[Korea Root] 'Seorak' Spirit Embraced by the Sky Descending on 'Inje'

'Doltap' Harmonized 'Baekdam Valley'
'Baekdamsa' Temple Amid Seoraksan's Scenic Beauty
'Bongjeongam', One of Korea's Five Great Jeokmyeolbogung Temples

[Asia Economy Reporter La Young-cheol] Despite the strengthening of social distancing measures due to the 4th COVID-19 pandemic, domestic popular travel destinations are still crowded with people during the summer vacation season.

'Untact' (contactless) tourist spots that minimize human contact and have no risk of COVID-19 infection are attracting travelers.

In particular, Inje, Gangwon-do is a place where you can relax and cool your mind while leisurely enjoying the natural scenery of forests, rocks, and clear water. For those who want to escape from everyday life, we present 'Inje,' a hometown of healing and leisure. [Editor's note]

■ 100 Pools 'Baekdam Valley (Baektamgyegok)'

Gokbaekdam and Baekdamsa Temple [Provided by Inje-gun]

Most of the Baekdam Valley access road and the valley trail leading to the Suryeomdong shelter, which were washed away or damaged by consecutive typhoons last year, have been restored.

When inquiring about the restoration status from Inje-gun, we received a response that although some sections are still under restoration, temporary trails and safety facilities have been installed, so there is no problem enjoying the valley at all.

'Baekdam (百潭) Valley' is named because there are 100 pools (deep places where water collects).

Baekdam Valley, located in Buk-myeon, Inje-gun, Gangwon-do, is the section from Yongdae-ri to Baekdamsa Temple. There is a road for 8 km, but general vehicle traffic is prohibited except for shuttle buses.

Naeseorak, divided around the ridge connecting Daecheongbong, the highest peak of Seoraksan, and Madeungnyeong, includes valleys such as '12 Seonnyeotang,' 'Baekdam,' 'Suryeomdong,' 'Gayadong,' and 'Baegundong.'

Baekdam Valley [Provided by Inje-gun]

Among these, Baekdam Valley is wide and long like a stream. Clean bedrock and pebbles, clear water, surrounding dense forests, and gentle mountain terrain combine to create a refreshing landscape.

Baekdam Valley boasts quietness and beauty as if all the valleys of Seorak were combined. The winding deep valley seems to have shaped waterfalls and pools. No matter how hot it is, the heat quickly cools down in front of Baekdam Valley.

Naeseorak's Baekdam Valley is not only a summer destination but also the nation's top autumn foliage spot where you can see the inner beauty of fall colors. Every mid-October, the autumn leaves reach their peak.

When the heat subsides, Baekdam Valley will be busy preparing for autumn. Who could resist the temptation of Baekdam Valley dressed in autumn foliage?

■ 'The Silence of the Beloved' Writing Site 'Baekdamsa Temple (Baektamsa)'

Baekdamsa Temple View [Provided by Inje County]

Following Baekdam Valley, you will encounter Baekdamsa Temple (百潭寺) buried in the scenic beauty of Seoraksan. Named Baekdamsa because there are 100 pools from Daecheongbong to the temple. Located in the center of Baekdam Valley, Baekdamsa is an ancient temple where the traces of Manhae Han Yong-un (1879?1944) remain.

Baekdamsa is the ordination site of Manhae Han Yong-un, a monk who participated in the independence movement. In 1926, he wrote here, and in 1928, he compiled the history of Baekdamsa in . Inside Baekdamsa is the 'Manhae Memorial Hall,' and nearby is Manhae Village, established in 2003 and donated to Dongguk University.

Baekdamsa, which became more famous due to a political incident in 1987, was founded in 647 during the reign of Queen Jindeok of Silla by the monk Jajang under the name 'Hangyesa.' Despite being destroyed more than ten times, it has maintained its lineage to this day.

There is a story that to avoid fire, the head monk dreamed of an old white-haired man who told him to count the pools from Daecheongbong to the temple. The next day, they counted 100 pools, so the temple was named Baekdamsa.

