[Joyongjun's Journey] Deep Within Layers of Green, the Breath of Taegiwang Resides

Hidden Travel Spot in Hoengseong - Journey Following the Legend of King Taegi: Byeongjibang Valley, Eodapsan, and Taegisan

Behind the colorful and vibrant spring scenery of light green new buds and wild cherry blossoms, remote mountain areas continue along the Byeongjibang Valley. Across the stone bridges, there are several auto camping sites popular with family travelers throughout the valley.

Byeongjibang Valley

View from Taegisan Observatory

Hoengseong Hosugil

Wildflowers encountered on the Hoengseong Lake Trail, including Hyeonhosek, Guseulbungi, Gaksibutggot, and Sangwoebuljumeoni,

People walking along the Seomgang-gil in Hoengseong, filled with spring light

[Asia Economy, Travel Specialist Reporter Jo Yong-jun] The first weekend after the COVID-19 social distancing measures were lifted saw famous tourist spots filled with people. Tourist buses, which had been absent for a while, started running again with travelers on board. It feels like a complete return to normal life. However, it is still too early to be fully at ease. Therefore, for this travel feature, we decided to explore some well-hidden places. This time, it is Hoengseong in Gangwon Province. Specifically, the deepest part of Hoengseong. It is Eodapsan Mountain and Byeongjibang-ri Valley (Byeongjibang Valley), where the legend of King Taegi, the last king of Jinhan (辰韓), is deeply embedded. The path sparkling with fresh green leaves paints a vivid picture of a splendid spring day. The valley, which fully embraces the shadow of Eodapsan and the colorful spring flowers, fits perfectly with the spring scenery. There is more. The Taegisan trekking starting from Yangdugumi-jae on National Route 6 is also a must. Although it is a short 4km trail, the layered mountains of Baekdudaegan deeply touch your heart throughout the walk. If you happen to encounter the sea of clouds (雲海) embracing the mountain, it is nothing short of a heavenly sight. And that’s not all. Wildflowers such as Guseulbung-i, Hyeonhosek, Yangjikkot, Jaebikkot, and Gaksibutkkot bloom abundantly along the way.

Hoengseong, known as the hometown of Korean beef (Hanwoo), has many places linked to the legend of King Taegi, the last king of Jinhan. We head to Byeongjibang Valley, which is also called Sandigye Valley, where legends about Park Hyeokgeose, the founder of Silla, and King Taegi are told. It is a deep valley winding around Eodapsan Mountain. The name Byeongjibang (兵之方) comes from a legend that soldiers under King Taegi, who was chased by Park Hyeokgeose, stayed there. Another place name, Gapcheon (甲川), originates from a folk tale that King Taegi washed his blood-stained armor there.

Byeongjibang Valley is one of the most remote areas in Hoengseong. Following Gapcheon from Hoengseong-eup, the refreshing valley of Daegwandaecheon delights the eyes and ears. After passing the entrance to Hoengseong Dam and going a little further, you will find a road on the left leading to Byeongjibang Valley and Eodapsan. From here, the drive begins.

Passing the entrance of Byeongjibang Valley, the valley road stretches 10 km through Eodapsan Tourist Area, Byeongjibang 2-ri, Hoengseong Youth Training Center, and Byeongjibang 1-ri. Surrounded by high mountains such as Eodapsan, Taeuisan, and Balgyeosan, the valley has clear water and a moderate water volume. It is said never to dry up even during droughts. The water flowing between large and small rocks feels refreshing just by looking at it. Upon entering Byeongjibang-ro, the clear sound of the valley water and the fresh green leaves sparkling under the sunlight welcome travelers. With every turn, the forest deepens, and you feel like you are entering a remote scenic area.

The valley area is densely forested with trees such as wild cherry, oak, and wild peach. Especially around Seonnyeotang (Fairy Pool), various strange rocks and wildflowers create a spectacular view. Nearby, small tributaries with beautiful names like Garakgol, Godeungol, Saemgol, and Juchutgol flow. The sound of water flowing over river pebbles and birds singing through the forest is not flashy but quietly charming.

Since it is a valley only known to those in the know, vehicles are rarely encountered along the 10 km drive. You can fully enjoy the aesthetics of slowness in a tranquil atmosphere.

If you have enough time, hiking Eodapsan Mountain is also worthwhile. Starting from parking near Hoengseong Oncheon (Hot Springs), the course goes through Seonbawi (Sun Rock), Eodapsan’s ancient pine trees and Naksudae (Waterfall), the summit, and descends to a three-way junction. The total distance is 8 km and takes about 4 hours. The trail descending along the valley beyond the summit is as beautiful as any famous mountain.

