[One Day Walk] Suwon Hwaseong and Hwaseong Haenggung Palace Containing King Jeongjo's Dream... Maegyo Station

Editor's NoteThe subway is not only a transportation method that anyone can easily access and travel safely with, but also an important point for daily walking. We introduce walkable places around subway stations.

Suwon City in Gyeonggi Province can be said to be the place where Jeongjo, the 22nd king of the Joseon Dynasty, established his base. Although it was considered a major city in the southern Gyeonggi region during the early Joseon period, with the Gyeonggi Provincial Government temporarily located in Suwon, the foundation of the city as it is known today was truly laid when Jeongjo relocated his father, Crown Prince Sado’s tomb from Dongdaemun-gu, Seoul, to Hyeryungwon in Suwon in 1789. After the relocation, Jeongjo frequently visited Suwon to pay respects at the tomb and simultaneously made this area the center of his new political vision, leading to the construction of Suwon Hwaseong Fortress and Hwaseong Haenggung Palace. The construction process of Hwaseong is documented in the 'Hwaseong Seongyeok Uigwe,' and Jeongjo’s procession to Hwaseong is recorded in the 'Wonhaeng Eulmyo Jeongni Uigwe,' both of which remain great historical records.

The closest subway station to Suwon Hwaseong and Hwaseong Haenggung Palace is Maegyo Station on the Suin-Bundang Line of the Seoul Metropolitan Subway. Maegyo Station is undergoing continuous transformation due to large-scale redevelopment projects in the nearby Paldal and Gwonsun districts. The name 'Maegyo' originates from the bridge called Maegyo that Jeongjo crossed on his way to Hyeryungwon.

Suwoncheon Banghwasuryujeong Area
[Photo by Suwon City]

On the way from Maegyo Station to Hwaseong Fortress lies the Suwoncheon Stream. Originating from Gwanggyosan Mountain and passing through Gwanggyo Reservoir, it flows through the heart of Suwon City and is considered the lifeline of Suwon. Although it was once covered to alleviate traffic congestion, the 'Suwoncheon Revival Movement Headquarters' was formed to oppose the covering and promote restoration efforts, resulting in its full restoration as a natural ecological stream in 2012. Walking paths have been installed along the stream, allowing visitors to stroll directly by the water.

Paldalmun Gate, Suwon Hwaseong, Suwon-si, Gyeonggi-do Photo by Cultural Heritage Administration

The first sight of Suwon Hwaseong you encounter while walking is Paldalmun Gate. Paldalmun is the southern gate of Suwon Hwaseong, completed in 1796, and its name is derived from Paldalsan Mountain to the west. Uniquely, Paldalmun features fortress walls that protrude outward as if embracing the gate. This defensive structure is called an 'Ongseong (甕城),' named after its jar-like shape surrounding the gate. It was designed so that attackers at the gate could be attacked simultaneously from the sides and rear, like 'mice in a jar.' Ongseong can also be found at Heunginjimun (Dongdaemun) of the Seoul Hanyang Fortress.

Panoramic view of Hwaseong Haenggung, Suwon-si, Gyeonggi Province [Photo provided by Cultural Heritage Administration]

At the center of Suwon Hwaseong lies Hwaseong Haenggung Palace. A haenggung is a separate palace built for the king’s use when traveling to provincial areas. Hwaseong Haenggung was constructed alongside Hwaseong Fortress in 1796, comprising about 600 rooms. During the 12 royal processions Jeongjo made to his father’s tomb, various events were held at Hwaseong Haenggung, including the 1795 60th birthday celebration of his mother, Lady Hyegyeong Hong.

Still cut of Kim Hyang-hwa (Kim Sae-byuk) from the movie 'A Resistance: The Story of Yu Gwan-sun'.
[Photo by Lotte Entertainment]

Hwaseong Haenggung continued to serve as the center of Suwon, and in 1919, more than 30 gisaeng, including Kim Hyanghwa, known from the film 'A Resistance: The Story of Yu Gwan-sun,' were arrested after shouting slogans in front of the Bukgunyeong, which was used as a police station at the time.

Suwon Hwaseong Janganmun Gate, Suwon-si, Gyeonggi-do
[Photo by Suwon Cultural Foundation]

Today’s destination is Janganmun Gate, the northern gate of Suwon Hwaseong. Unlike Paldalmun, whose walls beside the gate were demolished due to road construction, the fortress walls around Janganmun have been fully restored, allowing visitors to walk around the entire Suwon Hwaseong area. Visitors can enjoy various sights, including Hwaseong’s northern water gate Hwahongmun, which crosses over Suwoncheon Stream, and Banghwasuryujeong Pavilion, built for surveillance and to overlook the area.