[Joyongjun's Journey] The Shangri-La of Donggang, the Road to Yeonpobungyo School

Yeonpo Village Sitting Like a Painting Along the Scenic Donggang River
Yeonpo Branch School, Once Crossed by Julbae Boat, Transformed into a Camping Site
Breathtaking Donggang Scenery Viewed from Donggang Natural Recreation Forest

Yeonpo Branch School by the Donggang River in Jeongseon, Gangwon-do, is always a nostalgic name. Before there was a bridge between Sosa Village and Yeonpo Village, people took a rope ferry to get to Yeonpo Branch School. Nowadays, a bridge has been built, allowing easy crossing by car, but during the monsoon season, the Donggang River often overflows, making access impossible. There are many rivers across the country with scenery as splendid as the Donggang, but if one were to pick the most beautiful, it would undoubtedly be the Donggang. The river’s meandering bends wrap around vertical cliffs (called pyeongdae, tall and large rock cliffs), making it difficult to carve out paths along the water. The water flowing down from the Baekdudaegan mountain range follows ridges at an altitude of 600?700 meters, leading to the Donggang River, where picturesque remote villages have formed along the stunning landscapes and rapids. Yeonpo Village, where the branch school is located, is no exception. The village remains unchanged from the past, but the branch school has been converted into a camping site welcoming campers who enjoy remote camping.

Yeonpo Village, nestled along the Donggang River, remains unchanged from the past to the present, but Yeonpo Branch School has been transformed into a camping site, welcoming campers who enjoy remote camping. Photo by Jo Yongjun, travel specialist.

Travelers enjoying trekking along the three peaks of Yeonpo Village.
Photo by Jo Yongjun, travel journalist

The road to Yeonpo Branch School is endlessly exciting. The starting point for the drive is the quiet and modest Yemi Station. Yemi Station is a stop for the Mugunghwa train departing from Cheongnyangni Station five times a day. It operates as an unmanned station, but the interior is clean and restrooms are available.

From Yemi Intersection, if you go straight towards Yumundong and Donggang, you will reach Yumundong, where wide fields spread across the mountain slopes. A few scattered households gather here, and smoke rising from chimneys on slate roofs creates a scene reminiscent of a remote village. The deep mountain road is filled with a sense of silence. At a pavilion, a signpost reading 'Road to Donggang' urges you onward.

From Yumundong, you ascend the winding Goseongrijae Pass, where there is a tunnel. Unlike typical tunnels, its entrance is so narrow that you hesitate whether to enter. The Goseong Tunnel was created in 1985 when a water pipe was buried beneath Goseongrijae Pass; it is a water diversion tunnel (a path made by drilling through a mountain to direct water flow in a certain direction). Inside, it is narrow and dark, barely wide enough for one car to pass. It resembles a cement-made gallery, but locals use it as a shortcut. Emerging from the dark tunnel, you find yourself surrounded by layers of mountains, feeling as if a Shangri-La not marked on maps might appear.

If you turn left at Yemi Intersection, you soon enter a road that gives a remote area feeling. Photo by Jo Yongjun, travel specialist.

In the yard of Yeonpobun School Camping Site, the three peaks of Ppyeongdae are clearly visible. The locals call them Kalbong, Dunggeunbong, and Keunbong. Photo by Jo Yongjun, travel journalist

Passing the Donggang Goseong Information Center, you reach a three-way intersection. If you take the left Yeonpo Road, you arrive at Wondeokcheon Village in Deokcheon-ri. You stop briefly in front of the village hall to look around. In the middle of a cornfield, a cowshed catches your eye. The view opens up beautifully in front of the cowshed. You can see the winding road ascending Mullejae Pass, and beside it stands Baegunsan, the highest peak in the Donggang area, standing tall like a guardian. Facing the scenery where the Donggang flows gently beneath the massive pyeongdae cliffs, you repeatedly marvel, 'Was there such a beautiful place in Korea?'

The summit of Mullejae Pass is covered with a pine forest and houses a Seonangdang (a village guardian shrine). The name Mullejae comes from the old days when a spinning wheel (mulle) was hung at the pass’s ridge. People from Yeonpo and Sosa Villages had to cross Mullejae to go to the market. Before roads existed, they walked over the rugged pass. The Seonangdang holds the hopes and sorrows of the villagers from those times.

Descending from Mullejae leads to Sosa Village. The village, nestled on a mountain slope, overlooks the beautiful pyeongdae cliffs and the Donggang River. A wide apple orchard, fertilized and peaceful, spreads out. Descending from Sosa Village, you meet Sewolgyo Bridge crossing the Donggang. Before the bridge existed, Yeonpo Village was like an island cut off by the Donggang. When taking the rope ferry from here to Yeonpo Village, how excited one felt!