Byeongjibang Valley is not easily accessible from outside, making it suitable for an extended stay trip. Perhaps for this reason, there are several large and small campgrounds along the valley. Among them, the most well-known are Byeongjibang Auto Camping Site and Seonbawi Camping Site. They offer convenience facilities and are located next to the beautiful valley, making them popular among family campers.

Passing Byeongjibang 1-ri and the campgrounds, the valley gradually deepens. The fresh green spring scenery heading toward its peak inside captivates your eyes without a moment’s rest.

Leaving Byeongjibang Valley and passing Hoengseong Lake, we head to Taegisan Mountain (1261m). Taegisan, the highest mountain in Hoengseong, also takes its name from King Taegi. It is a mountain ridge dividing Hoengseong’s Dunnae-myeon and Pyeongchang’s Bongpyeong-myeon. It is said that King Taegi, who was chased by the Silla army, built Taegisan Fortress here and resisted Silla.

The easiest and fastest way to climb Taegisan is to drive to Yanggudumijae (980m) on National Route 6. It is the pass summit between Dunnae and Myeonon. It is about a 30-minute drive from Byeongjibang Valley. With no cars rushing closely behind, it is perfect for a leisurely drive along the winding road.

From Yanggudumijae to the summit of Taegisan is about 4 km. The elevation difference is not large, so it is not very strenuous to walk. The road is half cement-paved and half unpaved.

Following the steep path toward the Taegisan Observatory, after about 30 minutes, you reach a ridge with wind turbines installed. The panoramic views spreading left and right are excellent, but the whistling sound of the large windmills turning is transmitted throughout your body. It feels like your chest is cleared out.

From here, after about 30 minutes of walking up and down like a stroll, you reach Taegi Branch School. It opened on June 10, 1968, and closed in 1976, lasting only 8 years. However, even after more than 50 years, it preserves the school site and welcomes tourists who come to take a nostalgic trip instead of students. Located at the mountain summit and called the ‘first school under the sky,’ Taegi Branch School has now transformed into a recreational course combined with an ecological exploration trail.

Standing at the summit observatory prepared below the military base, a magnificent view of the layered mountains of Baekdudaegan unfolds. You can see the Bongpyeong area of Pyeongchang as well as the mountain ridges extending beyond Dunnae in Hoengseong. With nothing blocking the view in all directions, you face yourself standing in the middle of a grand mountain range. In spring and autumn, when the temperature difference is large, if the sea of clouds (雲海) appears embracing the mountains, it is nothing short of a heavenly scene.

The observatory is already a well-known spot among photographers. The ever-changing scenery adds to the joy of photography. Around the observatory, various flowers boast a heavenly garden, and in winter, a silver world made of snow unfolds.

The water flowing down from Taegisan meets Unbongcheon and forms Seomgang River, which represents Hoengseong. Seomgang, which briefly forms a large body of water at Hoengseong Lake in Gapcheon-myeon, passes through Hoengseong-eup and Ganhyeon Recreation Area, ending its journey in Yeoju where it joins the Namhan River.

Hoengseong Lake, which holds back the large water, offers beautiful scenery as lovely as the name Seomgang. The mountain slopes gently flowing into the lake overlap, drawing layered mountain shadows in the water. Walking along the Hoengseong Lake Trail while enjoying such scenery has become a popular healing trekking course.

Hoengseong = Text and photos by Travel Specialist Reporter Jo Yong-jun jun21@

◇ Travel Notes

△ Getting there = Take the Saemal IC on Yeongdong Expressway or Hoengseong IC on Jungang Expressway, pass through Hoengseong-eup and the entrance to Hoengseong Dam, and after a short distance, you will find a three-way junction leading to Byeongjibang Valley and Eodapsan.

△ Food = Hanwoo (Korean beef) is the top choice. Hoengseong Chukhyup Hanwoo Plaza, which has branches in Hoengseong Main Branch, Ucheon Branch, Saemal Branch, and Dunnae Branch, is reliable. Near the sports complex, there are popular hangover soup restaurants frequented by locals. Anheung Jjinppang (steamed buns) shops in front of the township office, including Anheung Jjinppang and Sim Sun-nyeo Anheung Jjinppang, are highly regarded.

△ Attractions = Forest Experience Center, Cheongtaesan Natural Recreation Forest, Birch Tree Museum, Hoengseong Lake Trail, Pungsuwon Cathedral, Hoengseong Luge Experience Center, Anheung Jjinppang Village, and Seomgang Trail are among the attractions.