[Joyongjun's Travel Journey] Spring Watercolor Painted by Wind and Waves

Yeongdeok Blue Road Coastal Road Spring Welcome - 46km Premium Coastal Path from Daegae Park to Goraebul Beach

The scenery encountered at Goraebul Beach, where the wind and waves create sea ripples that look like a painting.

Yeongdeok Gangchuk Coastal Road

A spring quote at a cafe with a beautiful ocean view catches the eye

Samsa Marine Observatory

Goraebul Beach as seen from Gwanaedae at Sangtaesan

[Asia Economy, Reporter Cho Yong-jun, Travel Specialist] The cold is retreating and the breath of spring is stirring. The scent of spring, which began in the south, has started to emit its fragrance. The breeze blowing through the quiet seaside villages and the bustling ports is warm. We set out to welcome spring along the premium coastal road of Yeongdeok, Gyeongbuk. The journey starts at the Snow Crab Park and continues through Ganggu Port, Gangchuk Coastal Road, Sangdaesan Observatory, and ends at Goraebul Beach. This route features the most beautiful sunrise path in Korea, delicious snow crab that captures the spring appetite, and the largest wind power generation complex. Among these, the romance of driving along the coastal road while breathing in the spring breeze coming from the cobalt-blue sea surely stands out the most. The wind blowing through the car window has crossed the sea but is not damp. The waves rolling in perform like an orchestra, painting a vivid spring watercolor in shades of green and white. The ever-changing scenery of the East Coast leaves nothing to be discarded. The seaside views rushing past the car window keep catching my eye, making me stop the car several times. Compared to the brief effort of holding the steering wheel, the scenery before me is overwhelmingly rewarding. To enjoy this taste, you must abandon the fast-paced Route 7 in an instant. You need to drive slowly and leisurely. Follow the old Route 7 and the coastal Route 20, which was once used only by locals, to drive along the spring sea.

The Yeongdeok coastal road journey stretches about 46 km from Jangsa Beach at the southernmost point to Goraebul Beach at the northernmost point. It is a renowned premium coastal road on the East Sea that generously reveals the inner beauty of Yeongdeok. This road accompanies the Yeongdeok Blue Road, which traverses mountains and coastlines. Large and small ports and humble seaside villages embrace the coastline, and a low road runs along it, brushing past the East Sea.

The journey begins at Snow Crab Park, which is also the southernmost starting point of the Blue Road. About three minutes from Snow Crab Park, you reach Jangsa Beach, famous for its dense pine forest and wide sandy beach. Here stands the Jangsa Landing Operation Victory Memorial Hall.

After about ten minutes of driving, you encounter a boldly standing observatory facing the rolling waves. This is the Samsa Marine Walkway. I parked the car and entered the marine walkway. The cobalt-blue East Sea beckons invitingly. Walking step by step along the walkway toward the sea, accompanied by crashing waves, gives the illusion of embracing the East Sea alone.

Turning my gaze to the left, a red lighthouse waves from afar. This is Ganggu Port, Yeongdeok’s premier harbor. The Osipcheon River, flowing down from the foothills of Juwangsan in Cheongsong, meets the East Sea here. The port is sometimes called 'Gangguri' because it is located at the river mouth.

The famous 'Snow Crab Street' restaurant area in Ganggu Port stretches over 3 km. Although foot traffic has decreased due to COVID-19, every year around this time, the area is bustling with people eager to taste snow crab.

From Ganggu Port, leave Route 7 and take the coastal Route 20, where the coastal road unfolds. This is the Gangchuk (Ganggu-Chuksan) Coastal Road, considered the highlight of Yeongdeok’s coastal roads. It boasts the best coastal scenery in Yeongdeok that you could never dream of from the inland Route 7. Ports and harbors, sandy beaches and cliffs, humble fishing villages and charming cafes?all imaginable coastal attractions gather here.

This road, which used to be a remote area with only two buses a day known mostly to locals traveling from Ganggu to Chuksan, began to be known to people after the establishment of the Sunrise Park and the wind power generation complex. Now, it is selected as one of Korea’s 100 Beautiful Roads, a top-class premium route.

Opening the car window, the breeze blowing in has crossed the sea but is not damp. The ever-changing scenery of the East Coast shifts in the blink of an eye, leaving no place to discard. Just as you realize the breathtaking view, the scenery has already moved far away.

