[Jo Yongjun's Travel Journey] Now in Season, Winter Tastes Best Here

Delicious Journey in Boryeong, Chungnam - Cheonbuk Oyster Farm for Nourishment, Hakseong-ri Dinosaur Fossil Site for Sightseeing

Cheonbuk Oyster Farm Grilled Oysters

Ocheon Port Scenery

Steamed Oysters from Cheonbuk Oyster Farm

Oyster baskets piled up at the entrance of the oyster restaurant

Dinosaur sculpture at Hakseong-ri Dinosaur Footprint Fossil Beach

Sunset viewed from Chungcheong Suyeong Fortress

Chungcheong Suyeongseong

[Asia Economy, Travel Specialist Reporter Jo Yongjun] The Boryeong Undersea Tunnel connecting Boryeong and Taean in Chungnam opened at the end of last year. The undersea tunnel is the longest in Korea and ranks fifth in the world. The opening of the tunnel reduced travel time from Boryeong Daecheon Port to Taean Yeongmok Port from 1 hour 30 minutes to just 10 minutes. I traveled from Taean to Boryeong via the undersea tunnel. Boryeong is more familiar to those of a certain age by the combined name 'Daecheon,' which is merged with 'Boryeong.' It may remind you of the sea you reached by taking the old Janghang Line train. There is also Daecheon Beach, famous for its Mud Festival. The 3.5 km-long white sandy beach is a spectacular sight. Much like the miracle of Moses, the sea path opening at Muchangpo is also not to be missed. However, this journey heads to Cheonbuk-myeon in Boryeong. Cheonbuk is popular for its seasonal delicacy: oysters. Cheonbuk oysters are considered one of Boryeong's nine best local specialties due to their excellent taste and aroma. Around the Jangeun-ri fishing port, a savory smell fills the air. Every restaurant overflows with the aroma of grilled and steamed oysters. But that's not all. In Cheonbuk Hakseong-ri, there is also Chungnam's first dinosaur footprints. Here, three dinosaur sculptures that seem to be strolling along the white sandy beach are even more impressive than the footprints. We also visit Ocheon Port in Ocheon-myeon, located deep within the Cheonsuman waterway. The view of Ocheon Port from the Chungcheong Naval Fortress, one of the three major naval bases of the Joseon Dynasty, is truly a masterpiece.

Cheonbuk is the fastest way to access the west coast, but with the opening of the undersea tunnel, I drove along Taean Beach and crossed into Boryeong land from Yeongmok Port. The region changed in exactly 10 minutes. Once out of the undersea tunnel, Daecheon Beach is within reach. However, today I leave behind Daecheon, Boryeong's top attraction, and head to Cheonbuk-myeon. There, an indispensable culinary delight awaits travelers. Tasting local specialty dishes made with fresh ingredients deepens the travel experience.

Surrounded by the sea on three sides, Korea is abundant in seafood and easily accessible. Especially on the west coast, due to tidal flats, oysters, ark shells, and live octopus are commonly found. Among them, the 'Cheonbuk Oyster Complex' in Jangeun-ri, Cheonbuk-myeon, Boryeong, is a place to enjoy winter delicacies.

The Cheonbuk Oyster Complex began in the early 1990s after the completion of the Hongseong Embankment, when villagers started small restaurants selling grilled oysters. Now, it has expanded to over 100 stores and established itself as an oyster complex. Initially, grilled oysters were the main menu, but now you can enjoy various dishes such as raw oysters, steamed oysters, oyster rice, and oyster sashimi salad.

Oysters, called the 'milk of the sea,' are good for dieting, rich in calcium, and contain iron and copper. They are known to be effective against anemia and, due to their high taurine content, are excellent for lowering cholesterol and blood pressure.

Cheonbuk oysters are larger than those from other west coast regions. The vertical length of the oyster shell reaches about 6 to 7 cm, making them ideal for grilling. Even after grilling over fire for more than 1 to 2 minutes, they retain a moist sweetness.

I entered a restaurant among dozens lined up at Jangeun-ri fishing port. Upon opening the door, the aroma of grilled and steamed oysters filled the air. At oyster complex restaurants, each table has a rubber basin measuring 12 cm wide and 33 cm high, filled with Cheonbuk oysters. Without removing the shells, after about a minute on the fire, the adductor muscle inside the shell cooks and detaches with a popping sound. The sound is so loud it surprises you. Quickly, you grab the oyster shell with tongs and use a pointed oyster knife to scoop out the meat to eat.