For this reason, the temple's name was changed to Baekdamsa in 1455, and after another fire in 1755, it was renamed 'Simwonsa,' but in 1783 (the 7th year of King Jeongjo), it was changed back to Baekdamsa and remains so today.

Inside Baekdamsa's main hall, Geungnakbojeon, there is an Amitabha Buddha statue made in 1748. It is 87 cm tall, smaller compared to 3 to 5-meter statues made in the 17th century.

Yellow Samhoe Jang Jeogori [Provided by Inje-gun]

A dedication inscription was found on the Amitabha Buddha statue, recorded in both Chinese characters and Hangul, which is distinctive. The inscription prays for the health and longevity of King Yeongjo, his queen consort Queen Jeongsun Seo (1693?1757), and the crown prince.

The yellow triple-layered silk jacket with the 'man (卍)' character is presumed to have been used in the royal court or by someone related to the royal family. The inside of the jacket also has the names of donors written in Hangul, making it an important resource for the study of Hangul and traditional clothing of the time.

There are relics of Jajang Yulsa such as the Sodongil seat and a seven-story small jade pagoda donated to Seoljeong Daesa during the reign of King Injo, as well as hermitages like 'Yeongsiam,' 'Oseam,' and 'Bongjeongam.'

The Suryeomdong Valley, which continues upstream from Baekdam Valley, is also a beautiful valley representing Naeseorak. Large and small waterfalls and pools blend with bizarre rocks to create a spectacular view.

The hiking course from Baekdam Valley to Suryeomdong and over Madeungnyeong to Oeseorak is also excellent. If you start at dawn, you can arrive at Seorak-dong by evening, with the view of Dinosaur Ridge from Madeungnyeong being especially breathtaking.

Looking at the Baekdamsa buildings, harmonized with the scenery of Naeseorak, you feel the heavy burdens weighing on your heart lighten.

Since Baekdamsa abolished the entrance fee in 2007, you can tour the temple for free. It takes about two hours to walk from the entrance to Baekdamsa, so you can also use the shuttle bus.

■ One of the Five Great Jeokmyeolbogung 'Bongjeongam Hermitage (鳳頂庵)'

Bongjeongam [Provided by Inje-gun]

Bongjeongam is named because a phoenix disappeared into the Buddha's forehead. It is a hermitage affiliated with Baekdamsa in Naeseorak, located at Madeungnyeong, the highest point in Seoraksan (1,224 meters above sea level).

It is one of Korea's five great 'Jeokmyeolbogung' and was founded by the great monk Jajang in the 13th year of Queen Seondeok of Silla. 'Jeokmyeolbogung' refers to a hall enshrining the Buddha's true relics.

Jajang Yulsa first enshrined the Buddha's true relics and golden robe, brought from Mount Wudang in China, at Tongdosa Temple in Yangsan, Gyeongnam, and the nine-story stone pagoda of Hwangnyongsa Temple in Gyeongju, then searched for a sacred place.

On the seventh day of praying after climbing Geumgangsan, a phoenix flew over a high peak, circled, and suddenly disappeared. That spot was the Buddha's forehead. Hence, the temple was named Bongjeongam, meaning the phoenix disappeared into the Buddha's forehead.

After enshrining the relics under a rock shaped like the Buddha, a five-story pagoda was built, and the hermitage was established. Unlike ordinary halls, Jeokmyeolbogung has no Buddha statues because the relics are enshrined in the five-story stone pagoda on the mountain summit.

Seokgasari Pagoda Southwest Side [Provided by Inje-gun]

The path to Bongjeongam is like endurance training. A six-hour hike is basic, and you must hold onto ropes installed on the mountain slopes and repeat dozens of acrobatic moves.

The hardest section is the 'Kkaldak Pass,' a rocky path that anyone must climb using both hands and feet equally.

Therefore, monks descending before winter would gather firewood and side dishes in the empty hermitage before descending, and monks going to the hermitage would carry only enough food for one season on their backs to practice asceticism.

If you go 1 km further from Bongjeongam, you reach Socheongbong, and continuing on, you can reach Jungcheongbong and Daecheongbong, then descend via Osaek Mineral Spring or Cheonbuldong Valley.