[Joyongjun's Journey] Quietly Walking and Silently Watching... That Alone Is Enough

A Healing Trip to Hoengseong - Walking the Lakeside Trail and Visiting a 110-Year-Old Church~

Hoengseong Hosugil shows how enjoyable walking can be. It offers short but diverse attractions such as the Pine Tree Path and the Lake Path. The observation deck is located in Section 5 of the Lake Path.

Walking along the winding lakeside trail is very enjoyable.

The area visible ahead is Section 5 of Hosugil.

Pungsuwon Cathedral Over 110 Years Old

Interior of a church with a wooden floor

[Asia Economy, Travel Specialist Reporter Jo Yong-jun] The mountain shadows of Eodapsan and the clouds in the sky flow directly into Hoengseong Lake. The waterside scenery, where freshly bloomed summer flowers sway in the wind, brings a sense of relaxation to the heart. The walking course around Hoengseong Lake, called 'Hoengseong Lake Trail,' is a path where you can enjoy such scenery. The greatest charm of the lake trail is the decalcomania-like landscape reflected on the blue water surface. The lake is not wide, so the waves are calm. Every time you turn the path that wraps around the mountain ridges like contour lines, the water shadows reflecting the mountain colors create a new scenery. The lake trail consists of six courses with a total length of 31.5 km. Among them, the recommended one is Course 5, where the dirt path, forest trail, and lake harmonize well. Surrounded by Eodapsan behind and lined with wildflowers along the water’s edge, the path offers a wonderful walking experience. It is a good place to find some comfort amid the ongoing struggles with COVID-19. There is also another place: Pungsuwon Cathedral. On days when you feel a bit suffocated in your heart, it is a space for 'letting go of your mind' and resting. Sitting with hands clasped on the cathedral floor that holds over 110 years of history, comforting and reflecting on yourself is a meaningful experience. When you are tired, exhausted, or want to leave suddenly, or when you want to give yourself comfort and healing, I visited this travel destination in Hoengseong.

Driving about 10 km from Hoengseong-eup towards Hongcheon on National Road No. 19, you reach 'Manghyang Hill' at Hoengseong Lake. Hoengseong Lake is a reservoir created by the completion of Hoengseong Dam in 1997. Around the lake, the 'Hoengseong Lake Trail' was developed. Among them, Course 5 is the most popular.

At 'Manghyang Hill,' the starting and ending point, the 'Hwaseong Old Site Exhibition Hall' holds the poignant memories of submerged residents like layers of dust. The small exhibition hall is filled with everyday items from the five villages that were submerged. Old wooden tools, spinning wheels, worn-out hair clippers, and black-and-white TVs evoke deep nostalgia, as if recalling the old hometown left behind.

Now, people gather to enjoy the lake scenery, but first, people left Hoengseong Lake. The Hoengseong Dam was built in 2000. As the reservoir filled, 938 residents from 253 households left their hometowns facing submersion. Junggeum-ri, Budong-ri, Hwajeon-ri, Gubang-ri, Podong-ri... Most of these five villages were submerged under Hoengseong Lake. The log bridge crossing the stream, the legendary Jangdok Rock, the busy rice mill, and the brewery filled with the scent of fermenting liquor?all were submerged. Like a lie, the five villages disappeared entirely.

From Manghyang Hill, I entered the lake trail. An entrance fee of 2,000 won is charged. The ticket can be used like cash in Hoengseong to purchase drinks and other items. Starting from Manghyang Hill, Course A (4.5 km) and Course B (4.5 km) connect. Walking about 1 km along Course A, you reach a pavilion where you can choose to continue Course A or branch off to Course B. Entering Course B, called Osaek Dream Trail, you encounter a straight forest of silver poplars. It is a healing spot where you can see the sparkling lake waves through the trees.

Only about 10 minutes after starting, the path presents a magnificent view where the lake, mountains, and deep blue sky blend harmoniously. The earthy scent rising gently with every step is pleasant. Passing the ridges and lakeside in turn, the changing scenery naturally draws exclamations.