Steamed oysters rival grilled oysters. The steamed version is mild and less salty, making it easier to eat. Adding red scallops to the steamed oysters provides a sweet and chewy taste that stimulates the palate. Finishing with oyster kalguksu (noodle soup) or oyster ramen, which includes a ladle of Cheonbuk oysters, can restore even a lost appetite.

After the oysters pleased the palate, it's time to delight the eyes. On the north side of Maensapji Island at Hakseong-ri Beach, you can see dinosaur footprint fossils from the Cretaceous period, about 100 million years ago.

Most dinosaur footprint fossils reported in Korea have been concentrated in Gyeongsang and Jeolla provinces, but this is the first discovery in Chungnam.

On an island slightly away from the Hakseong-ri coast, 13 fossilized dinosaur footprints have been found. This holds natural historical value, confirming that the entire Korean Peninsula was a major habitat for dinosaurs during the Cretaceous period.

To see the dinosaur footprint fossils, you must visit during low tide to walk onto the island. However, if you miss the tide and cannot see the fossils directly, don't be disappointed. There are giant dinosaur sculptures on the coastal white sandy beach that are even more popular. This place is also famous as a spot for memorable photos.

Next, I head to Ocheon Port. Surrounded snugly by nearby mountain ridges, it is a cozy harbor that shields not only waves but also the wind.

Ocheon Port was home to the Chungcheong Naval Fortress, one of the three major naval bases during the Joseon Dynasty. According to the 'Annals of King Sejong,' under the Chungcheong Naval Fortress, there were 142 warships and about 8,400 naval soldiers. The fortress was built in 1509 and served as the security center of the west coast until its abolition in 1896. At that time, the fortress had five gates and dozens of buildings, but after its abolition, most collapsed, leaving only the arch gate and some walls.

The greatest attraction of Chungcheong Naval Fortress is the coastal scenery of the Cheonsuman area. Sitting at Yeongbojeong Pavilion, where the sharp winter wind blows, and watching the sunset over Cheonsuman is the ultimate luxury.

Walking about 2 km along a quiet path from Ocheon Port, you reach an observatory on the mountain ridge called the Palsaek Boryeong Essay Observatory. Named after the eight themes of 'Gwanchon Essay' by Boryeong-born writer Lee Moon-gu, the observatory offers panoramic views of the Cheonsuman sunset, Ocheon Port area, and the inland region of Naepo.

To the east, the majestic Oseosan Mountain stands tall. The waterway extending below Oseosan guides the gaze. Passing the Boryeong Embankment, you encounter the scenery where Yeongbojeong Pavilion, Chungcheong Naval Fortress, and Ocheon Port harmonize. The clustered boats at the pier and scattered fishing vessels on the surrounding waters evoke the atmosphere of a summer harbor.

About 2.5 km from Ocheon Port is Galmaemot Historic Site. The village's mountain behind resembles a thirsty horse drinking water, and the calm sea surrounded by islands looks like a pond, which is how the place got its name. The sandy beach here was a military training ground for soldiers of Chungcheong Naval Fortress. Many martyrs perished here during the Catholic Persecution of the Byeongin Year.

At Ocheon Port, winter delicacies such as 'Ganjaemi' (skate fish) and pen shell dishes are very popular. Ganjaemi sashimi salad, made by trimming the skate fish and mixing it with fresh vegetables in a sweet and sour dressing, offers a mild taste. Pen shell is enjoyed in dishes like grilled pen shell bulgogi and shabu-shabu, providing a chewy texture that whets the appetite.

Boryeong = Text and photos by Jo Yongjun, Travel Specialist jun21

◇ Travel Notes

△ Getting there = From the metropolitan area, take the West Coast Expressway and exit at Gwangcheon IC for the fastest route to Ocheon Port. To reach the Cheonbuk Oyster Complex, it is good to use the Hongseong Embankment. If your destination is Daecheon Beach, it is also recommended to take the Boryeong Undersea Tunnel and cross over to Taean.