[Jo Yongjun's Journey] The Road to Geumgangsan, the Mysterious Valley Dutayeon

A Loudly Flowing Korean Peninsula-Shaped Waterway
Rusty Helmet, Landmine: The Scar of North-South Division
Pristine Primeval Forest Amid Division, Isolation, and Control
Reopening After Over Three Years Since COVID-19

Crossing the Demilitarized Zone, Dutayeon is a place where "the tension of conflict and hostility" and "pristine, exquisite nature" come together. The waterway, shaped like the Korean Peninsula, flows vigorously from north to south.

The Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) that divides the Korean Peninsula's waist is a space that vividly shows the reality of division. In Yanggu, Gangwon Province, adjacent to the DMZ, there are lands you cannot step on, waterways you cannot cross, and mountains you cannot climb everywhere. There are layers of barbed wire fences and minefields, and many military operation zones where access is restricted. Because of this, Yanggu feels distant to the public. However, despite isolation and control, nature has deepened and become more lush. In that deep nature, endangered plants that know nothing of human hatred, discord, or conflict are blooming. And that's not all. It is truly a pristine area where first-class endangered wild animals like the Korean goral roam freely and second-class endangered species like the Korean trout inhabit. We head there?inside the civilian control line of Yanggu. It is a forest path along the waterway that flows from the North, winding through the DMZ area, and entering the southern Paroho Lake. If you follow the waterway upstream, you reach Geumgangsan (Mount Kumgang). This is Dutayeon, considered the number one scenic spot in all of Yanggu. It was closed due to COVID-19 but reopened last April.

The path to Dutayeon is not easy. Or rather, it is more accurate to say it is complicated. Since Dutayeon is inside the DMZ, you must apply in advance. Initially, you had to apply three days before your visit, but now you only need to apply one day in advance. Also, you must be accompanied by a cultural guide, and individual entry is not allowed. Due to the nature of the area, approval from the military unit in charge is required, making the procedure cumbersome.

After completing identity verification at the Geumgangsan guide center and vehicle inspection by soldiers of the Army Imokjeong Unit, entry begins. Guided by cultural interpreters and military personnel, we head toward Dutayeon.

Suspension Bridge Dutagyo Crossing Dutayeon Valley

Rusty helmet and barbed wire on the ecological trail

After passing the guard post, the road becomes unpaved. Along the roadside, rusty barbed wire and triangular signs reading "Mines" are displayed. Anyone would be drawn into thoughts recalling the reality of division and the deep scars of war. After a short distance on the unpaved road, a concrete structure appears ahead. It is a tank defense line built to protect against tanks.

After about 10 minutes of driving, you arrive at Dutayeon. First, let's learn about the origin of the name Dutayeon. Long ago, locals called it Dretso (Draeso) or Yongso. The name comes from the old place name Dretgol in Geonsol-ri. Currently, it is said to be named after Dutasa Temple, which flourished nearby about 1,000 years ago. Dut? is a transliteration of the Sanskrit word meaning "practice of abandoning all desires and attachments." Dutayeon opened with restrictions starting in 2003, about 50 years after the Korean War armistice, and was fully opened from 2006.

Upon arriving at the parking lot, all previous inconveniences are quickly forgotten. From the entrance of Dutayeon, you hear refreshing sounds?the sound of water winding through the valley. The source of Dutayeon valley water is Geumgangsan. Water originating from Geumgangsan passes here and flows into Paroho Lake.

The waterway flowing from north to south takes the shape of the Korean Peninsula.

Signs warning of landmines are posted everywhere, as if showing the situation of division between North and South Korea.

As the cultural guide’s explanations intensify along the trail, a loud sound of water strikes your ears. It is the Dutayeon Waterfall. Standing on the observatory built atop the 20-meter-high Dutayeon cliff, you see the waterfall forming the shape of the Korean Peninsula. It is a waterway naturally connecting the South and the North. The white foaming water is blocked by the cliff, twisting and turning before pouring down into a deep dark blue pool about 10 meters below. Just watching this is breathtaking. The pool around the waterfall seems to be at least 50 meters in circumference. Around this time, summer rains swell the water, making the waterfall even more magnificent.

