallasan
Gently Holding the Sea
Jeju Olle Trail Course 10-1

The Milky Way hung in the night sky of Gapado Island after the Ollegun hikers and tourists had left. Photo by Jo Yongjun jun21@

Tourists enjoying Gapado Island. Photo by Yongjun Cho jun21@

We walk gently on the island. Across the sea where the blue waves ripple, Hallasan Mountain feels endlessly cozy. Barley fields stretch out wherever the eye reaches, and flowers bloom in full splendor. Lightly draped clouds add charm, and the breeze that slowly blows washes away the summer heat for a moment. The village buildings and houses are all neat and tidy. The murals painted on the walls depict the lives of residents who make a living by fishing against rough waves, diving, and farming. We set off for Gapado (加波島), an island within an island. Compared to Jeju Island, the main island developed as a resort, Gapado still retains its old scenery and landscapes. This is also why a trip to Gapado excites the heart. There is also the Jeju Olle Trail Course 10-1. It is perfect for a leisurely stroll and exploration.

The golden barley field and Hallasan Mountain across the sea are within close reach. Photo by Jo Yongjun jun21@

Boarded the passenger ferry bound for Gapado at Seogwipo Moseulpo Port. The distance from here to Gapado is about 5.5 km. It takes 15 minutes by ferry. Gapado lies between Jeju Island and Marado, the southernmost point of Korea. It is a small island with a total area of just about 0.9 square kilometers. On the map, the island looks like a rhombus. At a glance, it resembles a stingray. The coastline is only 4.2 km long. It was called Gapado because the wind is fierce and the waves are unusually rough. So much so that when a Gapado resident borrowed money, they would say, "Gapado (meaning 'repay') or Marado (meaning 'don't repay'), either is fine."

The famous Cheongbori (green barley) Festival is originally held in May. However, in summer, the barley fields that have been harvested are filled with cosmos and yellow sunflowers. Except for the coast and the village, the entire field is a barley field. The 600,000 square meters (about 180,000 pyeong) of barley fields stretch to the horizon, seamlessly connecting with the sea horizon. The barley of Gapado is a Jeju native variety called 'Hyangmaek.' It grows much taller than regular barley, exceeding 1 meter. On the day of the visit, some of the barley left after harvest was dancing golden in the sea breeze. Every time the wind blows, it waves strongly in rhythm like the waves of the sea.

Gapado is great for walking or riding a bicycle. Photo by Jo Yongjun jun21@

A golden barley field swaying in the wind. Photo by Jo Yongjun jun21@

From Sangdong Pier, take the path to the left. Walking gently, you will encounter a signpost called "6 Mountains." It is a place where you can see six of Jeju's seven mountains, excluding Yeongjusan, including Hallasan, Sanbangsan, and Songaksan. Experiencing the view of Hallasan, the highest mountain, from Jeju's lowest land is special. Marado floats to the south.

In the center of the island, there is an observatory named Somang Observatory. From here, in spring, green barley waves; in summer, sunflowers; and in autumn, cosmos flowers sway. Not only that, old houses with low roofs are clustered together, and beyond the blue sea, Hallasan stands clearly before your eyes. The unobstructed, wide-open view and the surrounding scenery like a folding screen are truly breathtaking.

The road crossing the island from Sangdong Port, where the pier is, to the opposite Gapapo Port is a continuous series of simple landscapes. Passing the observatory and entering the village street, you will find Gapado Elementary School. It is the only school on the island, established in 1922, with a long history.

The road ends at Gapapo Port on the opposite side of the island. From here, follow the Olle Trail markers along the coastal path. With every step, the mountains of the main island unfold side by side or overlap, sometimes facing each other. It is a picture that changes depending on the viewpoint.

Tourists walking along the village road. Photo by Yongjun Cho jun21@

Tourists are walking along the Gapado Olle Trail. Photo by Yongjun Cho jun21@

You can see both the sunrise and sunset simultaneously from anywhere, including Gapado Somang Observatory. Photo by Yongjun Cho jun21@

Walking along the Olle Trail, you feel embraced by deep peace and tranquility. On Jeju's lowest land, the pristine Gapado, stroll very slowly and leisurely. There is no better place for walking.

Gapado's stone walls are unique. While most of Jeju Island uses black basalt to build walls, here they use sea-worn ma-seok (磨石). Each sea stone is an excellent viewing stone, but due to environmental protection issues, they cannot be taken outside Jeju. The walls around houses and fields are built more loosely than in other parts of Jeju. Because the strong Gapado wind passes through the holes in the walls, they do not easily collapse. The "island poet" Kang Jeyoon wrote that Gapado's stone walls are not "wind barriers" but "wind passages."

Tourists riding bicycles along the coastline. Photo by Yongjun Cho jun21@

The cloud-covered Hallasan Mountain has a charming atmosphere. Photo by Jo Yongjun jun21@

You can also see a small sign marking the filming location of the drama "Our Blues." It was the scene where the young captain Jeong Jun (Kim Woo-bin) and haenyeo Yeong-ok (Han Ji-min) went on a trip together. Just then, a couple riding bicycles passed by, like them.

After circling the island, you return to the pier. Several restaurants and cafes line up. Suddenly, the thought arises to spend a night in a tent. Spontaneous actions are another charm of travel. Immediately, I act on it. Walking about 15 minutes along the east coast road, you will find a sign for Taebongwat Camping Site, the only campsite on Gapado. Here, I plan to spend a night while looking at Hallasan and the sea. Under the night sky of Gapado, where Olle walkers and tourists have all left like the ebb tide, I will count the stars pouring down.

◇Travel Notes

△How to get there= Ferries to Gapado operate from Seogwipo Moseulpo Port. Search for "Marado Gapado Regular Passenger Ferry" on portal sites or download the "Islands I Want to Visit" app to make a reservation. The round-trip fare is 18,000 KRW for adults and teenagers, and 9,000 KRW for elementary school students. Ten percent of the ferry tickets are reserved for on-site sales, so you can buy boarding passes at the port, but during peak season, be prepared to wait in long lines. All passengers must carry identification.

Boat to Gapado and Gapado guide map. Photo by Jo Yongjun jun21@

△Olle Trail=Gapado corresponds to Jeju Olle Trail Course 10-1. From the pier, you circle the west coast path, cross the island interior, and then follow the east coast to Gapapo Port. Completing the Olle Trail takes about 2 hours, but it is recommended to allow more time. On Gapado, you don't have to follow only the Olle Trail. Walking in the opposite direction to others heading for the Olle Trail is another way to enjoy Gapado. The small houses at the dead-end and the horizon you meet on the way back are all Gapado's landscapes. Since the island is not large, you should also explore places without signposts. Only then can you say you have truly visited Gapado, not just the Olle Trail. Riding a bicycle is also good. The paths are flat and easy even for children. There is a bicycle rental shop at the pier.