[Square] Colombia Coffee with Various Changes and Stories

The Andes Mountains, which rise along the Pacific coast from Chile, split into three ranges?western, central, and eastern?upon reaching Colombia. These ranges descend toward the Atlantic side and eventually disappear into the plains. Coffee is extensively cultivated on both slopes of the western and central ranges, an area known as Eje Cafetero. In Korean, this translates to the ‘coffee production axis.’

Recognized for its beautiful coffee cultural landscape, UNESCO designated this region as a World Heritage Site in 2011. Coffee is produced in 15 departments, and the flavor of coffee varies greatly from one department or region to another. Even the same variety tastes different depending on the cultivation area. This is similar to how the taste of wine changes according to soil, water, and climate. Colombia’s specialty Arabica coffee is deeply loved by coffee enthusiasts worldwide.

The National Federation of Coffee Growers of Colombia (FNC) has 15 branches, with two-thirds of coffee growers enrolled. The Federation, together with the central government and 33 cooperatives, establishes policies related to coffee cultivation and distribution. It sets the domestic coffee reference price, operates the Coffee Industry Development Fund, and is responsible for coffee research and technology dissemination. Through its subsidiary Alma Caf?, it exports green coffee beans.

The Colombian government collects 6 cents USD per pound of exported green coffee beans to fund the Coffee Industry Development Fund and cover the operating costs of the Coffee Growers Federation. Coffee cooperatives purchase pergamino coffee?coffee with the parchment layer still intact?from farmers, process it into green coffee beans with a bluish-green hue, sort and package it, and export it through ExpoCaf? or Alma Caf?, which belong to the cooperatives.

Although in very small quantities, coffee is also sold domestically. Unlike the single-structure cooperatives in Korea, Colombia has a dual administrative system consisting of the Coffee Growers Federation and coffee cooperatives. However, considering their similar functions, equity structures, and collaborative practices, they can practically be regarded as a single organization.

Coffee farmers, whether affiliated with the Coffee Growers Federation or cooperatives, may choose not to use these distribution channels and instead sell their coffee directly to exporters. This freedom to sell directly has been granted since five years ago. As a result, a subtle tension can be observed between the Coffee Growers Federation, cooperatives, and coffee farmers.

There are signs of change in the existing coffee production and distribution structure centered on the Coffee Growers Federation and cooperatives. Younger generation coffee farmers organize their own groups by region, cultivate special coffee varieties not recommended by the Federation, establish their own processing facilities, commercialize their coffee, and sell it directly.

This can be seen as a kind of rebellion against the existing coffee industry structure.

Various stories are being woven into Colombian coffee. Coffee grown by demobilized combatants is sold under the brand ‘Fruit of Hope.’ Following the 2016 peace agreement, many guerrillas laid down their arms and now cultivate coffee with plows in hand.

Female heads of households in conflict zones produce ‘Women’s Coffee.’ During the 60-year civil war, many women lost their families and became victims of human rights abuses. The Colombian government and international organizations actively support the improvement of their lives. Their economic stability is key to Colombia’s lasting peace.

Private companies and Catholic dioceses also assist victims of the civil war and small-scale coffee growers. Korea, which has experienced fratricidal conflict, contributes to Colombia’s peacebuilding through KOICA projects. Korea imports about 100 million USD worth of green coffee beans and processed coffee products annually from Colombia. Colombian Arabica coffee, rich in aroma and sweet flavor, carries the essence of its water, wind, sunlight, and soil, as well as the stains left by conflict, poverty, and civil war.

Chu Jong-yeon, Ambassador to Colombia