[Joyongjun's Travel Journey] In the Remote Mountains, Green Light Swimming Came on a Pitch-Black Night

Journey to a Remote Village in Yeongyang, Gyeongbuk - The Sacred Place of Healing, Relaxation, and Recharging: Jukpari Birch Forest in Subimyeon, Yeongyang

Subi Village in Yeongyang, Gyeongbuk, one of the most remote areas, is the place with the clearest night sky in Korea. The "Yeongyang Firefly Ecological Park," designated as an International Dark Sky Park, allows visitors to see stars with the naked eye and encounter fireflies glowing green in the forest on summer nights.

Jukpari Birch Forest Walking Trail

The Road to the Birch Forest

Birch Forest Reflected in the Mirror

Firefly Observatory

Suha Valley

The road to Oji Omu Village, where even vehicles must turn back on foot

[Asia Economy, Cho Yong-jun, Travel Specialist] It has been a long time since our feet were stuck due to COVID-19. It is not easy to travel freely, not only abroad but also domestically. The fear of the virus is still ongoing. Therefore, contactless, drive, and car camping trips that minimize contact with people are gaining popularity. Along with this, trips to remote areas are also increasing. Some might say, "Are there remote areas in Korea?" but that is not true. There are several places in Korea where people rarely visit. It is basic that mobile phone signals do not reach, and there isn’t even a convenience store, but remote areas have a charm that warmly embraces people. They offer pristine natural scenery and even a place to rest for a night. Anyone who visits here can return with happy memories. We head to Yeongyang, Gyeongbuk, known as the most remote among remote areas. It is one of the top remote places in Korea. Among Yeongyang’s mountainous regions, Subi-myeon Jukpari is the best remote village. It has an unspoiled premium birch forest and abundant clean valleys. Is that all? Since there is no artificial lighting, the night is pitch black. The Subi-myeon area was even selected as an 'International Dark Sky Park.' You can see the Milky Way as well as the fantastic flight of fireflies. These days, when meeting people is cautious, let's escape the crowded vacation spots and head to a wonderfully remote area.

Yeongyang is a clean area preserving unspoiled nature. In short, it is clear and pure. Jukpari in Subi-myeon is the most remote among the remote areas in Yeongyang. It is a village pioneered by peddlers who settled during the Joseon Dynasty and was called Jukpa (竹坡) because of the abundance of bamboo. Hidden in Jukpari is a birch forest.

The Jukpari birch forest is an artificial forest. The Korea Forest Service began planting birch trees around Geommaksan in Jukpari in 1993. About 120,000 birch trees grow on 30.6 hectares, equivalent to 40 soccer fields. It is said to be three times larger than the birch forest in Wondae-ri, Inje, Gangwon-do.

The forest maintains pristine nature, so the path is not easy. You have to go quite far from the village. Before crossing Jangpa 1 Bridge at Jangpa Community Center, turn left, and a barrier blocks the road. From here, you must walk. Originally, you could drive to the forest entrance, but since last year, vehicle access has been restricted to protect the forest. Although it is before the official opening, it was designated as a nationally designated state-owned premium forest in June.

Walking a bit along the forest road, you reach a three-way junction branching to Gisan Village, and a signpost saying 'Birch Forest Trail' appears. It is 3.2 km to the forest entrance, which takes at least 1 hour and 30 minutes at a leisurely pace.

The path runs parallel to Jukpa Valley. Clear water flows, and the valley is deeply shaded. Even in summer, few people visit, making it a hidden cool spot to refresh from the heat. The gentle sound of water continues throughout the walk.

The path is gentle and easy to walk. Majestic trees add fragrance to the path, and birdsong accompanies you. The phone’s antenna bars gradually disappear until there is no signal. It is truly remote. It is just nature and me.

