Stone guardian animals can be easily seen even in the Joseon royal palaces. They are often placed around the spaces where the king spent his daily life or where royal ceremonies were held. In particular, Gyeongbokgung Palace has so many stone statues that one might wonder if it’s a zoo.
Perhaps the most familiar stone guardian to us is the Haetae statue greeting visitors in front of the main gate of Gyeongbokgung. It is also a symbol of Gwanghwamun Square and the city of Seoul, making it even more recognizable. Although it now stands at Gwanghwamun, it originally stood farther away between Yukjo Street?today’s Gwanghwamun-daero?and Gwanghwamun, watching over those entering the palace.
During the Joseon Dynasty, the palace was the tallest building in the vicinity, and this Haetae statue was likely one of the few sculptures that could only be seen by looking up. Its front legs are firmly planted, its hips lowered, and its head turned, somewhat reminiscent of a dog or cat looking at a toy in front of it. However, imagining the scene from an adult’s eye level?well above average height?against the backdrop of mountains and the palace, watching passersby, gives the statue a different impression.
Among the many charming stone guardians, I particularly like the decoration on the pedestal supporting this Haetae. The upper tier, where the Haetae sits, is carved with lotus flower patterns?called angnyeon patterns?while the lower tier features lotus patterns facing downward?called boknyeon patterns?with additional lush lotus blossoms scattered between them.
Though made of stone, it’s like a dog sitting on several layers of beautifully embroidered, high-quality cotton cushions. It makes me smile softly, thinking of people who buy several soft and fluffy cushions for their pets.
Viewing this Haetae from behind its hips offers another delight. Next to its plump, hot dog-shaped curled tail, curly fur emerges, revealing the TMI that the Haetae is a half-curly long-haired breed. If I were taller, I might have reached out to pet it without realizing.
- Kim Seoul, <A Very Private Palace Walk>, Nol, 15,000 KRW
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