About halfway along the road is Yeongdeok Sunrise Park. The park’s symbol, the Changpomar Lighthouse, has a unique shape resembling a snow crab’s claw raising the sun. It cleverly connects the image of the snow crab hometown with the famous sunrise spot. There is a staircase leading from the park to the place where you can watch the sunrise. Climbing the stairs, it feels as if the blue sea is spread beneath your feet and you are floating on the vast ocean. Wildflowers such as daffodils, fan flowers, and pink carnations welcome visitors each season.

On the hill above the park is the wind power generation complex. The wind blowing all year round turns the enormous wind turbines, creating a spectacular sight. The area includes a camping site, a renewable energy exhibition hall, and an airplane exhibition hall, making it perfect for family outings.

Passing Changpomar Lighthouse and following the coast, you reach Chayu Village, the original village of Yeongdeok snow crab. It is said that in the second year of King Chungmok of Goryeo, the first Yeonghae magistrate came to inspect this village, crossing a hill by cart, which led to the village being called 'Chayu Village.' Although it is snow crab season, few visitors come, and the scene depicts a quiet and charming small fishing village.

The coastal road leading to Chuksan Port has many ups and downs, causing the sea level to change frequently. When the road dips low enough to brush the sea with its shoulders, the fierce waves splash the car windows thoroughly.

Climbing a hill, Chuksan Port and the triangular Jukdosan Recreation Area warmly welcome from afar. Chuksan Port is one of Yeongdeok County’s two major fishing ports but feels cozy as it is not as crowded as Ganggu Port. The expressions of fishermen cleaning squid at the harbor come across as friendly. The crescent-shaped Chuksan Beach is only about 300 meters long, but the Blue Road bridge and Jukdosan create a picturesque scene.

From Chuksan Port, following the coast closely and passing Daejin Beach and crossing a tidal flat, you arrive at Goraebul Beach, the final destination of the coastal road.

'Bul' is an old word for mud or sand. In the late Goryeo period, poet Mokheon Lee Saek climbed Sangdaesan and saw whales spouting water and playing in the sea in front of Byeonggok, naming the place 'Goraebul.' On Sangdaesan, there is a pavilion called Gwanaedae. The view of Goraebul Beach from here is spectacular. It stretches across six coastal villages including Byeonggok-ri, Byeonggok-myeon, with a length of 8 km. The golden sand of the beach is coarse and does not stick to the body, and it has been said since ancient times that sand bathing here is effective for heart and circulatory diseases.

Passing through the pine forest, I sat on a bench. The distant sea reflected the sky’s color, while the nearby sea mirrored the deep green of the pine trees. Everything spread out was just the sea, and a calmness came over my heart.

I flew a drone into the sky. It looked as if a lump of cobalt had been poured out; what could be bluer than this sea before my eyes? The waves that suddenly surged danced in blue, white, green, and yellow. The sea, playing the spring waltz, produced sounds that were both calm and dazzling. No, it was like the brushwork of a master painter drawing white trees stretching tall on a white canvas.

Passing the sandy beach, I went to the shore. I put my hand into the seawater sparkling under the winter sun. When I withdrew my hand, it seemed as if the water would soon turn blue.

The breathtaking scenery of the Yeongdeok coastal road, which I have driven over 100 ri (about 40 km), ends here. The red sunset began to seep through the endless pine forest. The once vigorously rolling green sea was now dyed red.

Yeongdeok = Text and photos by Cho Yong-jun, Travel Specialist jun21@

◇Travel Notes

△Getting There=From the metropolitan area, take the Gyeongbu Expressway or Jungbu Naeryuk Expressway, then transfer to the Sangju-Yeongdeok Expressway and drive straight to the end of the road where Yeongdeok Ganggu Port is located. Just before entering Ganggu Port, if you go a little to the right towards Pohang, you will find the starting points of the journey: Snow Crab Park and Jangsa Beach.

△Food=Of course, snow crab is the most famous. You can taste it at Ganggu Port or the original snow crab villages. The coastal road ends near Hupo Port in Uljin. Hupo Port has well-known snow crab specialty restaurants. If snow crab is like a dinner with a drink, for lunch, there are places in Ganggu Port famous for grilled fish. One restaurant is simply called 'Grilled Fish House.' They prepare grilled fish with seasonal catches, and it is delicious.