After sweating buckets, the birch forest appears welcoming. The birch forest trail is 2 km long. When you enter the path, a pure white world unfolds before your eyes. The white bark of birch trees covers the mountainside, and a cozy path opens between the green leaves overhead. The pure white trees stretch straight toward the sky, densely packed. It feels like entering a beautiful and mysterious fairy tale book. Breathing in the fresh air, you become deeply immersed in the charm of the remote area.

The accompanying forest guide shares a mirror, pen, and birch bark from their backpack and teaches a unique way to view the birch forest. First, look at the birch forest reflected in the mirror held upward. The dense birch forest fits inside the palm-sized mirror. Then, turn the mirror downward to follow the perspective of a bird looking down at the forest from the sky. You can also write messages on the bark and hang them. The birch leaf tea, prepared by the guide since the day before, has a peculiar charm.

Birch trees are said to be named because burning their branches makes a 'jajak-jajak' sound. Touching the bark feels moist and smooth like a baby’s cheek. Although winter is often considered the best season for birch forests, summer is equally beautiful. The green leaves shine brightest under the summer sun. The sound of leaves rustling in the fresh summer breeze is so refreshing. The guide recommends visiting in autumn as well. "Birch trees are among the first to change color. When the leaves turn yellow, it is very beautiful."

From the birch forest toward Suha Valley, you reach the 'International Dark Sky Park.' It has received the 'Silver Night' rating from the International Dark-Sky Association. This means it is one of the clearest night skies on land, excluding special environments like deserts.

There is almost no light pollution in this area. All lights shine low toward the ground, and streetlight brightness is significantly low. Thanks to this, you can observe the Milky Way, meteors, and other star shows in the night sky. In the middle of the Dark Sky Park is the Firefly Observatory. It is equipped with telescopes to observe not only planets in our galaxy but also distant space. You can also just lie down on the nearby grass without equipment. Researcher Park Chan at the observatory said, "Stars are most beautiful and fantastic when observed with the naked eye."

On the day of the visit, the sky was cloudy, so stars were not visible, but crossing the bridge in front of the observatory leads to another kind of star: fireflies.

As darkness falls, the beautiful colors of nature fade into monochrome. Around this time, your pupils dilate. Looking over the grayish grass, you see the flickering movements of tiny sparks of life. In the pitch-dark forest, the presence of fireflies is absolute. Fireflies have a beauty that artificial light cannot imitate. Their light green glow flickering as they fly searching for their mates is moving.

Usually, the early summer fireflies can be observed until mid-July. If you miss the early fireflies, you can look forward to the late fireflies. From mid-August to mid-September, they again turn this area into a world of green stars.

On the way back, the light green glow of fireflies brushes past your eyes. The flight of fireflies always remains as a small flame in the heart.

In front of the observatory flows Suha Valley. Even among Yeongyang’s many valleys, it is known for clear water and beautiful scenery. Although it is a mountain gorge, the water is shallow, making it perfect for summer water play. At the end of Suha Valley is Omum Village. Both people and cars must turn back here. The only way forward is the waterway. The clear water of Suha Valley winds through several bends of the mountain ridge, connecting to Wangpicheon in Uljin and flowing into the East Sea.

Yeongyang = Text and photos by Cho Yong-jun, Travel Specialist

◇ Travel Notes

△ Getting there = To visit Jukpari Birch Forest, search for Jangpa Village Community Center on your navigation system. It is a bit further inside from Jukpa Village Community Center. After passing Seonangdang, about 1 km ahead, you will find a barricade. You must park your car here and walk.

△ Travel packages = Seungwoo Travel, a specialist in remote area tours, offers a 'Cool Mid-Summer Yeongyang and Uljin 1 Night 2 Days Tour' covering remote villages in Gyeongbuk such as Yeongyang and Uljin. The tour visits Jukpari Birch Forest and Firefly Ecological Park in Yeongyang, and the Geumgang Pine Forest Trail (Sibiryung Trail) in Uljin. Departures are scheduled on the 1st and 3rd Wednesdays and Saturdays during July and August.