[Joyongjun's Journey] White Cherry Blossoms Blooming on ‘Ssaldari’ After Magnolia Petal Rain

A Charming Spring Journey in Geochang, Gyeongnam - Passing the Beautifully Named Ssaldari Flower Path Leads to the Splendid Cherry Blossom Spectacle at Deokcheon Seowon

Geochang has several cherry blossom spots such as Deokcheon Seowon, Ungokcheon, and Byeonggok Valley, but in terms of tranquility and charm, Yonghyeonjeong Ssaldari is the top choice. Sitting on the stone bridge and enjoying the fully bloomed cherry blossoms is an unmatched experience.

The Splendid Spring Scenery of Deokcheon Seowon

The thrilling Udu Mountain Y-shaped suspension bridge beyond imagination

Susungdae Tourist Site Dyed in Spring Light

Geochang-eup viewed from Mangdeoksan Mountain

[Asia Economy Reporter Yongjun Cho, travel specialist] Spring in Geochang, Gyeongnam begins and is perfected here. It is Deokcheon Seowon, located in a very deep valley leading to Mangdeok Mountain. When a few magnolia trees bloom, the people of Geochang say that spring has finally arrived. When the magnolia bows its head, cherry blossoms follow, continuing the splendid spring. Scattered cherry blossom petals wet the lake, and the reflection of the seowon in the lake adds charm, making the spring scenery reach its peak. Among them, the cherry blossom tunnel over Ungokcheon in front of the seowon is the hottest spot among hot spots. There is also another place. The beautifully named Ssaldari (Rice Bridge) is considered one of the most charming cherry blossom spots. Geochang embraces over 20 mountains exceeding 1000 meters in elevation, including Jirisan, Deogyusan, and Gayasan. With high and deep mountains come many valleys everywhere. Among them, the best are Wolseong Valley and Susungdae, where its water flows. Originally called Susongdae (愁送臺), it was renamed Susungdae (搜勝臺) by Toegye Yi Hwang during the Joseon Dynasty, who gave it a name befitting its beautiful scenery. Perhaps because of this, prominent high-ranking officials and scholars devoted to their studies spent their later years enjoying the arts here. Not only that, Udusan, which houses the Anti-Aging Healing Land, is famous for having Korea’s first Y-shaped suspension bridge. As spring ripens, avoiding the well-known spring flower spots, I head to Geochang to find a quiet yet charming spring travel destination.

First, I go to Ungokcheon, which was famous as a picnic spot for the old Geochang people. After about a 5-minute drive from Geochang town, Ungokcheon appears. On the hill beside the path along the stream, Deokcheon Seowon, barely visible behind cherry blossoms, catches the eye. Located in the valley of Mangdeok Mountain, Deokcheon Seowon is a cherry blossom spot known only to those in the know. In spring, magnolias embroider white patterns in the courtyard of the old seowon house, and when the magnolia flowers begin to bow one by one, the cherry blossom festival finally unfolds.

Deokcheon Seowon commemorates Geumseong Daegun, the sixth son of King Sejong who was executed while plotting to restore King Danjong, and Chungjanggong (Loyal and Sturdy Duke) Yi Boheum (李甫欽).

As you step inside the seowon, a small lake surrounded by cherry trees captures the seowon like a painting. The colorful reflections of spring begin to dance on the water. When the wind blows, you are intoxicated by the pale pink flower rain falling on the lake, naturally exclaiming in admiration.

Spring at Deokcheon Seowon, reminiscent of a flower palace, offers photo opportunities everywhere. Among them, the stone bridge over Ungokcheon connecting the path and the seowon cannot be missed. This place, once visited only by those who knew it, has started to get crowded over the past few years. This is because cherry blossom photos taken on this stone bridge have spread through SNS (social networking services). If you want to take your own cherry blossom life shot standing on the stone bridge, it is best to visit early when there are fewer people.

About 20 minutes by car from the seowon, Ssaldari in Byeonghang Village, Gohak-ri, also boasts outstanding cherry blossom scenery. The cherry blossom branches drooping over the stone bridge, wide enough for one person to pass comfortably, create a unique scene. Crossing the stone bridge, families out for a picnic enjoy flower viewing under the pavilion.

