[Sunday Culture] Animals Resembling Haetae... Okinawa's 'Shisa' Story

Legendary Animal Originating from the Oriental Lion

Editor's NoteOn a lazy Sunday, both body and mind feel sluggish. Our international affairs reporter brings you an interesting read related to Japanese culture.

[Asia Economy Reporter Jeon Jinyoung] Many people are traveling to Japan these days. I recently visited Okinawa on a business trip. Okinawa has a strong exotic atmosphere, quite different from the typical image of Japan.

In Okinawa, you can often see animals resembling Haetae standing in front of shops or houses. When I was there, Korean companions asked me, "What is that animal?" Today, I would like to talk about the legendary animal frequently seen in Okinawa called the 'Shisa.'

A Sisa placed on the wall of a private house in Okinawa.

Shisa is a legendary animal in Okinawa and essentially serves as a guardian deity. However, its motif actually comes from the lion. The name 'Shisa' is the Okinawan dialect pronunciation of 'lion.' It is believed to have originated from the Sanskrit word 'Simha,' which means lion. Scholars speculate that the Indian lion from the 13th to 14th century spread to Okinawa via China through Silk Road traders, leading to the creation of the Shisa.

This is also related to the history of the Ryukyu Kingdom, the predecessor of Okinawa. The Ryukyu Kingdom was an independent nation completely separate from mainland Japan, thriving through intermediary trade with the Qing Dynasty and Joseon. Geographically closer to Taiwan than mainland Japan, it was more influenced by Chinese culture than Japanese culture.

Because of this, Shisa-related culture incorporates many Buddhist concepts. Usually, Shisa come in pairs: the one on the right with an open mouth is the male, and the one on the left with a closed mouth is the female. This is due to the influence of Chinese Buddhism and the theory of yin and yang and the five elements that entered Okinawa. The open-mouthed male is said to ward off evil spirits, while the closed-mouthed female keeps good fortune from escaping, so they are paired together.

The meaning of Shisa also varies depending on where they are placed. There are Shisa that guard palaces, villages, and homes, each with different characteristics and roles.

A glimpse of the palace at Shuri Castle.

The 'Palace Shisa' can be seen mostly at historical sites related to the Ryukyu Kingdom. They were created as symbols to demonstrate the power of royalty or nobility. The Shisa guarding the gates of Shuri Castle, built in the Ryukyu Kingdom’s capital, are lions placed only in palaces.

In villages, Shisa are placed to prevent disasters. Records from the 1600s support this story. When a village in Okinawa frequently experienced fires and disasters, a geomancer advised, "Make Shisa and place them facing the mountain." After placing the Shisa, no more fires occurred.

Shisa can also be found on the walls or doors of Okinawan homes. The spread of Shisa to common households began after the Meiji era, mainly installed to ward off evil spirits.

Current affairs in front of Okinawa Prefectural Office.

The Shisa seen on streets and shops reminded me of Jeju Island’s Dolhareubang, giving a familiar feeling. Just as the Dolhareubang at Jeju Airport wore masks to prevent COVID-19, many Shisa in Okinawa were also seen wearing masks. Like the Jeju dialect greeting 'Honjeoopseoye,' Okinawa’s Shisa welcomed people with the Okinawan dialect phrase 'Mensore,' meaning 'welcome,' instead of Japanese.

In fact, when Okinawa was annexed by mainland Japan, Japan regarded the history of the Ryukyu Kingdom as inferior and tried to eliminate traditional culture such as Shisa and the Okinawan dialect. Immediately after annexation, the Ryukyu king was expelled from Shuri Castle. What feelings might the Shisa guarding the palace have had at that time? Nowadays, Shisa souvenirs like keychains can be seen everywhere as tourist mascots, but it feels somewhat bittersweet to see them as merely cute.