[Seoul's Future] Kim Hyo, Hangang History Interpreter: "Hangang is the Layer of Seoul's History"

Volunteering as a History Teacher of the Han River After Retirement
The Han River Has Served as a Political and Economic Hub Since the Past
Can Create Content by Connecting Cultural Programs

"It seems to flow silently, but it explains well the layers of Seoul's history."

This is the Han River as explained by Kim Hyo, a Han River history guide. A teacher who taught history to middle and high school students for 33 years and 5 months, he has taken on the role of informing citizens about the history of the Han River even after retirement. We met him on the 3rd at the Yongsan History Museum, the starting point of Course 13, where he began guiding in the second half of last year. Throughout the interview, which lasted over an hour and a half, Guide Kim shared the boundless history of the Han River. He suggested that if Seoul’s fragmented cultural programs by local governments were connected through the Han River, the river could be linked as a 'cultural waterway.' Below is a Q&A with Guide Kim.

Cultural commentator Kim Hyo is talking about the history of Yongsan in front of the Yongsan History Museum in Seoul, the starting point of the Hangang and Yongsan cultural commentary tour. Photo by Heo Younghan younghan@

Why I Became a Han River History Guide... "The Han River is Seoul's History"

- I’m curious about what led you to become a Han River history guide. Why the 'Han River'?

▲ The reason I became a Han River history guide is because the Han River is a historic place. Although it seems to flow silently, the stories it tells explain well the layers of Seoul’s history. For example, take the Three Kingdoms period. The term 'Han River' is a recent usage; going back to the Three Kingdoms era, Goguryeo, Baekje, and Silla each had different names for it. The fact that one river was called different names by different states means that the Han River played a politically and economically important role. The state that controlled the Han River ultimately held political dominance in the Three Kingdoms. Thus, from ancient times to today, the Han River has held significant meaning. I retired from teaching history six years ago, and I thought that using my experience as a teacher to convey this history in an easy-to-understand way to citizens would be a rewarding life. Moreover, it’s not a fixed indoor location but a program where we walk along the Han River for about two hours while sharing stories, making it good both mentally and physically.

- Could you elaborate on the historical and cultural significance of the Han River?

▲ The Han River originally functioned as a waterway for transportation. The points where the waterway connected to land routes were called 'naru' (ferry ports). Nowadays, roads are artificially made, but in the past, paths naturally formed as people traveled and boats sailed. Ultimately, naru were formed as historical strata. However, the waterway has lost its original function, and as a result of the Han River Comprehensive Development Project, boats can no longer navigate the river, and bridges have replaced this function. Although the form has changed, the Han River’s role as a path continues. Historically, the Han River was called 'Daesu' (belt water) because it resembled a belt when talking about the entire Korean Peninsula. Even though Seoul is divided into Gangbuk (north of the river) and Gangnam (south of the river), bridges have been built to overcome this barrier. The Han River continues to serve as a link for balanced development between Gangbuk and Gangnam. Besides this, countless contents can be created related to the Han River. There are few historical subjects as suitable for storytelling as the Han River.

On the afternoon of the 3rd, cultural commentator Kim Hyo is explaining the history of the Han River at Hangang Bridge in Seoul. Photo by Hwang Seoyul chestnut@

- Recently, Seoul City has been promoting 'Great Sunset Han River' and installing attractions like the 'Seoulling' Ferris wheel in Sangam-dong along the Han River, showing a trend to revitalize tourism around the river. What do you think about this?

▲ During former Mayor Oh Se-hoon’s term, the Sebitseom Floating Islands were created. Although initially criticized, they have recently gained renewed attention. The Banpo Bridge fountain is not very impressive during the day but has become a popular nighttime attraction with its lighting. I think this inspired the idea to build something like the London Eye. I have been to the London Eye, and personally, I thought it didn’t quite fit with London’s historical character. However, seeing many people lining up to ride it, it seems modern people want to see London’s view from the London Eye. Perhaps they took note that the London Eye became a hotspot.

- Some voices say that policies to promote tourism along the Han River may damage its natural environment. What is your opinion on this?

▲ Among citizens, there are concerns that such development might increase artificial structures and damage our ecological streams. Environmental groups have criticized that Seoul is not being designed but rather destroyed. For example, natural islands were removed for development and then artificial islands were created. Because they are artificial, they require management and decoration by people starting in spring. It is true that these are used as good citizen parks, but they also raise apartment prices and provide more benefits to local residents. It would be good to consider tourism promotion policies that benefit all citizens.

- What new tourism content could be created centered on the Han River?

▲ Each local government or cultural organization has developed many walking paths, and if these were connected to the Han River, it could create excellent content. For example, explaining the Bugundang faith, which was mainly a village ritual along the Han River. It existed in several places, including Bamseom Island, but after Bamseom disappeared, it moved to the Wausan area behind Gwangheungchang. This is included in the Seogang Naru-gil course. Nearby is the Danginri Thermal Power Plant and an energy exhibition hall. The Gyeongui Line branch once ran to the power plant site, and part of this branch has been restored as the Gyeongui Line Forest Trail. Following this trail leads to Hongdae. The Seogang Naru-gil course is managed by the Han River Project Headquarters, the energy exhibition hall by KEPCO, and the Gyeongui Line Forest Trail by Mapo-gu. It would be great to integrate these into a cultural waterway.