The lake trail holds the 'Legend of the King.' It is said that King Taegi, the last king of Jinan, fled to Gapcheon from Silla and washed his armor in the stream. Also, when King Taegi’s son was traveling to Sindae-ri in Cheongil-myeon and had to camp overnight as night fell, a soldier made a flute from a copper pipe and played it to soothe the prince’s fatigue. Nearby Pirigol village is named after the 'Guritdae Danso' (copper pipe flute). Although it is a half-day walk along the lake, it is a path where you leave behind the grime in your heart and take with you all that is worth keeping.

Passing through Yuhyeon-ri village in Hoengseong, I came upon Pungsuwon Cathedral, which exudes an old-fashioned charm at a glance. The red brick cathedral under a large zelkova tree looks like a picture from a fairy tale but has retained its dignified elegance for over 110 years. I pushed open the cathedral door. The exterior follows Gothic style inspired by Western architecture, but inside, there are no chairs, only a wooden floor.

The cathedral is filled with comfortable darkness and silence. A few cushions lie on the floor, perhaps left by someone who just finished praying. Under soft lighting, an open 'Book of Jeremiah' on the lectern shines brightly.

Regardless of religion or personal faith, visiting an old cathedral brings a feeling of mental orderliness. It is similar to the feeling when visiting an ancient temple deep in the mountains.

Sitting on the polished wooden floor with hands clasped and eyes closed, I wondered if meditation was too much amid the scattered thoughts branching out in all directions. I wrestled for a long time with the tangled thoughts that would not settle in my darkened heart.

The history of Pungsuwon Cathedral dates back to the 1800s. While I have seen Catholic sites over 100 years old, facing a site that exceeds 200 years deeply moves the heart.

In 1801, during the first year of King Sunjo’s reign, when Catholics were persecuted in the 'Shinyu Persecution,' believers who fled persecution hid here and maintained their faith without a church building. About 60 years later, in 1866 during the Byeongin Persecution and the 1871 Shinmi Yangyo (French campaign), more believers sought refuge here.

Catholics who survived by farming and clearing fields baked tiles and carried bricks to build the current cathedral in 1907. It was the fourth cathedral built in Korea after Seoul’s Yak-hyeon Cathedral (1892), Gosan Cathedral in Jeonbuk (1896), and Myeongdong Cathedral in Seoul (1898). However, it was the first cathedral built by a Korean priest. Although over 110 years have passed since its construction, the cathedral still retains its neat and elegant appearance without any disarray.

If it feels regrettable to leave after just seeing the cathedral, it is also nice to take a walk around the hill to the left of the cathedral. There is a 'Way of the Cross' along a gentle hill called 'Rosary Hill.' If the purpose of retreat is prayer and meditation, and the cathedral is a space for prayer, this path is for meditation. On the hill, you should slow your steps as much as possible. Listen to the birdsong and insect sounds, and feel the breeze rustling through the leaves as you walk.

Hoengseong = Written and photographed by Travel Specialist Jo Yong-jun jun21@

◇Travel Notes

△Getting There=Exit at Saemal Interchange on Yeongdong Expressway, turn left towards Hoengseong, and take Local Road No. 442. At the intersection with National Road No. 6, turn right towards Yeongyeongpo, cross Chudong 1 Bridge, and immediately turn left again. Then, at Okdong Intersection, turn right towards Seoseok, Cheongil, and Gapcheon, and after driving, turn left towards Gubang-ri (Manghyang Hill) to reach Hoengseong Lake.

△Food=In Hoengseong, Korean beef (Hanwoo) is the top choice. Genuine Hoengseong Hanwoo can only be tasted at restaurants displaying the 'Hoengseong Hanwoo' logo on their signs. The Hoengseong Livestock Cooperative Hanwoo Plaza, which includes branches in Hoengseong Main, Ucheon, Saemal, and Dunnae, is the most reliable. Undongjang Haejangguk, serving 'Yangpyeong-style hangover soup,' is a favorite among locals. Anheung Steamed Buns are famous at Anheung Steamed Buns in front of the township office and Sim Sun-nyeo Anheung Steamed Buns.