[Seongkwan Cho's World Humanities Journey] A Sudden Thought While Eating Sundae Liver...

There are times when I crave sundae soup. Not long ago, I woke up in the morning with a strong desire for it. I sent a spontaneous message to a friend. I rarely make dinner plans, but my body was longing for sundae soup. After working at the Gwanghwamun Starbucks in the afternoon, I met my friend at OOO Sundaeguk. I ordered the 'special' sundae soup, which had gone up to 12,000 won, and was just about to take my first spoonful when the restaurant owner brought over a plate of liver as a complimentary side. It seemed to be an apology for the price increase. I dipped the liver in chili salt and ate it. Maybe it was because I hadn't tasted it in a while, but it clung to my tongue with every bite.

Upon reflection, I realize I eat sundae soup about once a month. Sometimes, I buy takeout and heat it up at home. When you order a plate of sundae at a sundae soup restaurant, you always get a few pieces of liver. Pork liver is dry and dense, but its nutty flavor is delightful.

Sundaegan.
Photo by Seongkwan Cho

While eating sundae liver, I was reminded of a conveyor belt sushi restaurant in a department store food court that I frequent. Everyone has their own favorite sushi. I enjoy the fishy flavors, so I like blue-backed fish. Whenever I visit a sushi restaurant, I always order mackerel sushi first, followed by pickled herring or horse mackerel sushi. I start with blue-backed fish and then choose other white-fleshed fish.

Conveyor belt sushi restaurants introduce new seasonal menu items. At some point, two types of sushi using anglerfish liver appeared: sweet shrimp anglerfish liver gimtae and anglerfish liver gunkan.

Gimtae (a type of seaweed) has a slight bitterness at first bite, along with a hint of ocean aroma. Wrapping the plump, sweet shrimp and the rich anglerfish liver in salty gimtae made for an exquisite combination. The anglerfish liver gunkan also used gimtae to balance out the richness, bringing out its unique nutty flavor.

I think it was last fall. I still remember the first time I tasted anglerfish liver gunkan. While large pieces of anglerfish liver sometimes appear in spicy braised anglerfish, the seasoning makes it hard to appreciate the liver's unique flavor. Anglerfish liver should be served slightly chilled. When I dipped the anglerfish liver gunkan into soy sauce with wasabi, the nutty flavor lingered in my mouth!

Sweet Shrimp Monkfish Liver and Seaweed Sushi.
Photo by Seongkwan Cho

The Texture of Viscosity

Anglerfish liver is called ankimo in Japanese. Ankimo is considered a delicacy in Japanese cuisine. Sushi using anglerfish liver is a gourmet dish that originated in Japan. Although ankimo has long been popular among gourmets, I only discovered it last year. The method of making ankimo is relatively simple. First, the anglerfish liver is washed with salt. Then, it is rinsed with sake. After removing the blood vessels, the liver is mashed and steamed. It is then shaped into a round cylinder and set. When sliced and plated, ankimo looks like slices of ham. The charm of anglerfish liver lies in its viscous texture-the richness of fatty liver that melts between your teeth, followed by a lingering nutty aftertaste.

Wait, where have I tasted something similar before? It took me a while to recall, but I realized that anglerfish liver tastes remarkably similar to foie gras. How could the liver of a sea fish taste like the liver of a bird?

Until recently, foie gras was considered one of the world's top three delicacies, along with caviar and truffles. Among them, caviar from sturgeon seems to have lost some of its exclusivity. Nowadays, sturgeon farming is possible in Korea, making caviar a more common ingredient than in the past.

Foie gras dish.
[Photo by Wikipedia]

Foie gras is a food made from the liver of geese or ducks. 'Foie' means liver, and 'gras' means fat. Literally, it is fatty liver-the same 'fatty liver' that doctors warn about with serious expressions during health checkups. Foie gras is served as an appetizer or main course in upscale French restaurants. First enjoyed in ancient Egypt, foie gras was later introduced to France, where chefs at the Palace of Versailles elevated it to haute cuisine.

