"Next Year Marks 50 Years"... MZ Owner Protecting Hipjiro Golbaengi Alley [Euljiro Rotary]

⑧49 Years of Tradition Pungnam Golbaengi
3rd Generation MZ Owner Protecting Golbaengi Alley
"I Want to Continue the History of Golbaengi Alley"

Editor's NoteAnother name for Euljiro is 'Hipjiro.' Although the area presents a confusing scene with old buildings and alleys mixed with redevelopment, it offers a unique charm in that the past and present overlap. Once facing a crisis due to industrial decline, Euljiro's vitality was revived as young people continued to visit. We meet those who have established Euljiro's distinctive sensibility and those striving to carry on its legacy to envision the future of the city.

Euljiro boasts food alleys with a long history. Nogari Alley and Golbaengi Alley are representative examples. Merchants from nearby construction material stores and printing shops unwind after a day by enjoying a cold beer in these alleys. The prices for side dishes are affordable enough for anyone to enjoy without burden. However, redevelopment issues have begun to fracture this legacy. The alley that once housed a dozen or so golbaengi (sea snail) restaurants has been filled with cafes, convenience stores, and pubs over the past few years. Now, the nickname 'Golbaengi Alley' feels out of place.

Pungnam Golbaengi is the oldest golbaengi restaurant in Euljiro. It opened in 1975 and will celebrate its 50th anniversary next year. The owner, Song Young-gyu (42), who has lived in Euljiro since childhood, is the third generation to carry on the family business. He expressed a special affection for Euljiro, pondering if there could be a better word than 'hometown' to describe it. Song recalled, "The inner kitchen where cooking is done now used to be where I slept. Customers sometimes accidentally came in. I remember hearing the sound of garlic and green onions being chopped while I was sleeping as a child. It was so spicy that tears came to my eyes."

Song Young-gyu, representative of Pungnam Golbaengi. Photo by Kim Jin-sun

Pungnam Golbaengi started as a small grocery store. It began by placing a few tables and chairs in the store and serving beer with canned golbaengi seasoned with green onions and garlic as a side dish. The unique taste of Pungnam Golbaengi was born from the 'secret recipes' of the grandmother and mother. While the grandmother initiated the business, it was the mother who established the foundation and grew it into a representative Euljiro restaurant.

The restaurant firmly established itself as a proper golbaengi specialty shop in the early 1990s, a time when golbaengi restaurants were springing up everywhere. Transitioning from a grocery store to a specialty restaurant, they focused on building a loyal customer base and improving the taste. Even without much advertising, it became well-known through word of mouth and was featured on several TV programs such as 'Live Today,' 'Baek Jong-won's Top 3 Chefs,' and 'Vivid Information.'

"Some customers come after seeing us on TV, and there are longtime regulars as well. They come alone at first, then with their spouses, and over time with their children. It's heartwarming. When regulars come, we prepare dishes according to their preferences without them having to say?less spicy, more sour, and so on. Employees from Ssangyong hold retirement gatherings here. When my father passed away, regular customers came to pay their respects. There is a strong affection that cannot come from a brief relationship."

Song officially took over the restaurant in 2006 but has always worked alongside his mother. Although running the restaurant without days off is tough, he feels reassured by having his mother to rely on. He said, "We were selected as a 'Baeknyeon Gage' (Hundred-Year Store), which is very selective, so I am determined to manage it even better going forward. Some nearby old shops have closed because they couldn't find successors, but I want to do well."

He also shared his regrets about the disappearance of the commercial district. Song said, "It would be great if development could happen while preserving the old, but I feel a strong sense of loss. There is anxiety because this place could also be redeveloped. I want to run the business for a long time." He worries that as more golbaengi restaurants close, the number of customers will decrease. Song added, "The commercial district needs to thrive for mutual survival. Nogari Alley has also largely disappeared, and I worry this area might vanish too." He concluded with a hope: "These days, people call it 'Hipjiro' (a blend of 'hip' and Euljiro), but I hope it becomes a place loved for a long time, not just a fleeting trend."