It Wasn't That I Went to Eat...

Jeju Island Food Tour: The Second Story

The original intention was to temporarily forget the complicated life in Seoul and take a trip. Although the trip to Jeju started with that in mind, the reality was me exploring famous restaurants thinking, "Shall I do something?" I realized that my goal was to enjoy life by exploring and savoring good food. Following the previously written "Gogi Guksu Exploration," I planned the "Jeju Gourmet Travel Story," covering all foods except gogi guksu.

1. Manwonui Haengbok (★★★☆)

Drinking can't be left out of a drink kit, right? I found this place next to Jangsumul Sikdang while looking for a spot that serves drinking snacks. As the name suggests, every menu item is sold for 10,000 won each, making it perfect to enjoy a plate of sashimi with a glass of alcohol. The sashimi varies daily, caught by the owner's father. The quantity isn't large, but the freshness is a strong point. If you order fried dishes, rice bowls, or fish stew, you can drink until you're full. The only disappointment was the Omegi Sul, a Jeju traditional liquor, which was a bit underwhelming for 15,000 won.

2. Mosal Mul Branch 2 (★★★★)

Jeju is famous for sashimi restaurants, and Mosal Mul is quite renowned among them. While searching for a place that serves mackerel sashimi during lunch hours, I found out that the second branch operates at lunchtime, so I visited. When I asked, "Should I order mackerel sashimi separately?" they kindly suggested that the assorted sashimi would include more mackerel, so I ordered the small assorted sashimi for 40,000 won without hesitation. At first, I had no high expectations, but unlike Manwonui Haengbok the day before, a generous spread arrived, focusing on quantity. Thanks to that, I could open a bottle of Hallasan without hesitation. (Although not in the photo, fish stew was served afterward.) The sashimi itself wasn't the absolute best in taste, but the unbelievable price made for a satisfying lunch. It might be the best menu for one or two people. The only regret was not having a friend to share drinks with. Since there is a wait in the evening, I recommend going during the day.

3. Michin Bueok (★★★★★)

Undoubtedly the best restaurant on this Jeju trip. Recommended strongly by locals, I went there after visiting Mosal Mul for lunch without high expectations and ended up falling in love. I ordered the "Solitary Gourmet Set," which includes fresh and delicious sashimi, cream udon, and karaage. From the very first basic snack (commonly called shrimp crackers) served at the start, the place showed great sense. The subsequent dishes were exquisite, satisfying both price and composition without needing lengthy explanation. Two people would feel it’s a bit lacking, but three people ordering various dishes would find it truly delicious. They also offer a wide variety of alcoholic beverages, satisfying the diverse tastes of solo drinkers.

4. Cafe Seongji Tangerine Mansion Branch (★★★★)

Initially, I stopped by this cafe just to use the restroom by chance, but since it’s located on the second floor of a hotel, the atmospheric interior immediately caught my eye. They offer welcome tea to give customers time to enjoy the ambiance while choosing their menu, which is a special feature. They provide various coffee beans, so coffee lovers might find their taste buds satisfied. I chose my usual favorite Ethiopian beans, and thanks to the clear, refreshing, floral coffee flavor I love, I ended up staying longer than expected. However, you should be aware that the chairs themselves are somewhat uncomfortable.

6. Mat-ui Gosu (★★☆)

This is a typical tourist spot restaurant in Aewol selling seafood tteokbokki, pork cutlet, and other standard menus. I went there to cure a hangover the day before. Since Aewol is more of a tourist area compared to downtown, prices tend to be high, so I chose the menu carefully and was lucky to enjoy a tastier ramen than I feared. However, the fundamental problem with seafood ramen (due to ingredients like blue crab) making it hard to eat neatly was unavoidable.

7. Hotaru Handam (★★☆)

Hotaru Sushi, as mentioned above, clearly reflects the "tourist area prices." The staff were friendly and the service was decent, but the fact that the Hotaru set menu and amberjack sashimi together cost 33,000 won left some disappointment. The seasonal amberjack sashimi was rather good, but compared to the significantly improved pork cutlets in Seoul, which have become popular in recent years, it was quite lacking.

8. Talk Show Cosmos Branch (★★★☆)

Is there a place in Jeju where you can feel the nostalgia of an old neighborhood hof (Korean pub)? Talk Show Cosmos Branch is exactly that place. I went there with a friend I met in Jeju, looking for a light beer. Attracted by the owner's kindness and the cucumber side dish served, I ended up drinking over 3,000 won per person. The snacks aren’t particularly delicious, but they are sufficient as basic side dishes, making it a great place to enjoy old-school vibes.

9. Seonggong Sikdang (★★★★)

This is one of the sundae gukbap (Korean blood sausage soup with rice) restaurants located near Tapdong, serving real rice mixed into the soup, which is hard to find in Seoul. A friend who has lived in Jeju for a long time told me, "In Jeju, sundae guk is better than gogi guksu," and it was indeed a dish worth that claim. The simple but tasty side dishes and the sundae guk filled with offal made it an irresistible taste. While the flavor itself isn’t uniquely special, it significantly elevated the level of typical sundae guk. For a reporter who came in cold after feeling the sea breeze, it was like rain in a drought.

10. Airport Food Court (★★)

This place must be introduced. On the day of departure, I arrived early at the airport and was torn between horse meat and something lighter, so I chose a ramen and abalone kimbap set. However, I couldn’t find any abalone flavor at all, which made me chuckle. Of course, considering the price is under 10,000 won and includes ramen, it’s somewhat understandable, but at this level, shouldn’t it be called banana-flavored milk but abalone-flavored kimbap? I’m giving two stars because the ramen was tasty.

Thus ended the gourmet travel of a food enthusiast editor who visited a total of 16 places over 5 nights and 6 days (excluding two ordinary cafes). My personal overall assessment is that if you purely want to enjoy gourmet food, it’s better to just visit famous restaurants in Seoul. However, considering the coastal nature, sashimi generally doesn’t fail wherever you go, so taking that into account, it could be an attractive gourmet travel experience.

Photo by Seo Jeongjun