Here is a story about why it is called Ssaldari (Rice Bridge). To the west of Gohak-ri is Anui-myeon, Hamyang County. The old Route 3 was the main road to Hanyang (Seoul) during the Joseon Dynasty. When there was no bridge here, travelers suffered inconvenience. In 1758, the Oseongjae brothers, Seonghwa, donated 1,000 seom (a traditional Korean volume unit) of white rice. They procured large stones, had stonemasons shape them, and transported them for three days to build the bridge. The Ssaldari thus created is now used only as a bridge to the pavilion, and when the cherry blossoms bloom, people stand one by one on the bridge to capture the beautiful scenery.

Another charm of Geochang’s spring scenery is the weeping cherry blossom path that blooms in full when the cherry blossoms fall. Although the fresh leaves are still budding, the weeping cherry trees lined along the road from Wolseong Valley to Byeonggok Valley finish spring in splendid fashion.

On the Wolseong Valley road is Geochang’s most famous spot, Susungdae. Its original name was Susongdae (愁送臺). The site was a border between Silla and Baekje during the Three Kingdoms period, and it was called Susongdae because Baekje envoys going to Silla were seen off with sorrow at the rock. The character for sorrow (愁) and send off (送) were used. The name was changed by Toegye Yi Hwang. Visiting his in-laws in Geochang for his father-in-law’s 60th birthday, Toegye, who had only heard the name, composed a poem and renamed it Susungdae (搜勝臺). The new name uses the character for search (搜) and victory or scenic beauty (勝), meaning a place where one finds a famous scenic spot.

The large flat rock in front of Susungdae is densely covered with inscriptions left by old scholars. These include Yeonbanseok, meaning the rock where inkstones were ground; Sepiljim, the place where brushes were washed; and Jangjugap, where Makgeolli was drunk. Among the inscriptions, the names Im and Shin appear frequently, mostly descendants of Im Hun and Shin Gwon, who lived nearby and were associates of Toegye Yi Hwang.

Following the Susungdae valley, greeted by azaleas and cherry blossoms, you come across Guyun Seowon and Gwansuru Pavilion. In the seowon yard stands a turtle-shaped stele inscribed with the large characters “Sanggo Sujang” (High Mountains and Long Waters), and in front of the seowon stands a 400-year-old ginkgo tree towering proudly.

Crossing the Guyun Bridge leads to Yosujeong Pavilion (樂水停). Teacher Shin Gwon enjoyed feng shui here and sometimes taught his disciples. The pavilion is three kan wide at the front and two kan deep on the side, using natural rock as its foundation. The pavilion’s floor is a well-type floor, surrounded on all sides by a railing with a geometric pattern.

Leaving Susungdae, I head to Udusan’s Y-shaped suspension bridge, the hottest spot in Geochang recently. Udusan, called Byeolyusan for its outstanding scenery, is mysterious with its bizarre rocky peaks reminiscent of a mythical utopia. Here lies the Anti-Aging Healing Land, created primarily for healing using the pristine forest environment. The famous attraction in the Healing Land is the Y-shaped suspension bridge connecting the three peaks of Udusan. The three bridges meet in the air without any piers.

The charm of the suspension bridge is its dizzying thrill. You can feel it as soon as you walk on it. The feeling that there is nothing supporting you heightens the thrill. Every time you step on the grid-patterned steel floor with holes, your legs tingle. Standing on the bridge and looking around, you can take in the spectacular rocky scenery of Udusan and the splendid spring landscape in full bloom at a glance.

Geochang = Text and photos by Yongjun Cho, travel specialist jun21@

◇ Travel Notes

△ Directions = From the Seoul metropolitan area, take the Gyeongbu and Jungbu Expressways, transfer at Biryong JC to the Daejeon-Tongyeong Expressway, and exit at Hamyang IC. Then take the Gwangju-Daegu Expressway toward Daegu, exit at Geochang IC, pass through the town, and head toward Jangpalli; the seowon is nearby.