[One Day Walk] Experiencing the Old Charm in Jeonju Gaekridan-gil, the 'Hometown of the Joseon Dynasty'

Today's course is 'Gaekridan-gil,' the central street in Jeonju city center, popular not only among tourists visiting Jeonju but also among local residents. The name '-ridan-gil,' given to streets with the most attractions in the area, is combined with 'Jeonju Gaeksa,' located in the heart of Jeonju city. It is a street where you can feel a variety of atmospheres all at once, as Jeonju is a city of film hosting the Jeonju International Film Festival, the main seat of the Joseon royal family, and home to the Hanok Village.

Jeonju City Hall Exterior View

The starting point of today's course is Jeonju City Hall. The Jeolla Line railway, which used to pass through the heart of Jeonju, was relocated outside the city as Jeonju grew, and Jeonju City Hall now stands on the site of the old Jeonju Station. The building combines the postmodern architectural trend popular at the time of its construction with the shape of Pungnammun, a symbol of Jeonju, and concrete architecture, creating a unique landscape. However, it has been criticized for being superficially pieced together rather than harmoniously designed, and is even considered one of the 20 worst examples of modern Korean architecture.

The scene of Jeonju Film Street, where the Jeonju International Film Festival was held last April
[Photo by Lee Chunhee]

Heading southwest along the road from Jeonju City Hall, you will reach Jeonju Film Street. This area is the main stage of the Jeonju International Film Festival and is densely packed with various cinemas such as CGV, Megabox, Jeonju Digital Independent Cinema, and Jeonju Cinematown. At the end of Film Street, construction is underway on the 'House of Independent Films,' which is expected to become the main venue for next year's Jeonju International Film Festival, promising an even richer festival experience. Film Street offers a variety of experiences as it is the central hub of Jeonju city, filled not only with films but also with diverse food and shops.

Jeonju Geksabon Hall [Photo by Cultural Heritage Administration]

Continuing down Film Street, you will come across Jeonju Gaeksa. Gaeksa was the central building of a government office during the Joseon Dynasty. It was the most formal building, visited by officials dispatched by royal decree and envoys from other countries. In particular, Jeonju Gaeksa holds a special name as it is the birthplace of the Jeonju Yi clan, the royal family of Joseon. The signboard 'Pungpaejigwan (豊沛之館)' hangs at Jeonju Gaeksa. 'Pungpae' refers to 'Pae-hyeon Pung-eup,' the hometown of Liu Bang, the founder of the Han Dynasty and protagonist of the Chu-Han Contention, and later came to mean the royal family's hometown. This name was given to signify the hometown of the Jeonju Yi clan.

The next destination is Pungnammun. It was the south gate of Jeonju Fortress. While other fortress walls and gates were demolished during the late Korean Empire period, only Pungnammun remains, making it one of Jeonju's representative historical sites. The name Pungnammun also means 'South Gate of Pungpae's Hometown.'

Jeondong Catholic Church, Jeonju-si, Jeollabuk-do
[Photo by Jeollabuk-do Provincial Government]

Turning towards Jeonju Hanok Village from here, you will notice a unique, old-fashioned building. It is Jeondong Cathedral, the first Western-style building in Honam, combining Byzantine-style domes and Romanesque architecture, which is rare in Korea. It holds deep significance in Korean Catholic history as the 'first martyrdom site' where Blessed Yun Ji-chung was beheaded and martyred in 1791.

The next place to visit is Gyeonggijeon Shrine. It enshrines the portrait of King Taejo Yi Seong-gye, the founder of the Joseon Dynasty. Originally built in 1410 during the reign of King Taejong, it was burned during the Japanese invasions and later rebuilt. It houses the national treasure portrait of King Taejo Yi Seong-gye and the Sillok-gak, a restored building where the Annals of the Joseon Dynasty were kept. The changing of the guard ceremony is held regularly, offering a unique spectacle.

Jeonju Jeonju-si Gyeonggijeon
Photo by Jeonbuk Provincial Government

Starting from Gyeonggijeon Shrine and heading east, the full-fledged Jeonju Hanok Village unfolds. Wearing rented hanbok and mingling with passersby can make you feel as if you have traveled back to the Joseon era. There are various foods to enjoy, and throughout the village, you can experience unique traditional crafts and hanji (Korean paper) workshops. Additionally, various festivals are held frequently, so if you time your visit right, you can enjoy new experiences.