[Jo Yongjun's Travel Stories] Would You Like a Glass of Makgeolli with Old Tales of Samgangnaru?

Yecheon Journey Along the Waterways - Rich Attractions Including Samgang Jumak, Hoeryongpo Village, and Choganjeong

The 500-year-old pagoda tree at Samgang Ferry, which shared joys and sorrows with Samgang Joomak, silently stands its ground, covered with the moss of time.

You can enjoy buchujeon, baechujeon, and Makgeolli at the newly established tavern next to the old Samgangjumak.

Hoeryongpo Village

Villagers crossing the Bbungbbung Bridge

Choganjeong

Naeseongcheon

Geumdangsil Village Pine Forest

Hydroxycaproic acid

[Asia Economy, Travel Specialist Reporter Jo Yongjun]We head to Samgang Village along the Nakdong River waterway. Samgang refers to the point where the Nakdong River, Naeseongcheon, and Geumcheon converge. Along the riverside of that village stands the only remaining Joseon Dynasty tavern in the country. It is a tavern that has been preserved for over 100 years by the madam who served drinks to travelers crossing the river by ferry, boatmen, and others, often bending over the tables. Although there are no longer madams or boatmen, the tavern remains, attracting visitors. Next to the tavern stand two 500-year-old pagoda trees. These ancient trees, covered with the moss of time, are the protagonists of the glorious days of Samgang Ferry Terminal and surely hold the full history of Samgang Tavern. Just a short distance along the waterway from the tavern is Hoeryongpo Village, called 'art created by nature.' It is also the most famous attraction in Yecheon. Inside the waterway, sand that has accumulated and been carved over countless ages forms a white sandy beach wider than the village itself, boasting the best water meander scenery in Korea. Crossing the so-called 'Ppyongppyong Bridge,' made by joining perforated construction steel plates, is also a delightful experience. And that's not all. Yecheon has several pavilions with outstanding charm. Among them, Choganjeong is considered the foremost. It sits atop a rock where water flowing down from the Sobaek Mountain range bends sharply. Sitting on the pavilion and looking out at the scenery is pleasant, but sitting on the rock across and gazing at the pavilion is even more enjoyable. Geumdangsil Village is perfect for a 'time travel' back to the past along traditional houses, stone walls, and pine forests.

Hoeryongpo, an island within the land, is the most famous attraction in Yecheon. Hoeryongpo Village lies where the Naeseongcheon waterway bends, protected by mountain ridges. Inside the waterway, sand accumulated and carved over countless ages forms a white sandy beach wider than the village. Near Hoeryongpo, which means the waterway coils like a dragon taking flight, there are many place names related to dragons. To the north of the village is Biryongsan Mountain, across the first Ppyongppyong Bridge is Hoeryong Village, and beyond the second Ppyongppyong Bridge is Yongpo Village.

Unless you have a special purpose, there is no need to bring a car into the village. You can simply park at Hoeryong Village parking lot and cross the Ppyongppyong Bridge. Driving there requires a detour of at least 30 minutes to avoid the waterway. The Ppyongppyong Bridge information sign states, "The Ppyongppyong Bridge, made of perforated steel plates, was originally called the 'Pongpong Bridge,' but due to media misusage, it became known as Ppyongppyong Bridge." When stepping on it, water bubbles up through the holes in the steel plates from the sand below.

The riverbed beneath the bridge is filled with white sand, and the water is shallow. Sitting on the narrow Ppyongppyong Bridge, dipping your feet in the water, and gazing at the tranquil riverside village scenery or walking barefoot slowly on the white sandy beach to feel the texture of the sand at your toes is delightful. In the era of COVID-19, you will come to know the rare feeling of 'peacefulness.' The village does not have any eye-catching scenery, but it is good to leisurely explore the peaceful atmosphere of the riverside village.

To see the village panorama, you should go to the Hoeryongpo Observatory (Hoeryongdae) near the summit of Biryongsan Mountain. Park your car at the Jangansa Temple parking lot, built after the unification of the Three Kingdoms by Silla to pray for the people's peace, and walk up. It is only a 400-meter walk to the observatory.

The observatory is located on a cliff overlooking the Naeseongcheon almost vertically. However, the view is so vast that it feels more peaceful than dizzying.