A traveler from Seoul said, “After being closed for over three years due to COVID-19, seeing Dutayeon reopened and the vividly alive natural scenery is so beautiful,” expressing joy.

The water of Dutayeon is clear and cold, befitting the largest habitat of the Korean trout in the country. Native cold-water fish species such as Geumgangmochi (Korean dark chub), Shiri (Korean trout), and Beodeulchi (Korean minnow) also inhabit this waterway. Fish travel along the water flowing from the North to fatten themselves. On the opposite cliff, a large cave with a black mouth is visible. It is Bodeok Cave. The entrance is about 10 meters in diameter and about 20 meters long. According to Yanggu County Office data, “During the reign of King Heongang of Silla, a high monk from Geumgangsan Jangansa Temple received a dream instructing him to go south. He entered Bodeok Cave at Dutayeon, met Avalokitesvara Bodhisattva, and then founded Dutasa Temple here.”

Travelers walking along the ecological trail on the way to Geumgangsan Mountain

Dutayeon Waterfall

Travelers are crossing the suspension bridge.

There is an ecological trail around Dutayeon, about 3 km in total. Most of the trail is dirt path, with some wooden planks laid down for comfortable walking. The area is mostly deciduous trees such as oak and Amur maple. In autumn, this area is dressed in colorful fall foliage. Locals praise Dutayeon’s autumn as being as beautiful as Geumgangsan. Because the area is rarely visited, it is not uncommon to see the natural monument Korean goral relaxing its guard and feeding nearby.

Dutayeon is a habitat for the Korean trout.

Crossing the suspension bridge Dutagyo Bridge is quite enjoyable. Barbed wire fences continue on both sides of the trail. Rusty helmets, shell casings, and mines are collected and displayed at intervals along the fence. These are actual artifacts excavated during the trail’s construction. They are scars left by the division of North and South Korea. While admiring the refreshing sound of the valley water and beautiful scenery, one also confronts the tragedy of division and fratricidal war. Soon, a corner of the heart aches.

Walking through the forest path lush with willows, alder, sawtooth oak, ash, and zelkova trees, the allotted time of about 1 hour and 10 minutes for travelers feels too short.

◆Travel Notes

▲Getting There=For those driving from the metropolitan area, the Seoul-Chuncheon Expressway is the fastest route. From the Chuncheon Interchange, switch to National Road 46 and continue straight to reach Yanggu.

▲Reservations=Since this is a civilian control line area, advance application for entry is possible through the Yanggu Security Tourism Integrated Reservation Site or on-site registration on the day of visit. On the day of the visit, you fill out an entry application and pledge at the Geumgangsan guide center, wear a GPS device, and follow the guide. The tour departs punctually from the Geumgangsan guide center, visiting Dutayeon parking lot → ecological trail → Dutayeon parking lot, taking about one hour. There are three tours per day, with a limit of 50 people on weekdays and 100 on weekends.

There is also an option to walk along the Dutayeon Peace Nuri Trail to the entrance of the "Road to Geumgangsan." The trail follows the valley and is secluded. Walking about one hour (3.6 km) from Dutayeon leads to Hayagyo Samgeori, the terminus of the old National Road 31. Behind a cloud-shaped signpost reading "Road to Geumgangsan," a firmly closed iron gate blocks the way. From here to Naegeumgang is only 32 km, stirring hope that this will soon be the starting point for Geumgangsan trekking. Trekking is only possible for those with prior reservations.

▲Attractions=Notable sites include the National Land Center of the Korean Peninsula Island, Punch Bowl, Park Soo-keun Art Museum, Yanggu Unification Hall, and Eulji Observatory. However, Eulji Observatory, which overlooks the Punch Bowl, is closed for construction until the end of this year.