[Interview] World's Top Sommelier on "How to Choose Wine to Minimize Failures"

Pierre-Marie Pattieu, Master Sommelier Interview
Only 275 Worldwide... The Most Prestigious Sommelier
"A Profession That Offers Unforgettable Experiences Through Pairing"

"A sommelier neither makes wine nor prepares food. However, through the optimal 'pairing' between them, they create the best experience."

Master Sommelier (MS) Pierre-Marie Pattieu introduced sommeliers this way in an interview with Asia Economy on the 26th. He described them as facilitators who help ensure that the atmosphere and emotions of the day can be remembered forever through the best pairing. They oversee the delicate harmony between wine and food, transforming an ordinary meal and a glass of wine that might have been easily overlooked into an unforgettable, fantastic experience.

Pierre-Marie Pattieu, Master Sommelier (MS), is taking a commemorative photo after an interview with Asia Economy.

Wine, a Constantly New and Dynamic Name

The title of Master Sommelier symbolizes the highest authority and honor among sommeliers. The Master Sommelier is the highest level sommelier certification granted to only 275 individuals since the Court of Master Sommeliers (CMS), headquartered in London, England, administered its first exam in 1969. CMS operates to improve the overall quality of wine and food and beverage service, and the Master qualification requires completing four levels: Introductory, Certified, Advanced, and Master.

Pattieu MS, originally from Avignon in southern France, began working in the hotel and food service industry at the young age of 14. He explained, "Many people in France attend vocational high schools, where they can combine academics and practical training, so I started working early. After graduation, I moved to the UK and worked in various roles such as waiter and sommelier in restaurants. Meeting many people in the wine industry naturally increased my interest in this field."

Pattieu MS said, "My basic interest in wine and food pairing was the background for choosing the sommelier path," adding, "Just like how the same wine can show different characteristics depending on the vintage, the wine industry is a dynamic field where you can constantly learn and study new knowledge, which I found especially attractive."

Logo of the Court of Master Sommeliers (CMS).

As the highest authority in the industry, the process to become an MS was not easy. The MS exam consists of three parts: an oral exam testing overall wine theory, a practical exam where candidates blind taste six wines and answer questions within 25 minutes in front of three MS examiners, and a service stage demonstrating the ability to serve wine in optimal condition.

Pattieu MS recalled, "I personally struggled with the tasting section. Due to nervousness, I trembled while holding the glass and failed five times in this challenging tasting part, which was a very painful memory." He smiled, saying, "It was a time when I deeply reflected on my limits, but by studying three to four hours daily while working and visiting wineries during holidays, I persevered and eventually obtained the MS qualification after 10 years. Now, I am very satisfied."

Finding Your Own Wine Preference: 'Curiosity is Most Important'

The Korean wine market has seen remarkable growth in recent years. However, many consumers still find it difficult to choose wine. Pattieu MS emphasized that having curiosity is the most important factor in selecting wines that suit one’s taste. He advised, "Korea, which does not produce wine, actually has more opportunities to experience a variety of wines than wine-producing countries that mainly consume their own domestic wines. Actively searching for related information online, sharing experiences through community activities, and participating in tasting events hosted by importers all help increase information acquisition and broaden experience."

He also added that cultivating the habit of asking very specific questions is necessary to find one’s preference. He said, "Tasting many different wines is the most accurate way, but if you clearly communicate the wine style you are looking for to sommeliers or sales staff, you can reduce the chance of failure and increase the likelihood of choosing a good wine. I recommend asking questions based on clear and objective criteria such as red wine vs. white wine or dry wine vs. sweet wine, rather than vague and subjective standards like wines with certain aromas." He emphasized, "Good wines can be expensive, but not all expensive wines are good. Ultimately, a good wine is one that reflects personal taste."

He clarified that wines with good balance of sweetness, acidity, tannins, and that pair well with food are objectively good wines. He also advised that the optimal wine can vary depending on time, place, and occasion (TPO). Pattieu MS explained, "On a hot day by the pool, cool white or ros? wines are suitable, while at a formal winter event, a heavy red wine pairs well. The best wine can change depending on the situation or location."

Tenuta di Arceno, an Answer to Modern Chianti

Pierre-Marie Pattieu, Master Sommelier (MS), is conducting an interview with Asia Economy.

Pattieu MS joined Jackson Family Wines, based in California, USA, in 2014 and has been promoting and educating about the group’s wineries and wines ever since. Until 2018, he lived in the UK managing the European market, and afterward, he has been based in Hong Kong overseeing the Asian and Oceania markets. Jackson Family Wines owns a total of 45 wineries in the US, France, Italy, Australia, and more. Pattieu MS’s visit to Korea this time was to promote and educate about the group’s Italian Tuscany region winery, Tenuta di Arceno.

Tenuta di Arceno is a winery that has been producing wine since the 16th century near the Ambra and Ombrone rivers, the center of the ancient Etruscan civilization. Its name is derived from 'arceno,' meaning origin. It was acquired by Jess Jackson in 1994 and became part of Jackson Family Wines. The winery produces three Chianti Classico DOCG wines mainly from the Italian representative grape Sangiovese, as well as three 'Super Tuscan' wines called the Arcanum series made using international varieties such as Cabernet Franc.

Tenuta di Arceno's Chianti Classico Riserva, Chianti Classico.

Tenuta di Arceno’s Chianti Classico is characterized by introducing the concept of 'micro-cru' in grape cultivation, dividing the vineyard into 63 small plots for cultivation and winemaking. Even with the same grape variety, this detailed cultivation and winemaking allow for expressing different characters, resulting in delicate and elegant wines.

Another distinctive feature is the use of smaller oak barrels for aging compared to typical Chianti wines. Pattieu MS explained, "While traditional Chianti wines use large barrels of 500 to 800 liters or more, Arceno uses relatively small 225-liter French barrels, boasting rich and complex flavors." He added, "Instead of only native varieties, they blend international varieties with the main Sangiovese grape to produce a somewhat more modern style."

The flagship wine, Chianti Classico Riserva, is a 14.5% alcohol wine blended with 90% Sangiovese and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. It is aged for 10 months in used French oak barrels, followed by over 12 months of bottle aging. Dominant aromas include red fruits like raspberry and cherry, along with oak aging notes such as tobacco and cedar. The elegance of Sangiovese combined with the firm structure of Cabernet Sauvignon offers excellent balance.

A panoramic view of Tenuta di Arceno in Tuscany, Italy.

Sommelier, a Wonderful Profession Offering New Experiences Through Pairing

Pattieu MS presented 'No Compromise' as the keyword symbolizing Jackson Family Wines’ wineries. They invest human and material resources generously and are not afraid of challenges to produce the best wines. He said, "Jackson Family Wines supports wine education by recruiting eight MSs including myself and one Master of Wine (MW), and continues to challenge itself by introducing new sparkling wines in the UK, a region not traditionally known for wine production."

Pattieu MS also emphasized that he is an active person who enjoys challenges based on this philosophy. He said, "Being a sommelier is a wonderful profession that offers new experiences by pairing good food and wine. This is also why more excellent sommeliers are needed." He added, "I think it’s great to be able to work more joyfully when what you love becomes your job. I will continue to meet diverse people around the world and share knowledge and education about wine."