Experiencing Kim Hyo Guide’s 'Han River History Exploration Course 13'

Seoul City resumed the 'Han River History Exploration' and 'Han River Night Tour' on September 1 last year after suspending them due to COVID-19. 'Han River History Exploration' involves professional guides and citizens walking together along the Han River to discover hidden history and cultural heritage throughout Seoul. Professional guides, including Guide Kim, provide entertaining explanations. As of last year, there are six courses on the north side of the Han River and nine on the south side. Guides are recruited as volunteers but must undergo thorough preparation including training, education, and course-specific tests from experts since they must speak in front of citizens. Course explanations are also certification-based, so not all guides can explain every course.

Guide Kim is in charge of Course 13, 'Han River Hundred-Year Bridge Path,' created in 2019 but first operated in the second half of last year due to COVID-19. He is the only guide certified to explain this area. Course 13 runs from Yongsan History Museum - Hangang-daero - Hangang Bridge - Hangang Park - Hangang Railroad Bridge - Saenamteo Cathedral - Railroad Official Residence - back to Yongsan Station, covering the modern history of the Gyeongui Line railroad and the Han River. After the interview, we walked part of Course 13 with Guide Kim for about 30 minutes. The full course usually takes about two hours.

On the afternoon of the 3rd, historian and cultural interpreter Kim Hyo is explaining the history of Yongsan while looking at a map at the Yongsan History Museum in Seoul. Photo by Hwang Seoyul chestnut@

Yongsan History Museum

The explanation begins with a map inside the museum. Guide Kim gave a brief history of Yongsan from the past to the present based on the map.

▶ Yongsanbang and Dunjibang were administrative districts during the Joseon Dynasty. Originally, Yongsan was Yongsanbang, and present-day Sin Yongsan is the Dunjibang area. Looking at Yongsanbang, the mountain ridges run from Baegaksan, Inwangsan, and Ansan down to the Han River, where Yongsan is located. It is said to resemble a dragon drinking the Han River water, hence the name Yongsan (Dragon Mountain). Meanwhile, Dunjibang became the site where the Japanese military headquarters and later the US 8th Army were stationed. Because the name was attached to the Yongsan US military base, the Dunjibang area came to be called Yongsan. Some say it should reclaim its original name, Dunjibang, since everyone calls it Yongsan.

▶ Yongsan Station was built along the Han River. It was not just a simple station but included a railroad maintenance depot. Nearby were a railroad hospital, schools, and official residences for railroad employees. With this development, a new town was created for Japanese settlers entering Yongsan. Yongsan, which served as a forward base for Japan’s continental invasion, became a space where sovereignty was infringed upon after liberation due to the US military presence. However, now it has become a hub from which our cultural contents are exported overseas.

(Left) Hangang-daero looking toward Namsan (Right) HYBE Entertainment building / Photo by Hwang Seoyul chestnut@

Hangang-daero in front of Yongsan Station

Leaving the Yongsan History Museum, we walked along Hangang-daero with Guide Kim, who shared stories about Yongsan’s past, present, and future.

▶ Hangang-daero connects to Namdaemun and Sejongno. It was built by the Japanese military to quickly move troops to suppress uprisings in Seoul, so it can be seen as a route of Japanese invasion and control. Yongsan became one of Seoul’s key transportation hubs because a railroad bridge connecting to Gangbuk was built, followed by the construction of Hangang Bridge. Originally, the center was Yanghwa Naru or Mapo Naru, but this function shifted to Yongsan, which can be seen as a colonial legacy.

▶ Having explained Yongsan’s past, it is also possible to explain its present and future here. Looking toward Namsan, you can see the Amorepacific building (formerly Taepyeongyang), a symbolic cosmetics company of K-beauty, connected underground to Sin Yongsan Station. Looking toward Hangang Bridge, you can see the building of HYBE Entertainment, the agency of BTS, the center of K-pop.

(Left) Wonhyo Bridge as seen from Hangang Bridge. Like Hangang Bridge, two bridge structures can be seen. (Right) Hangang Pedestrian Bridge demolition site plaque / Photo by Seoyul Hwang chestnut@

Hangang Bridge

Hangang Bridge was built in 1917 as a pedestrian bridge connecting downtown Seoul and Noryangjin.

▶ Hangang Bridge consists of two connected bridges. It shows that there used to be sandy beaches along the Han River. On sandy beaches, railroad bridges do not need closely spaced railings, but in deep water areas, pillars must be set deep into the riverbed, so it was constructed as a truss structure. People who swam across the Han River in the past did not swim across the current width of the river. In the middle where the bridge shape changes is Nodeul Island. This suggests that Nodeul Island was originally not an island but land. As the riverbank embankment expanded, the area around the pillars was left as an island to protect them. Therefore, Nodeul Island is an artificial island, originally land but preserved as a village site suitable for pillar installation.

▶ Hangang Bridge also holds painful history. This is shown by the plaque at the site where the Han River pedestrian bridge was blown up. During the Korean War, the North Korean army blew up the Han River pedestrian bridge to stop their southward advance, causing many casualties.