France is both the largest producer and consumer of foie gras. French law even defines foie gras: "Foie gras is the liver of a goose or duck fattened by gavage," and "Foie gras is a cultural and gastronomic heritage of France that must be protected." It's reminiscent of the laws protecting baguettes.

Foie gras is produced using the gavage method. However, France faces criticism for animal cruelty because of this practice. Gavage involves confining geese in cages and force-feeding them. Unable to move, the birds have their beaks pried open and feed poured down a funnel. (By today's standards, this is contrary to animal welfare.) Since the birds do nothing but eat while confined, they gain weight and their livers become enlarged. The more fat the liver contains, the higher the quality of the foie gras.

The gavage method originated in ancient Egypt. Around 2500 BCE, Egyptians observed that migratory birds like geese and ducks would gorge themselves before migration, becoming plump. Inspired by this, they force-fed geese and ducks. The ancient Egyptians enjoyed foie gras so much that they even depicted gavage on the floors of public buildings in relief.

A relief depicting the breeding method of Gabaji in ancient Egypt.
Photo by Wikipedia

When Foie Gras Is Added to Pastry...

Foie gras spread from ancient Egypt to the Mediterranean coast. In France, the largest foie gras producing region is Strasbourg in Alsace. Strasbourg's specialty is the Strasbourg pie. This is a pastry filled with foie gras. In Europe, "Strasbourg pie" is considered a luxury bakery item. This is why Strasbourg pie appears in works of art and literature, from William Thackeray's "Vanity Fair" to the musical "Cats." The long-running musical "Cats" features over 20 songs. The very last song is "The Ad-dressing of Cats." In Korean, this would translate to "Speaking to Cats." The music is set to a poem by T.S. Eliot.

“… Some little token of esteem

Is needed, like a dish of cream

(Some small token of respect is needed,

like a dish of cream)

And you might now and then supply

Some caviar, or Strassburg pie

(And sometimes you might offer

a little caviar or Strasbourg pie)

Some potted grouse or salmon paste

He’s sure to have his personal taste

(Some potted grouse or salmon paste,

for every cat has its own taste)

I can't help but admire the perfect rhyme. It makes me see T.S. Eliot in a new light. If you want to address a dignified cat, you need to offer at least caviar or Strasbourg pie. It makes me smile.

A scene from the musical 'Cats'.
Photo by Wikipedia

The Liver Pecked by an Eagle

Among human organs, the liver appears in Greek mythology-thanks to Prometheus. According to Greek mythology, Prometheus is the brother of Atlas, Epimetheus, and Hesperus.

Prometheus gave fire, which was reserved for the gods of Olympus, to humans. Zeus, king of the gods, was enraged by Prometheus's actions. As punishment for giving fire to humans, Prometheus was bound to a pillar and subjected to an eagle eating his liver every day. This is the "liver of Prometheus." The horror of this punishment lies in its endlessness: although the eagle pecks at his liver during the day, by the next morning, the liver has regenerated. The eagle returns, and the cycle repeats.

This myth highlights the liver's remarkable regenerative ability. Modern medicine has made liver transplantation possible precisely because of this property. Even if a healthy person donates part of their liver, the donor's liver will regenerate within three months.

When I first encountered the story of Prometheus's punishment in Greek mythology, I thought Zeus's punishment was cruel. But after learning about the liver's properties, my perspective changed. The liver is an organ without sensory symptoms-hence, it is called the "silent organ." This is why liver cancer is usually detected at a late, untreatable stage.

As I reminisced about the flavors of sundae liver and anglerfish liver, the story somehow led to Prometheus's liver. Foie gras remains expensive, but ankimo is much more affordable. I hope to soon savor both ankimo and foie gras on the same plate.

Seongkwan Cho, Writer and Genius Researcher

Operator of 'Genius Table,' former Editor-in-Chief of Weekly Chosun