You can see the beautifully golden sandy beach and the dazzlingly clear silver Naeseongcheon at a glance. Looking at this scenery evokes the illusion of becoming an immortal, such is the beauty of this island village within the land. Also, looking at the mountains layered to the right of the village, you can enjoy the fun of finding a heart-shaped mountain nestled between the ridges.

Leaving the observatory, follow the Naeseongcheon waterway to Samgang Village. Samgang is the point where the Nakdong River, Naeseongcheon, and Geumcheon meet. Along the Nakdong riverside of that village stands the only Joseon Dynasty tavern in the country, Samgang Tavern.

In the old days, many kinds of people used Samgang Ferry. Scholars taking the state examination, peddlers, farmers, boatmen, regardless of status or wealth, all frequented the tavern. The tavern bustled day and night. However, as times changed, the tavern lost its original function. Until her death in 2005 at the age of 88, Grandma Yu Okryeon preserved the tavern for over 100 years. Now, there are no madams or boatmen, but the tavern remains to welcome tourists.

Sitting at the Samgang Ferry Terminal tavern, where old stories of boating on the Nakdong River flow, enjoy a glass of Makgeolli with chive pancakes and cabbage pancakes to quench your thirst.

Right next to Samgang Tavern stand two pagoda trees over 500 years old and a 'Deuldol' (millstone). The 50kg Deuldol was used as a rite of passage for young men to be recognized as farmers and also as a tool to determine workers' wages.

After circling the moss-covered pagoda trees, leave Samgang Tavern and visit Choganjeong, the most charming pavilion in Yecheon. It was built in 1582 by Chogan Kwon Munhae, the author of Korea's first encyclopedia, Daedong Unbugunok. It is neither deep in the mountains nor shaded by long forests, but the pavilion, built on a rock overlooking the water, is irresistibly captivating.

Clear water and towering pine trees harmonize with the rock, presenting a scene like a 'painting.' For this reason, it has appeared as a major backdrop in dramas such as Hwang Jini and Mr. Sunshine. The view from inside the pavilion is less impressive than the view of the pavilion from the rock across the water.

Near Choganjeong is Geumdangsil Village. This place, which preserves the appearance of traditional Joseon Dynasty houses well, is a renowned auspicious site from the Jeonggamnok's ten scenic spots. It was even considered as a candidate site for the Joseon capital.

Along with about ten traditional houses such as Bansongjae Old House (Cultural Property No. 262) and Sagwaedang Old House (Cultural Property No. 337), the stone walls that share history are elegant. The stone walls, stacked neatly using rice straw and loess, wind through the village like a spider web.

'Geumdangsil Pine Forest' (Natural Monument No. 469) is also one of the village's attractions. The forest, called 'Geumdangsil Ssu' by locals, is a rare pine windbreak forest in inland areas.

Yecheon = Text and photos by Travel Specialist Reporter Jo Yongjun jun21@

◇Travel Notes

△Getting There=From the metropolitan area, take the Gyeongbu or Jungbu Expressway, transfer to the Jungbu Naeryuk Expressway at the Yeoju junction on the Yeongdong Expressway, exit at Jeomchon Hamchang IC, pass Nahan Intersection and Saamae Intersection, head toward Andong and Yecheon, then at Yonggung Intersection, go toward Hoeryongpo and Samgang Tavern. Choganjeong and Geumdangsil are located in Yongmun-myeon.

△Attractions=There are famous trees such as Seoksongryeong and Hwangmokgeun, which pay taxes to the country, as well as Yongmunsa Temple, Byeongamjeom sitting on a cliff, Seonmongdae, Yecheon Insect Ecology Experience Center, and Yecheon Astronomy and Science Culture Center.

△Food=Yonggung-myeon's Sundaeguk (Korean blood sausage soup) is famous. Kim Jaeduk, a gold medalist archer at the Tokyo Olympics, said it was the Sundaeguk he most wanted to eat in his hometown, increasing its popularity. There are several Sundaeguk restaurants around Yonggung Market, among which Dan-gol Restaurant is the most well-known. If you dislike Sundaeguk, you will be surprised by the taste of stir-fried squid. In Yecheon town, the 'Cheongpo House,' famous nationwide, is known for its Cheongpomuk bibimbap and various side dishes served as the Cheongpo set meal.