[Jo Yongjun's Journey] The Milky Way Bridge Illuminating the Sibiryung Road Once Crossed by Old Peddlers

Uljin Milky Way Journey - Fire Staring, Forest Staring... Tried All Kinds of Staring but 'Star Staring' Was the Best

Summer is the best season to see the Milky Way. This is because the bright center of our galaxy, where the most stars gather, rises along with the Milky Way. Standing in a mountain or valley with almost no light pollution and looking up at the night sky, you will be amazed by the countless stars. The Milky Way as seen from the Sipiryeong-ro valley.

Geumgang Pine Trees Lining Section 1 of the Geumgang Pine Forest Trail

Uljin Jukbyeon Coastal Sky Rail Opening on July 2

National Maritime Science Museum Underwater Observatory

[Asia Economy, Travel Specialist Reporter Jo Yongjun] As a child, I once lay on the wooden porch at my grandmother’s rural house, gazing up at the night sky. Countless stars shone brightly as if they were about to pour down. On one side, colorful stars streaked across the sky, creating a fantastic scene. That was the Milky Way. The Milky Way flowing between the starlight was so clear and bright. The memory of the Milky Way I saw that night holds a special place in my childhood memories. I recently recalled this memory in a remote village in Uljin, Gyeongbuk Province. Last week, I encountered the Milky Way in a valley along the famous 'Geumgang Pine Forest Trail' on the Sibiryeong Road. The Milky Way stretched like a starry bridge above Sibiryeong (Twelve Passes), where old peddlers once passed. Looking up at the sky, I couldn’t help but exclaim in awe. The sky was fully covered with stars and the Milky Way, creating a magnificent spectacle. I’m sure the number of stars I saw that night was more than all the stars I have ever seen in my life combined. The Milky Way is a phenomenon where a cluster of stars appears like clouds or a nebula. In the fairy tale 'Gyeonwoo and Jiknyeo,' it was depicted as a river separating the two lovers. Even as time passes, the Milky Way I saw lying on the porch as a child and the Milky Way I saw in the remote areas of Uljin are probably no different.

Have you ever looked at the stars in the night sky? If you live in a city with severe light pollution, it’s probably not easy. The city’s brilliance swallows the stars. The strong lights leave no darkness to reveal the stars’ twinkle. Also, living a busy life leaves little time to look up at the sky. Moreover, constantly looking down at your phone all day means you rarely get to see the stars. Even if you glance up at the sky, finding stars is not easy.

The Milky Way, the flower of the summer night sky, can be seen all year round. However, the summer Milky Way is special. This is because the bright center of our galaxy, where the most stars gather, rises with the Milky Way. It is best seen on moonless nights from June to August in places free from light interference. In spring and autumn, the Milky Way lies along the horizon, and in winter, Earth’s position on the outskirts of the galaxy makes it less visible than in summer. The summer Milky Way rises in the east and flows southward. To see the Milky Way more clearly, you need to go to places without light pollution, that is, rural areas far from the city. In summary, on a cloudless moonless night, going to a quiet countryside with few lights is the best way to meet the brightest Milky Way.

Enjoying the Milky Way in the night sky away from the city offers a unique pleasure. But where should you go? From the International Space Station, the area south of the Demilitarized Zone is a sea of lights. It’s rare to find a place dark enough to see the Milky Way among those lights. That’s why I chose a remote village along the Sibiryeong Road in Uljin.

Sibiryeong is a mountain pass connecting Ducheon-ri in Buk-myeon, Uljin, to Bonghwa County. Until the mid-1950s after the Korean War, peddlers used this path to travel between the Uljin market and Bonghwa’s Chunyang market. They passed over Jinjosan Mountain, which is 912 meters above sea level, crossed the boundary between Uljin and Bonghwa at Kkochibijae, and walked to Chunyang in Bonghwa. These peddlers, who carried seafood, traveled narrow mountain paths after the traditional Joseon peddler organizations were disbanded during the Japanese colonial period. Because their traditional carrying frames had long legs that would catch on the ground, they eventually used a modified frame called 'Bajige,' which had the legs cut off. Hence, they were called 'Bajigekkun' (Bajige carriers).

This mountain pass, soaked with the sweat of peddlers who crossed twelve mountain passes in the past, has recently become popular as a trekking trail. It is the Sibiryeong Geumgang Pine Forest Trail. The total length of the Geumgang Pine Forest Trail along Sibiryeong is 79.4 km. The trail is divided into sections 1 and 2. It starts from Ducheon 1-ri in Buk-myeon and connects to Sogwang 2-ri and Jeongok-ri in Geumgangsong-myeon. Around sections 1 and 2, five other forest trail sections branch out like leaf veins. The sections range from 5.3 km to 16.3 km in length.

The Geumgang Pine Forest Trail is not open to just anyone. It is a forest genetic resource protection area, and general public access is restricted year-round. However, it operates under a guided reservation system (usually from May to November), and the number of daily hikers is limited.

If you have reserved the trail, I recommend arriving a day early to visit the village at night. Buk-myeon has many deep valleys such as Gusugok Valley and Deokgu Valley. Countless stars shine above these valleys, and the Milky Way rises as well. Lying on a large rock in the valley and watching the Milky Way is a joy that cannot be exchanged for anything else.

The Milky Way is best seen after your eyes adjust to the darkness. At first, it may not be clear, but as time passes, the Milky Way gradually becomes more distinct. Under the star-filled night sky, you can only be amazed by the wonder. The summer Milky Way is best visible between 10 PM and 2 AM. Even in summer, mountains and rural areas can be cool, so it’s good to prepare extra clothing.

Among the trends during the COVID-19 pandemic is 'spacing out.' There is 'forest spacing out' on forest trails, 'fire spacing out' at campsites, and 'water spacing out' by valleys. I add one more: 'star spacing out' while gazing at the stars. How about taking a trip this summer to space out under the stars? Even if you don’t meet the Milky Way, you can experience the emotional impact of nature that you cannot feel in the city. If you cannot travel far, at least try looking up at the city night sky once.

Uljin = Written and photographed by Jo Yongjun, Travel Specialist Reporter jun21

◇ Travel Notes

△Getting there= From the Yeongdong Expressway Gangneung Junction, enter the highway toward Samcheok and Donghae, then take the Geundeok IC toward Uljin. At Deokgu Intersection, head toward Deokgu Hot Springs and Hadang-ri to reach Ducheon-ri Sibiryeong Old Road. Trekking requires reservation at least three days in advance.

△Attractions= The coastal sky rail at Jukbyeon Port, famous for Jukbyeon Lighthouse and Heart Beach, will open on July 2. The 'Jukbyeon Coastal Sky Rail' is a 4.8 km round-trip rail bike running over the sea, connecting Jukbyeon Port and Hujeong Beach. The rail features 60 four-person electric carts, two boarding stations (Jukbyeon and Hujeong), and two mid-stations (Heart Beach and Bongsu Port). It is designed as an experiential course that captures the Blue Road’s charm along the sea and coastal cliffs. Getting off at the mid-stations at Heart Beach or Bongsu Port offers spectacular views of the sea from above. The rail operates automatically, with a round-trip fare of 40,000 KRW for four people and 26,000 KRW for 1-2 people. Nearby is Korea’s first National Marine Science Museum, themed on marine science. Following the longest 393-meter sea walking bridge leads to an underwater observatory 6 meters deep, where you can observe Uljin’s marine ecosystem in its natural state. Admission is free. Other attractions include Wangpicheon Ecological Trail, Hupo Deungisan Park, Deokgu Hot Springs, Baegam Hot Springs, and Bulyoungsa Temple.