[Gu Eun-mo's Sake Story] Makgeolli That Captivated Roh Moo-hyun... A Century-Old Brewery Passed Down for Four Generations

<5> Chungbuk Danyang 'Daegang Brewery'①

Century-old brewery opened in 1918... operated for 105 years across 4 generations
Former President Roh Moo-hyun tasted and enjoyed it during his 2005 visit to Danyang
Used over 200 times as a Blue House banquet drink until his retirement
'Sobaeksan Saeng Makgeolli' brewed with rice and wheat... master of 90-year-old traditional earthenware fermentation

Daegang Brewery, Danyang, Chungbuk

[Asia Economy Reporter Koo Eun-mo] Jukryeong (竹嶺) has long been known as one of the three major gateways of the Yeongnam-daero, along with Saejae in Mungyeong and Chupungnyeong in Yeongdong. Various counties in the Yeongnam inland region all had to pass through this road to travel to and from Seoul, and countless government officials as well as peddlers carrying loads crossed this mountain pass repeatedly. Jangnim-ri, Daegang-myeon, Danyang-gun, Chungbuk, located at the foot of Sobaeksan Mountain, is a village situated at the entrance of this mountain pass. Here, there was a horse stable where numerous travelers would rest for a night before crossing the high and rugged Jukryeong, repairing their straw shoes, and changing horses, and a thriving tavern street that comforted weary travelers.

Although this road served as a vital artery connecting the Yeongnam inland region for roughly over two thousand years, it was not eternal. During the Japanese colonial period, with the opening of national roads and the Jungang Line railway, the number of people using the old Jukryeong road gradually decreased, and the once bustling taverns closed one by one until they vanished without a trace. Though the thriving taverns and resting travelers have all disappeared, the taste of the liquor from the old Jukryeong road still guards that place.

Daegang Brewery, which has been in operation for 105 years this year, originated from Suanbo Brewery in Chungju, Chungbuk, established in 1918 by the late Kim Young-tae, the great-grandfather of the current CEO, Jo Jae-gu, who obtained the brewery license. The brewery, operated by founder Kim and his family, was succeeded in 1969 by Kim’s grandson on the maternal side, Jo Guk-hwan, and in 1979, it relocated to Daegang-myeon, Danyang, adopting its current name. The name Daegang (大崗), meaning ‘large and gentle hill,’ is derived from the place name where the brewery is located, referring to Sobaeksan Mountain, famous for its gentle ridges.

Jo Jae-gu, CEO of Daegang Brewery, said, “My father grew up seeing that the maternal family’s brewery was well-known and wealthy in the area, and he always thought that he would one day run a brewery himself. He graduated from a teacher’s college and worked in education before entering the brewing business because he had that aspiration from a young age.” He added, “At first, he operated his own brewery near Suanbo, but later inherited the maternal family’s brewery, and after moving to Danyang, the brewery has been run by four generations to this day.”

Representative products of Daegang Brewery.

Former President Roh Moo-hyun Falls for Simple and Modest Daegang Makgeolli

Daegang Brewery also has a deep connection with the late President Roh Moo-hyun. In May 2005, during a rural experience visit to Handemi Village in Danyang-gun, President Roh first tasted Daegang Brewery’s ‘Sobaeksan Saeng Makgeolli’ at a meal. Whether the makgeolli suited his taste or not, it is said that he drank six glasses in a row at that sitting.

Captivated by the taste of makgeolli, after returning to the Blue House, President Roh ordered Daegang Makgeolli several times and served it to distinguished guests. At dinners with top officials, and even when NFL star Hines Ward visited Korea as MVP and came to the Blue House, the toast drink was Daegang Makgeolli. Until his retirement in 2008, Daegang Brewery’s makgeolli was designated as the official dinner drink at the Blue House and was used more than 200 times at official banquets.

Ginseng liquor brewed with ginseng sent by the late President Roh Moo-hyun.

CEO Jo said, “The day before the president’s visit, the village chief came to place an order and took the liquor, but at that time, perhaps for security reasons, no one knew who was visiting,” adding, “We only found out later through the news that President Roh had visited.” He continued, “Later, when rice prices plummeted and farmers faced difficulties, the official dinner drink was changed to liquor made from our rice, and our brewery benefited greatly from that.”

The relationship between President Roh and Daegang Brewery continued until his retirement ceremony, when CEO Jo sent 2,000 bottles of makgeolli to Bongha Village as a token of gratitude. Later, President Roh sent ginseng in return, and CEO Jo brewed liquor with that ginseng. He said, “It felt too precious and meaningful to just consume it, so I made ginseng liquor, and it has already been over ten years. I have never opened it yet, but I plan to open and drink it on a meaningful day at the brewery someday.”

Subtle Saeng Makgeolli Brewed from Rice and Wheat... Preserving 90-Year-Old Jar Fermentation Tradition

Daegang Brewery's 'Sobaeksan Saeng Makgeolli'

The Sobaeksan Saeng Makgeolli, which President Roh fell for at their first meeting, is the flagship product of Daegang Brewery, accounting for over 80% of total sales. Brewed from rice and wheat flour, it carries a subtle sweetness overall, highlighting the simple and modest charm of traditional makgeolli.

Nowadays, with rice being abundant, the perception that makgeolli is brewed from rice dominates, but in the past when rice was scarce, wheat-based makgeolli was more common and natural. The makgeolli from Daegang Brewery, which has been brewing for over a century, originally was wheat-based makgeolli that over time incorporated the taste of rice. CEO Jo explained, “Rice makgeolli has a clean and light taste, while wheat makgeolli is thick, savory, and heavy. We use an optimal blend ratio to combine the strengths of both ingredients.”

Sobaeksan Saeng Makgeolli is a typical makgeolli that tingles and thickly coats the mouth, making it comfortable and enjoyable. The brewing uses natural carbonated water sourced from a deep limestone bed 180 meters underground beneath Jukryeong at the foot of Sobaeksan Mountain. The water is rich in carbonation and various minerals, and locally it has long been said to be water infused with the essence of Sobaeksan wild ginseng decomposing underground.

Daegang Brewery still uses 80 to 90-year-old earthenware jars for fermenting Makgeolli.

CEO Jo emphasized that their insistence on jar fermentation is a distinctive feature and pride of Daegang Brewery. While many breweries nowadays prefer stainless steel tank fermentation for ease of management, Daegang Brewery continues to maintain traditional earthenware aging. In the brewery’s fermentation room, about 40 earthenware jars, including some stamped with the production date of Showa Year 1 (1926) from Japan, are still actively used, some being 80 to 90 years old.

CEO Jo said, “Earthenware jars made of clay embrace the liquor like a mother’s arms,” adding, “The jars are like living organisms that breathe, so they don’t cool down or heat up quickly, preventing sudden temperature changes and maintaining the temperature favored by yeast, which improves the taste of the liquor.” He continued, “It’s true that jars are less convenient and harder to clean compared to stainless steel, but they are also part of our brewery’s identity. We will continue to preserve the clean and deep taste derived from earthenware.”