The current appearance of Yeonpo Branch School, transformed into a campsite.
Photo by Jo Yongjun, travel journalist

Donggang Natural Recreation Forest Observatory Where You Can Appreciate the Best Scenery of Donggang
Photo by Jo Yongjun, Travel Specialist

Yeonpo Branch School has changed a lot since it was turned into a camping site, but the school building remains as it was. It is popular among enthusiasts as a remote camping spot. Yeonpo Branch School is also famous as the filming location for the movie ‘Teacher Kim Bongdu.’ The beautiful appearance of the old branch school remains intact in the film. From the yard of Yeonpo Branch School Camping Site, three pyeongdae peaks are clearly visible. Locals call them Kalbong, Dunggeunbong, and Keunbong. There is a saying in Yeonpo Village that the moon rises three times because it repeatedly hides behind and reappears from the three peaks. Yeonpo Branch School opened in 1969, produced 169 graduates, and closed in 1999.

Next to the camping site is Yeonpo Store, which is a welcome sight. Yeonpo Store is the village’s only shop and restaurant, having stood in this spot for a long time. About 20 years ago, the couple Gon Okran, who lived in Sosa Village, took over the store. Gon’s three sons also graduated from Yeonpo Branch School. The three sons, now living in the city, say they still laugh about the days when they took the rope ferry to school during holidays.

The rocky pillars of Donggang stretch robustly along the water flow.
Photo by Jo Yongjun, travel journalist

Leaving Yeonpo Village, let’s explore the attractions around the Donggang River. Crossing Mullejae again and taking the left road at the three-way intersection at the entrance of Wondeokcheon Village leads to the entrance of Jejang Village. Under the bridge crossing into the village, the refreshing flow of the Donggang River harmonizes with Baegunsan Mountain, creating a magnificent scene.

In Goseong-ri, there are two outstanding observatories. Jeongseon Goseongri Mountain Fortress (a Gangwon Province monument) and Donggang Observatory Natural Recreation Forest. The stone fortress along the 425-meter-high ridge is believed to be a fortress from the Three Kingdoms period. Starting from the parking lot, it takes about an hour to walk around the fortress. It’s a pleasant stroll to admire the Donggang and surrounding mountain terrain at leisure.

Donggang Observatory Natural Recreation Forest proudly uses the name ‘Observatory.’ It is located in a place with an unobstructed view of the Donggang River. Although called a recreation forest, it is a camping site without lodging. The most outstanding spot in the forest is the observatory. Standing on the spacious observatory deck, the view of the Donggang flowing beneath Baegunsan is overwhelming. Even on weekdays, people pitch tents on the well-known No. 1 and 2 decks. The recreation forest is equipped with electrical facilities, allowing year-round camping. Even if you don’t camp, you can enjoy the Donggang view through the large glass windows of the caf? located in the forest.

Descending from the recreation forest, the road runs along the Donggang to Gasuri. On a low hill stands the Narisso Observatory. The Donggang flows beneath Baegunsan into a small pool, where the emerald water blends beautifully with the white sand beach. Continuing along the Donggang for a while, you pass through Gatan Village and arrive at Gasuri. On the hill in front of Yemi Elementary School stands a zelkova tree over 570 years old. The bench under the zelkova tree is a community gathering place. Sitting on the bench, you conclude your journey while gazing at the peaceful Donggang River.

◇Travel Notes

△Getting There=If coming from the metropolitan area, take the Yeongdong or Second Yeongdong Expressway and exit at the Jecheon Interchange on the Jungang Expressway. Then take National Route 38, passing Yeongwol, and before going to Sabuk and Gohan, turn left at Yemi Intersection to reach Yeonpo Village and Donggang Observatory Natural Recreation Forest.

Potato Ongsimi. Photo by Jo Yongjun, travel journalist

△Attractions=Jeongseon 5-Day Market is famous. You can buy various wild vegetables and medicinal herbs. You can also taste Jeongseon’s specialties such as Gondre Vegetable Rice, Kotteungchi Noodles, Buckwheat Pancakes, and Potato Ongshimi (dumplings) (pictured). There are many attractions including Byeongbangchi Skywalk, Gujeolli Rail Bike, Samtan Art Mine, Hwaam Mineral Spring, Hwaam Cave, Jeongamsa Temple, High1 Resort, and Mt. Mindungsan.